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    #16
    Originally posted by 46hand View Post
    posplayer,
    Thanks for pointing me there. So, I can move the harness ground to a post on the r-r mount, and I can also take the battery negative to the same place. Will do.

    Re: the r-r diode checks I asked about, as well alternator checks, do those numbers say anything about what I have going on? I am not sure whether I'll be able to run it, or maybe I just need to reland all my connections and try to start her up again?

    Thanks for all the help.
    All current sourced by the R/R(+) has to come back to the R/R(-) so
    • battery (charging current return)
    • frame (frame returns like blinkers)
    • and B/W (harness)
    all need to get to R/R(-).

    Get everything wired as it should and do a Quick_Test to see where you are. Then it it looks OK dive into the detailed Phase A part of the revised stator pages.
    Last edited by posplayr; 06-05-2011, 06:56 PM.

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      #17
      Okay. So I brought the harness grounds and the r-r ground to the r-r mount, but left the battery (-) at the original termination (on the block) (after I found it finally). I tried to turn her over with the newer solenoid, got contact and she krunk. Then she didn't. I changed to yet another new solenoid, only to find she wouldn't crank. However, I heard clicking... I decided, somewhat (somewhat) randomly, to remove aux fuses, like the headlamp fuse or signals. CRAZY! Upon removal of the headlamp fuse, I got the proper voltage across my solenoid and it cranked like it was '81!! Came in to post, saw the last reply to this thread, and decided to move the (-) battery termination to the r-r. Now it cranks slowly, plus I saw smoke come out of my instrument cluster.

      WTF?!?!!?? Any hints/ clues would surely be appreciated. I had to call it a night after all that, but I'll be back at it tomorrow afternoon.

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        #18
        I hope you are not moving the primary ground from battery (-) to engine. This is to battery current return when cranking the starter.

        smoke is bad ; recheck your connections and use an ohm meter to look for shorts.

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          #19
          Done it!!

          So I relanded the negative battery cable to its original termination, and with a charged battery turned her over without lamp/signal fuses, with success (no smoke!!). Checked all my voltages with her off, then tried to go ahead and start her up. Did the quick check and passed, took her out for 5 miles and fueled up, came back and did the quick check again and passed. So I'm like, "Let's do this!!!", so I went on an exhilarating 45 mile shakedown cruise. Came back, checked everything, and we are done here!

          Thanks so much!!!

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            #20
            Originally posted by 46hand View Post
            So I relanded the negative battery cable to its original termination, and with a charged battery turned her over without lamp/signal fuses, with success (no smoke!!). Checked all my voltages with her off, then tried to go ahead and start her up. Did the quick check and passed, took her out for 5 miles and fueled up, came back and did the quick check again and passed. So I'm like, "Let's do this!!!", so I went on an exhilarating 45 mile shakedown cruise. Came back, checked everything, and we are done here!

            Thanks so much!!!
            quick test is not a final test ; I guess it is better than crying in your beer

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