Question about LED brake lights

[Flaming Chainsaws]

Who's using them? Any problems? I've heard stories of them... They say that only the running light works but the brake light does not work when you use the brakes. Make sense? So I want to hear what you guys have to say.

I want this one.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150600589573&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

[Mekanix]

Me, No problems, Makes no sense:P

Usually when you get something that is manufactured like that, there is an understanding that you need to have a low and a high function.

That's why there are 3 wires.( ground, Low, High) If it doesn't work there is something wrong with it.

Only thing i have to say is that when you hit the brake there is no delay for it to come on.

I mean its only a fraction of a second for an incandescent bulb to come on but an LED is allot quicker and you get noticed allot quicker.

Safer imo.



If you get just a plain LED light that only has two wires there is an easy way to adapt it to work with the brake to get the high and low function.

All you need is one resistor.

Hook up the resistor to the wire for the running lights and then to the LED and hook the brake wire directly to the LED.

You would have to fine tune the resistor to get the light you want on low but the high would be always high when you hit the brake/

[tom203]

Who's using them? Any problems? I've heard stories of them... They say that only the running light works but the brake light does not work when you use the brakes. Make sense? So I want to hear what you guys have to say.

I want this one.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT

Just seperate the functions and it's no problem with running and brake lights- however, throw in turn signals and the fun begins!

[cal_look_zero]

I'm working on an idea for a direct replacement brake light that will allow for running and brake lights entirely with LEDs. Instead of messing with resistance through 1 set of LEDs, I plan to run 2 different intensity LEDs and wire them separately so that your running lights are easily visible and a second set of LEDs come on at "OMG IT BURNS!!!" brightness when the brake is applied.

I've been almost hit a few times at stop lights/signs, so I'm a big proponent for very very obvious brake lights and turn signals.

[pete]

Subscribing to this to see what happens... I'm eyeing off this one for my brake/tail light and intend to run separate LED indicators:

http://www.thirdgear.com.au/products/Red-Motorcycle-LED-Tail-Light-%252d--Fender-Eliminator.html

[tom203]

I'm working on an idea for a direct replacement brake light that will allow for running and brake lights entirely with LEDs. Instead of messing with resistance through 1 set of LEDs, I plan to run 2 different intensity LEDs and wire them separately so that your running lights are easily visible and a second set of LEDs come on at "OMG IT BURNS!!!" brightness when the brake is applied.

I've been almost hit a few times at stop lights/signs, so I'm a big proponent for very very obvious brake lights and turn signals.

I agree- make it real obvious that you're braking; I just added a strip of red LED's at bottom of license plate to boost awareness.

[Flaming Chainsaws]

Subscribing to this to see what happens... I'm eyeing off this one for my brake/tail light and intend to run separate LED indicators:

http://www.thirdgear.com.au/products...liminator.html

YES! I've been looking for the red lens one on eBay but no luck.

But now here's another question. I have LED lights right now and the brake lights don't work. I hooked it up correctly and everything. Only the running lights work.

This one. I even tried hooking up only one of these LEDs but still no brake light. Only running light.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Motorcycle-Brake-Turn-Signal-LED-Lights-Harley-ATV-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3cb7ad44ffQQitemZ260779623679QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

[pete]

First off, have you tested it off the bike?

Going by the pic's in that auction you should be able to ground the black wire, and put 12v to the red wire for your tail light and 12v to the yellow wire for the brake light. You should be able to connect 12v to both of them at the same time.

If that works ok, then it's probably the brake light switches.

The front brake light switch is notoriously dodgy, so check that out thoroughly, and I had some dramas adjusting my rear brake light switch years ago that almost made me fail my license test because it wasn't turning on properly.

[Steve]

If you get just a plain LED light that only has two wires there is an easy way to adapt it to work with the brake to get the high and low function.

All you need is one resistor.

Hook up the resistor to the wire for the running lights and then to the LED and hook the brake wire directly to the LED.

You would have to fine tune the resistor to get the light you want on low but the high would be always high when you hit the brake/

Not quite true, you also need a couple of diodes so the brake power dies not back-feed through the marker lights and vice versa.

I'm working on an idea for a direct replacement brake light that will allow for running and brake lights entirely with LEDs.

I am working on the same idea, but my work schedule taking me away from home for months at a time has put a damper on working on it.
Starting with the "L" style lights, then the "G" style lights, I also have a pattern for the 750 and 1100E for '80 and '81.

.

[Mekanix]

Not quite true, you also need a couple of diodes so the brake power dies not back-feed through the marker lights and vice versa.

What do you mean ?

I don't think i missed anything but I'm curious. so please do tell


I made my suggestion with these thoughts in mind.

• Flaming chainsaw's bike is a 1980 gs450L
• it has a simple 3 wire brake/running light
• Signal lights are separate from the brake/running light circuit
• a 3 wire LED light should be a direct swap if the unit was designed with a high/low function. which is what you would expect

The reason I didn't include instructions for using a diode is because in this particular case I don't see why it would be needed,
"although my original though was to include a diode before the resistor on the running light line to avoid the back-feeding issue." then i thought, what could it backfeed to ?

In this case isn't there nothing to back-feed to?

[Steve]

In this case, it might not make much difference, as the tail light is always on and there is only one brake light in the circuit.

If the lights could be turned off (earlier bike, or a car, for example), without the diodes, if you hit the brake, ALL the marker lights would come on, too. If the vehicle had cruise control that is cancelled by applying the brakes, turning on the tail lights would also energize the brake circuit enough to disable the cruise control.

LIke I said, in this case, you will probably get away with it, but I design for a wider audience.

.

[Mekanix]

Ah that makes sense. I thought I read somewhere that the light switch was removed on this bike. FC ?

But yeah I agree 100% with you Steve.

[Flaming Chainsaws]

I don't have a front brake light switch. Mine's broke. I have been thinking about the hydraulic switch though... However, my rear brake was working just fine back in December 2010. Think it broke? I will test it out tomorrow.

[Mekanix]

Here's the bulb i went with that just replaced the stock brake light with the same intensity and much quicker response.

1157

http://cgi.ebay.ca/2x-1157-RED-36-LED-TURN-SIGNAL-BRAKE-CAR-LIGHTS-BULBS-U-/180406109863?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a010ac6a7

And the 1156 turn signals

http://cgi.ebay.ca/2x-1156-AMBER-36-LED-INDICATOR-SIGNAL-CAR-LIGHTS-BULB-K-/170376878846?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item27ab40dafe

Think it broke?

Could be that the LED's don't take enough current to break through some corrosion or arcing on the brake switch contacts where the old light took about 2 amps ( 23w/13.5v) and it would break through anything on the contacts inside the switch.

Just a thought, but your testing will tell.

[DanTheMan]

I put standard trailer led lights in my trunk. The low function serves as running lights, the high function as brake lights. It's worked fine for me, no problems. Anybody behind me that can't see me put on the brakes is legally blind. I also added two more turn signal lights on top of my saddle bags. They're leds as well. Since the other turn signal lights are the standard incandescent lights there's no problem with resistance.