Bike runs but no readings from coil

[Steve]

Sounds like you have NO PROBLEMS. Put it back together and RIDE IT.

.

[mike_of_bbg]

Got some new leads for the meter, got a reading of 4 ohms on the primary side. My caps tested to 5k ohms each and the coils without the caps tested at 15k ohms. If im understanding this thats only 25k ohms.

As noted, the coil itself is only about 15k ohms of the secondary impedance. In stock form, the caps are ~10k each or 35k total. With 5k caps (which are no problem), you're only going to be at 25k. Listen to Steve and ride!

[smarzinski]

As noted, the coil itself is only about 15k ohms of the secondary impedance. In stock form, the caps are ~10k each or 35k total. With 5k caps (which are no problem), you're only going to be at 25k. Listen to Steve and ride!

Ok, coils are going back on. Still have the sputtering though....Carb related? Also, just realized my whole train of thought was bass acwards. Sorry for the stupid questions.

[mike_of_bbg]

Ok, coils are going back on. Still have the sputtering though....Carb related?

Might be; that would be my guess. While you're checking out the ignition though - have you checked your voltage at the coils? Checked your charging system health? It's sputtering at speed or only at idle? Are you stock and leak-free at the airbox and exhaust?

[smarzinski]

Might be; that would be my guess. While you're checking out the ignition though - have you checked your voltage at the coils? Checked your charging system health? It's sputtering at speed or only at idle? Are you stock and leak-free at the airbox and exhaust?

Checked the charging system when I replaced the R/R a couple months ago. Adjusted the valves, carbs were cleaned and synced, airbox was sealed. It sputters when I hold a steady speed, doesnt matter what speed. If I open up the throttle everything seems fine, but when I get back to speed it starts sputtering again. gotta run out and check the voltage at the coils this afternoon...

[smarzinski]

11.7 volts at the coils, BUT, I noticed when I started the bike up after connecting everything that my stator wires were hotter then hell again. I disconnected the 3 yellow wires under the tank and tried taking a reading on them and got no reading (ohms). Back to the beginning I go!

[tom203]

11.7 volts at the coils, BUT, I noticed when I started the bike up after connecting everything that my stator wires were hotter then hell again. I disconnected the 3 yellow wires under the tank and tried taking a reading on them and got no reading (ohms). Back to the beginning I go!

I'm a late arrival to this, but hot stator wires are bad news. You have three yellow wires from stator under tank? Seems strange, as this is not a direct route to R/R unless someone as altered wiring. You said you replaced your R/R- with what? Yes, redo stator tests again and report readings. Your multimeter needs to be able to read 1 ohm resistances to measure between stator leads- some meters won't.

[smarzinski]

I'm a late arrival to this, but hot stator wires are bad news. You have three yellow wires from stator under tank? Seems strange, as this is not a direct route to R/R unless someone as altered wiring. You said you replaced your R/R- with what? Yes, redo stator tests again and report readings. Your multimeter needs to be able to read 1 ohm resistances to measure between stator leads- some meters won't.

Im using a R/R off of a 2004 Honda CBR1000. its a five wire. The multi meter doesnt even twitch when I connect the stator wires to it. I measured an old spark plug cap I had laying around and got 5.4 ohms, tried the stator again and nothing. My multi meter, according to the manual, should read down to .01k ohms. heres a link to what i have if your interested. theres a link to the owners manual under the picture too, page 8 is where I got the info from.

EDIT: I removed a bunch of wire that was damaged, including a couple inches of good wire to make sure when my r/r went out. I soldered everything back together and shrink tubed it all too.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_03482312000P

[Steve]

. My multi meter, according to the manual, should read down to .01k ohms. heres a link to what i have if your interested. theres a link to the owners manual under the picture too, page 8 is where I got the info from.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_03482312000P

Dude, you need to learn to read a specification page and your meter.

Your meter will read down to 0.1 ohms, not .01k (that's actually 10) ohms. That's right, ONE-TENTH of an ohm, not TEN ohms.

Put the selector in the 200 ohm range (that's the one at the very bottom), read your value directly for your stator wire resistances.

To test your secondaries on the coils, move the selector to the 200k ohm position (that's about the 8 o'clock position).

To check the diodes in the rectifier, move your selector wheel to the diode test function, which is the one in its own little section at the 5 o'clock position.

For stator voltage checks, use the 200 Vac position.

For other voltage checks, use the 20 Vdc position.

.

[smarzinski]

Thanks Steve. Never had one before and never worked with one. Electric/electronics are not my thing.

[smarzinski]

Ready to give up. Had nothing but problems with this engine for the last 2 years. Going to look at a gsxr750 engine tomorrow. Maybe if its good ill just do a transplant....

[mike_of_bbg]

There's got to be somebody not too far from you who could offer some help. That you're mostly having issues with cylinder #4 tells me you probably have a carb issue.

[smarzinski]

Bought the GSXR engine. 18,xxx miles, no problems with it, frame was chopped up by P.O. Got the engine full muzzy exhaust, wiring, coils, cdi for 400 bucks! Anyone need a spare 16v 750????

p.s. took my exhaust off last night and found 3 holes in the headpipe. Very likely that coulda been my problem....