quick starter relay question

[46hand]

You may have already looked at this, but based on some of the symptoms listed, I'd look at the main termination from the battery (-). Mine was holding on by just a couple strands while I was troubleshooting the electricals, right after going for a very short ride. I replaced the old solenoid, heard a "click" but got no rotation, got smoke, had odd voltages, all kinds of craziness. When I gently pulled the (-) cable to inspect its termination point, it actually came off the bike! Replaced, landed and now everything seems to be working properly (though I have yet to do the stator papers! This weekend). And I would say that, if you find it to be in any kind of "not-so-great" shape, replace it with an oversized cable from sears for $4. Worth the investment. A crappy (-) will cause lots and lots of other problems.

[cableguy]

I found an auto electric shop who will put the armature on the growler for comprehensive testing, then I'll know beyond a doubt where I stand before I put it back together.

Is it worth the $20 or is checking the resistance values enough to know it's good? I got 0 resistance between each of the adjacent brush surfaces as well as the field (?) surfaces, and infinite when I put one lead on the brush contact surface and the other on the main shaft of the armature.

[2BRacing]

Just testing resistance values should be good enough to test the armature (this is procedure used in workshop manual - it says: "check the armature for short circuit by putting one lead on the rotor core and the other lead on each segment of the copper commutator in turn. Test for open circuit by placing the leads on any two segments. The brushes must not be on the commutator for these tests). If you do not already have a manual for your bike, refer to one on BassCliff's site - the principle is the same for all sizes. These tests are described under "Starter System" of the Electrical System.

However, the "really burnt smell" you noticed when taking the starter apart could be from the field coils (in the casing of the starter motor). The manual does not show tests for the field coils. Maybe someone on here can indicate how to do that test, before you go to the auto electric shop, because I don't think the growler test (of only the armature) will give you the full picture (i.e. state of field coils), unless they can test the whole unit for you.

[cableguy]

I did test the armature and commutator and they passed. I took it the auto electric place anyway, because they are able to check the field coils, and for the fact that it smells burnt. Worth $20 to know where it stands. BTW everything tested OK.

[2BRacing]

Great to hear starter tests OK. Burnt smell probably from some overheating due to all those bad connections. Now that you have worked through the whole electrical system, you are ready to see how she runs!

[cableguy]

That would be true, but I've expanded my project a tad to include swapping in the Ducati spring I got a while back, and performing a nitpick cleaning so when I put it all back together It can stay together for a while.

[chuckycheese]

Getting it figured out

I think you are now well on your way to getting it figured out. Do you still think you had a bad solenoid???

[cableguy]

haha I wondered if you would ask that....I haven't put it back together yet. I realized that this is the perfect time to really clean everything, and while the battery box is out clean that up and paint it, clean and degrease everything, change the rear spring, then reassemble and test. While the tank is off I may fix the dent and repaint it, The bug kind of bit me to get as much done in one shot as possible. Don't worry, if the old solenoid is good I'll admit it. Actually I'll use it, because my tester from Lowe's sticks out a little too far and I don't want the side cover to crack.