Higher amp output stator

[gsryder]

I see it makes some sense now after reading your other thread POS.

Would I be able to get away with the electrosport stator and the Honda R/R from Duaneage (just realized I was spelling it wrong) or would that be a bad idea.

I understand the compufire series R/R is better but it may be a few more weeks before I could get it.

Bad idea or just not the best idea??

[OldVet66]

The Compufire and AGM battery was one of the last modifications I made to my bike. To say that it transformed the bike would be an understatement. Everything works better. I can't give you statistics, but from an everyday riding experience I can tell you it was the best investment I have made on this bike. I think the Compufire is the only way to go.

[posplayr]

I see it makes some sense now after reading your other thread POS.

Would I be able to get away with the electrosport stator and the Honda R/R from Duaneage (just realized I was spelling it wrong) or would that be a bad idea.

I understand the compufire series R/R is better but it may be a few more weeks before I could get it.

Bad idea or just not the best idea??

look at the 3rd page of this link. The Stator is capable of the equivalent of 27 amps; with the SERIES the current is the total to the load.

I'm not sure why you are not charging. You should be able to put a 5 amp load on there and still charge. 27 amps would be max. These measurements were on my GS1100ED.

have you looked at the stator pages ? You probably are not changing well.

http://www.posplayr.100megsfree3.com/FH012AA_Charging/RR_Tutorial.pdf

[Graham]

I would need the power all the time.
I am currently running a Honda R/R that I got from dunage.
My current problem is that I am running a electric fuel pump to supply fuel for the turbo application.
4.58 amps - 55W headlight
1 amp or less tail / brake light (LEDs)
5.4 amps electric fuel pump
8 amps +/- coils
And I am using A123 systems lithium-ion battery pack which takes a little more amperage to charge then a regular lead acid battery.

Currently I can either turn on my headlight.....or charge my battery.

Which isnt all that bad for day riding but I would like to be able ride at night and charge the battery.

I am also currently looking for a less amp draw fuel pump and head light......but if I could up grade the stator as well.....then I think all would be good

Why can’t you just run vacuum fuel pumps and save the charging issues? The bike appears to have carbs.

[koolaid_kid]

Why can’t you just run vacuum fuel pumps and save the charging issues? The bike appears to have carbs.

He is going to run a turbo. A turbo app requires a pressurized fuel system.

[gsryder]

look at the 3rd page of this link. The Stator is capable of the equivalent of 27 amps; with the SERIES the current is the total to the load.

I'm not sure why you are not charging. You should be able to put a 5 amp load on there and still charge. 27 amps would be max. These measurements were on my GS1100ED.

have you looked at the stator pages ? You probably are not changing well.

http://www.posplayr.100megsfree3.com...R_Tutorial.pdf

I did a check of everything when I was rebuidling the engine and when I made the new wiring harness.....however that doesnt mean something hasnt happened since then......I will give everything a double check.

I thought the GS stators where only good for 20 amps? You were getting 27 amps? Now I am confused if it will generate 27 amps then I dont need a aftermarket stator???? Just a good OEM one.

[gsryder]

He is going to run a turbo. A turbo app requires a pressurized fuel system.

Not "going to run".....am running!!!!

[koolaid_kid]

Not "going to run".....am running!!!!

I stand corrected.

...I thought the GS stators where only good for 20 amps? You were getting 27 amps? Now I am confused if it will generate 27 amps then I dont need a aftermarket stator???? Just a good OEM one.

With a system like yours I strongly suggest that you maximize your current-generating capabilities. We both know what happens if your fuel pump fails during boost. It is not pretty.
I would get the Electrosport stator now, and a series R/R as soon as you can. One note: do you have the real estate (available room) for a larger R/R? The ones I have seen pictures of and dimensions of are considerably larger than stock. Posplyr will have more data on that, he has led the way on promoting, evaluating and reporting on series R/Rs.

[gsryder]

I stand corrected.

With a system like yours I strongly suggest that you maximize your current-generating capabilities. We both know what happens if your fuel pump fails during boost. It is not pretty.
I would get the Electrosport stator now, and a series R/R as soon as you can. One note: do you have the real estate (available room) for a larger R/R? The ones I have seen pictures of and dimensions of are considerably larger than stock. Posplyr will have more data on that, he has led the way on promoting, evaluating and reporting on series R/Rs.

Okay, yeah, thats what I was thinking, but I was a little thrown off by that graph showing 27 amps.....as far as room....there is no room for anything....but I keep bolting and welding stuff on there

[OldVet66]

The Compufire is not all that big it could easily be mounted on a removable plate near the side view of your turbo, or on the other side. There was enough room in the stock position on my GS1000E, and posplayr modified a corner on the bottom of his for what I took for the stock position on his bike.

[bakalorz]

I would need the power all the time.
I am currently running a Honda R/R that I got from dunage.
My current problem is that I am running a electric fuel pump to supply fuel for the turbo application.
4.58 amps - 55W headlight
1 amp or less tail / brake light (LEDs)
5.4 amps electric fuel pump
8 amps +/- coils
And I am using A123 systems lithium-ion battery pack which takes a little more amperage to charge then a regular lead acid battery.

Currently I can either turn on my headlight.....or charge my battery.

Which isnt all that bad for day riding but I would like to be able ride at night and charge the battery.

I am also currently looking for a less amp draw fuel pump and head light......but if I could up grade the stator as well.....then I think all would be good

FWIW, HID headlights are nominally 35 watts, which would save you a bit af current

[gsryder]

FWIW, HID headlights are nominally 35 watts, which would save you a bit af current

I have been looking into this, HID can draw allot of amps on start up but then after the bulb is hot or lit or whatever they will drop down to less than 4 amps.

Just not sure about the spike when you first turn it on. I need to start looking into brand specific ones and seeing performance, I have read some can spike up to 15-18 amps!!!!!!

[Graham]

He is going to run a turbo. A turbo app requires a pressurized fuel system.

Yea forgot.