Bad to. Please Help.

[miked]

so just to confirm - you've been able to get 12v on the green/yellow on the soleniod when you hit the start button, correct? if so then do the following, else reel me back in and remind me what we know.

sometimes things in electrical land get goofy. lets see if the solenoid relay is really working. try this, we're going to measure the resistance of the 12v+ cables between battery + to the starter. the starter solenoid creates this connection when you press the start button and 12v is passed thru the harness to the green/yellow connection on the solenoid.

pull the red/12v+ lead off batt

leave your ground jumper on the solenoid in place

hook a multimeter setup to read ohms (200 ohm scale maybe, not too important) between the 12v+ batt cable that you just took off, and the lug on the starter that has the cable that runs between the starter and the solenoid - we're trying to read resistance from the batt all the way to the starter via the fat cables that run through the solenoid. hope that makes sense.

the meter should show that there is no continuity, that the circuit is open.

when the green/yellow on the solenoid gets 12v on it the internal relay should close and allow a connection within the fat cables between the input from the battery and the output to the starter.

ok, here we go:

using a jumper of the same size/diameter/gauge as the wires in the wiring harness, hold the jumper on the solenoid green/yellow connection. then take the other end of the jumper and touch it to batt + (we're doing it this way so as not to have an unfused 12v hot wire hanging off your battery that could short the battery out somewhere on the frame)

if the solenoid relay is working then when you touch the jumper to the battery + terminal the multimeter should change and show continuity/0 ohms/no resistance between the fat cables from the battery + to the starter input.

[miked]

verified that the metal wrapped around the solenoid, along with the mounting bolt, all measure 0 ohms against battery neg. so the green/yellow supplying 12v+ to the solenoid works with the ground to trigger the internal solenoid relay closed in order to pass battery voltage via the red wire to the starter.

[JStones]

Back at it

Im sorry for the delay, just had a baby boy and have been very preoccupied. I'm finding more and more time out there so here is my theory. I feel like its 100% the wire/wiring from Handle to Solenoid. New Solenoid, new RH Controls. Everything checks out individually. Together equals no results. So to rewire this what do I need to do? Now that the clutch bypass is gone, theres not much to it, right?

Thoughts?

Miked- As always, thanks for the continued help.

[miked]

congrats on the new addition, I have 4 and a gaggle of grandkids so I know how a new addition impacts your free time.

measure the wire out with an ohm meter and prove your theory, should be able to go from the R control, or the bullet connector in the headlight bucket, to the green/yellow on the solenoid

did you measure ohms from the solenoid housing to battery - ??

nope, its pretty simple even with the clutch bypass. run/stop switch, into the headlight bucket onto the green/yellow, into the harness, down the harness to the solenoid, onto the green/yellow, solenoid grounded well

one wildcard here that I haven't considered is some sort of malfunctioning bypass switch on the kickstand/centerstand, might want to have a look to see if such a switch exists on the 550

you're welcome, lets get this thing solved shall we?

[JStones]

Its Fixed

Miked/All - Its finally fixed. I took the RH Controls to Orange/white, Red, G/Y connector in headlight apart. Individually connected the kill switch wires and then ran a completely new Green yellow wire from headlight to the solenoid. Pushed the button and it fired right up.

Thank you for all of your help.