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    Electrically Dead

    Still recovering from a cycle accident May a year ago. Got the '78 GS750 out today for the first time this year. Since I completed the restoration ~2 years ago, all electrics worked just as they should. Put in the freshly charged battery today, turned the key and nothing. No lights, horn, starter, etc. Battery is giving 12.7 v at rest. Checked the fuse - 12.7 V on both ends of the fused holder.

    This pretty much exhausts my electrical trouble-shooting skills. Hoping I can get some step-by-step advice on how I can identify the problem.

    Thanks,
    rickt

    #2
    Wiggle the fuses.
    Maybe one is bad but only looks good.
    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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      #3
      More information

      Finally got back to trouble-shooting the electrical problem. Got into the headlight shell and am getting 12.7 v in the red wire running from the positive battery terminal. So, it would appear the wiring is ok from the battery to the headlight shell. When I connect the four-prong plug containing the red wire to the ignition switch plug and the switch is turned "on," I should get 12 v coming from the orange ignition switch wire. When I checked the orange wire (at the horn), I see less than 1 v.

      Does this result indicate that the ignition switch is the failure point?

      If so, can the switch be replaced keeping the original key code?

      Thanks

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        #4
        The switch is under the key tumbler assembly. I believe they do come apart for maintenance.
        '78 GS1000E, Dyna-S ignition, Dyna Green Coils, K&N pods, Delkevic SS 4-1 exhaust, Dynojet Stage 3 jet kit, Russell SS Brake Lines, Progressive suspension, Compu-Fire series Regulator 55402 and Advmonster cree LED headlight conversion.

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          #5
          Simple Solution

          I failed to check the obvious. Although the resting battery showed 12.7v on the voltmeter and the same voltage was observed in the headlight shell, the battery was essentially "dead." It provided a constant green light on the battery tender, but when placed under load, it was hopelessly dead. Simply replacing with a different battery produced a quick reliable start!

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