Higher amp output stator

[gsryder]

Is there any other options for a higher out put stator?

I have been searching and see tons of posts on factory replacement.....but I need something in the vicinity of 30 amps.

I did see a few mentions of having one custom wound to give more amperage but did not see any answers or results.

has anyone done this, or are there any other options???

oops almost forgot 1981 GS1100

[tom203]

Is there any other options for a higher out put stator?

I have been searching and see tons of posts on factory replacement.....but I need something in the vicinity of 30 amps.

I did see a few mentions of having one custom wound to give more amperage but did not see any answers or results.

has anyone done this, or are there any other options???

oops almost forgot 1981 GS1100

So you want to double the output of this charging system? How do you intend to keep it cool? The standard system is marginal,as lots of us have found out. You need lots of wire to get decent output at low rpms. Do you need this extra power all the time or just in bursts?

[OldVet66]

You can get 20% more, but I would only do it if you have replaced your R/R with a good modern Unit, and I don't think I would go with a R/R From Electrosport. http://www.electrosport.com/street-b...se-suzuki.html

[koolaid_kid]

You can get 20% more, but I would only do it if you have replaced your R/R with a good modern Unit, and I don't think I would go with a R/R From Electrosport. http://www.electrosport.com/street-b...se-suzuki.html

Can you explain why not please?

[OldVet66]

There are better replacement R/R's out there. I have read a lot of negative comments on the Electrosport R/R. It seems they have nice stators.

[gsryder]

I would need the power all the time.
I am currently running a Honda R/R that I got from dunage.
My current problem is that I am running a electric fuel pump to supply fuel for the turbo application.
4.58 amps - 55W headlight
1 amp or less tail / brake light (LEDs)
5.4 amps electric fuel pump
8 amps +/- coils
And I am using A123 systems lithium-ion battery pack which takes a little more amperage to charge then a regular lead acid battery.

Currently I can either turn on my headlight.....or charge my battery.

Which isnt all that bad for day riding but I would like to be able ride at night and charge the battery.

I am also currently looking for a less amp draw fuel pump and head light......but if I could up grade the stator as well.....then I think all would be good

[posplayr]

There are better replacement R/R's out there. I have read a lot of negative comments on the Electrosport R/R. It seems they have nice stators.

I very much like the build quality of the electrosport stators as well, HOWEVER there is really nothing compelling about the SHUNT Electrosport R/R though; it certainly is not "the solution".

It is better than the early single SCR R/R's that only regulated one leg but that is nothing much to brag about these days. The SERIES R/R is the cats meow today and is a hands down choice over any SHUNT assuming you can afford it.

[koolaid_kid]

Good. The OP deserves more than "avoid this" so they can justify going to another source.
The FET Honda regulators also have a devoted following; anything is better than the OEM R/Rs, to be sure.

[koolaid_kid]

I would need the power all the time.
I am currently running a Honda R/R that I got from dunage.
My current problem is that I am running a electric fuel pump to supply fuel for the turbo application.
4.58 amps - 55W headlight
1 amp or less tail / brake light (LEDs)
5.4 amps electric fuel pump
8 amps +/- coils
And I am using A123 systems lithium-ion battery pack which takes a little more amperage to charge then a regular lead acid battery.

Currently I can either turn on my headlight.....or charge my battery.

Which isnt all that bad for day riding but I would like to be able ride at night and charge the battery.

I am also currently looking for a less amp draw fuel pump and head light......but if I could up grade the stator as well.....then I think all would be good

Since your battery pack is also an increased current draw, would you consider changing that out as well? And I will never go back to a standard lead/acid battery; AGM is a clear winner IMHO.
Your charging system was rated at 230 watts in 1980 ( http://www.cbxclub.com/davespage/mcy80-11.html ) so a theoretical 20% increase would yield an additional 46 watts, or ~ 4 amps at a nominal 12 volts. Some are also experimenting with LED turn signal bulbs as well to decrease current draw.

[gsryder]

Since your battery pack is also an increased current draw, would you consider changing that out as well? And I will never go back to a standard lead/acid battery; AGM is a clear winner IMHO.
Your charging system was rated at 230 watts in 1980 ( http://www.cbxclub.com/davespage/mcy80-11.html ) so a theoretical 20% increase would yield an additional 46 watts, or ~ 4 amps at a nominal 12 volts. Some are also experimenting with LED turn signal bulbs as well to decrease current draw.

I have created multiple obstacles for myself with this build the battery choice was one for weight and size, but mostly just because there was no room for a larger battery

The A123 system battery pack is about the size of my fist and weighs less then 2lbs.
Another 4amps on the stator and if can reduce my headlight draw might put me right where I need to be....but with no room for anything else.

Oh, and I have to turn signals horn or anything that doesnt just make it run.


I am also trying to find a fuel pump that will deliver at least 20 psi with lower amp draw but not finding anything yet

[posplayr]

You are asking for 30 amps which is nearly twice the rated load???? If you have 8 amps per coil, that is 16 amps total for both? Otherwise I would have you at 19 amps with only one 8 amp load.

Go talk to Katman, he is going this right now but I woudl suggest the most you are going to get out of a GS (in terms of power and weight efficency) is

20% boosted Electrosport Stator
Compufire SERIES R/R
Lithium Battery

If you are using a Dyna 2000, with 2.2 ohms coils I would put some 3 ohm in it which will help your budget significantly

My mostly stock bike with 3 ohms coils uses about 14 amps. Putting a 5 amp pump into the mix should be tolerable once up and going.

[posplayr]

I have created multiple obstacles for myself with this build the battery choice was one for weight and size, but mostly just because there was no room for a larger batteryI am also trying to find a fuel pump that will deliver at least 20 psi with lower amp draw but not finding anything yet

Just so you know the maximum power you can get out of the system will be limited by the rotor magnetic and the associated iron core paths. So you are not likely to change that short of bonding new magnets into the rotor. So improving the delivered power by reducing wasted power in the best you can do.

The 20% increase in the Electrosport stator (hopefully they mean they increase the wire size) this at best before you reach maximum power output so you will probably only really notice it at 2000-3000 at best.

The SERIES R/R is the most efficient when conducting as it is fully synchronous rectification using FETs. The FET SHUNT R/R's (e.g. FHA0012) still have a 1/2 a Full Wave bridge and the older ones like 6 wire Honda and OE have will have full wave rectifier bridges so you have at least 30 watts of power that could be used in your system comparing a OE v.s. SERIES R/R.

[koolaid_kid]

Electrically I don't see how the coils could draw 8 amps each. Ohms Law states I = V / R; 12 volts (nominal) / 3 Ohms = 4 Amps, or 8 Amps for the pair.
Or am I missing something? Wouldn't be the first time.

[gsryder]

You are asking for 30 amps which is nearly twice the rated load???? If you have 8 amps per coil, that is 16 amps total for both? Otherwise I would have you at 19 amps with only one 8 amp load.

Go talk to Katman, he is going this right now but I woudl suggest the most you are going to get out of a GS (in terms of power and weight efficency) is

20% boosted Electrosport Stator
Compufire SERIES R/R
Lithium Battery

If you are using a Dyna 2000, with 2.2 ohms coils I would put some 3 ohm in it which will help your budget significantly

My mostly stock bike with 3 ohms coils uses about 14 amps. Putting a 5 amp pump into the mix should be tolerable once up and going.

Sorry I meant 8 amps total both coils (stock coils) at least that was the data I could find on them. Everything else on the ignition system is stock except for the R/R (from Dunage) So yes with adding in the fuel pump I am at 19ish and it is not allowing my battery to charge.....if while running the head light.

I can do either or....charge the battery....or turn on the headlight.

I am trying to follow what you are saying on the R/Rs I have one from Dunage I bought through this site I believe it is a old Honda unit.....are you saying these are good or there are better ones....the "series R/R"????

I apologize...... I understand what the R/R does but not how....or what is better or worse.

[gsryder]

never mind POS I just found your thread on the compufire R/R....reading now.

thanks again