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TheCafeKid
Time to check your grounds then. I ran into a similar problem on a bike I worked on recently (650G). Couldn't get it to charge over 12.9. All connectors were new. Good stator good regulator. Fresh. On a whim I moved the RR ground from where it was stock (which I had cleaned) to a different spot and suddenly it charged at 14.0. Can't tell ya why or what but something to check.
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Originally posted by TheCafeKid View PostTime to check your grounds then. I ran into a similar problem on a bike I worked on recently (650G). Couldn't get it to charge over 12.9. All connectors were new. Good stator good regulator. Fresh. On a whim I moved the RR ground from where it was stock (which I had cleaned) to a different spot and suddenly it charged at 14.0. Can't tell ya why or what but something to check.
It is important to be well grounded , but he is failing the stator leg togroundntestt with R/R disconnected and not charging.
Jim
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atone
To recap:all three stator wires directly wired to regulator, single point ground system as described in stator papers, reg+ directly to battery+. Will check all the ends of the grounds again. The wiring harness is two years old (as was all electrical components). What is still getting me is the 50vac at 5k to ground on each stator leg yet it is putting out over 90vac into the dummy load as described in the revised stator papers. The only small clue i have to go on right now is that the charge voltage reaches 14v with the headlight fuse removed (before you go there i have also tried a different fuse box!)
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atone
if i could measure the current out of the reg+ to the battery what should i expect to see with a charged battery and the lights on?
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Originally posted by atone View PostTo recap:all three stator wires directly wired to regulator, single point ground system as described in stator papers, reg+ directly to battery+. Will check all the ends of the grounds again. The wiring harness is two years old (as was all electrical components). What is still getting me is the 50vac at 5k to ground on each stator leg yet it is putting out over 90vac into the dummy load as described in the revised stator papers. The only small clue i have to go on right now is that the charge voltage reaches 14v with the headlight fuse removed (before you go there i have also tried a different fuse box!)
I dont undertsand why the light fuse makes any difference unless you re overloading the charging system, which may be the case since you have limited output with your shorting stator.
Have you tried to buss out the stator (ohm meter?)to see if you can find where it is shorting?
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Originally posted by atone View Postif i could measure the current out of the reg+ to the battery what should i expect to see with a charged battery and the lights on?
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atone
For the dummy load i am using 10 ohm/ 50w mounted on a aluminum heatsink-gets very hot after a few minutes so that tell me there is good current output from the stator.
I don't think the light circuit has anything to do with it as well other than reducing the load on the charging circuit when the fuse is out (it draws an extra 5.6 amps from the system on my bike). Something is marginal, just what is the question. As far as the stator being shorted: My first stator (2 year old electrosport) measure the 50vac to ground at 5K so i replaced it with a new electrosport. It also measured 50vac at 5k to ground. Very unlikely two would measure the same but i had no other ideas- put in an original oem stator from a runing bike- same thing! Literally have had the stator cover off 20 times look for anywhere that is pinching wires, can't find anything.
I am not familiar with the term "buss out"? I assume that is using a mili ohm meter?
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Originally posted by atone View PostFor the dummy load i am using 10 ohm/ 50w mounted on a aluminum heatsink-gets very hot after a few minutes so that tell me there is good current output from the stator.
I don't think the light circuit has anything to do with it as well other than reducing the load on the charging circuit when the fuse is out (it draws an extra 5.6 amps from the system on my bike). Something is marginal, just what is the question. As far as the stator being shorted: My first stator (2 year old electrosport) measure the 50vac to ground at 5K so i replaced it with a new electrosport. It also measured 50vac at 5k to ground. Very unlikely two would measure the same but i had no other ideas- put in an original oem stator from a runing bike- same thing! Literally have had the stator cover off 20 times look for anywhere that is pinching wires, can't find anything.
I am not familiar with the term "buss out"? I assume that is using a mili ohm meter?Last edited by posplayr; 07-02-2011, 12:36 AM.
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bakalorz
Originally posted by atone View PostTo recap:all three stator wires directly wired to regulator, single point ground system as described in stator papers, reg+ directly to battery+. Will check all the ends of the grounds again. The wiring harness is two years old (as was all electrical components). What is still getting me is the 50vac at 5k to ground on each stator leg yet it is putting out over 90vac into the dummy load as described in the revised stator papers. The only small clue i have to go on right now is that the charge voltage reaches 14v with the headlight fuse removed (before you go there i have also tried a different fuse box!)
when you measure the voltage to ground, what you are doing is:
disconnect all three stator wires from the R/R, connect one lead from multimeter to one of the stator leads, connect other multimeter lead to ground on frame or battery, leave other two stator wires completely disconnected from anything, start engine and rev to 5k ...
That's exactly how you are doing it, right ?
Also, its normal and expected for it to read 90v open (or into dummy load) even if its shorting to ground. During the open or dummy load tests the stator is floating, so it is not really affected by a short to ground.
A ground short will only cause problems once the stator is connected to the R/R and it is no longer floating.
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if you built this and have a metal heat sink , then insulate the dummy load from the frame/engine. None of the connection on the resistors should be touching ground .................................
a couple more things, where are you measuring the voltage at? Right at the battery with no other connections?
buzz the stator leads to ground and see if there are any DC shorts.
Generally I would not run that dummy load for more than 1 minute before letting it cool.Last edited by posplayr; 07-02-2011, 05:41 AM.
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mnferwerda
Was there ever a solution to this thread? I have the same symptoms /readings
- Doesn't charge above 12.8 volts
- Stator replaced 3 years ago along with a new Compufire regulator
- Doing the stator phase B tests, I get .9 ohms resistance between each leg, infinite resistance between each leg and ground, 80AC v between the legs at 5000 rpm, but I get @ 40AC v between each leg and ground, which, according to the last part of phase B, indicates that the stator is bad.
Stator is wired directly to the regulator/rectifier. The positive output the regulator is run straight to the battery with an inline fuse. Ground is also good (at least my multimeter indicates no resistance between the frame and the negative battery terminal).
I want to believe the stator itself is not bad.
If I get infinite resistance between each stator leg and ground, theoretically I should not be able to get any voltage between each leg and ground. Yet I do. How can that happen? Weird....
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Originally posted by mnferwerda View PostWas there ever a solution to this thread? I have the same symptoms /readings
- Doesn't charge above 12.8 volts
- Stator replaced 3 years ago along with a new Compufire regulator
- Doing the stator phase B tests, I get .9 ohms resistance between each leg, infinite resistance between each leg and ground, 80AC v between the legs at 5000 rpm, but I get @ 40AC v between each leg and ground, which, according to the last part of phase B, indicates that the stator is bad.
Stator is wired directly to the regulator/rectifier. The positive output the regulator is run straight to the battery with an inline fuse. Ground is also good (at least my multimeter indicates no resistance between the frame and the negative battery terminal).
I want to believe the stator itself is not bad.
If I get infinite resistance between each stator leg and ground, theoretically I should not be able to get any voltage between each leg and ground. Yet I do. How can that happen? Weird....
If the leg to ground tests at 5K RPM are 40 VAC I would say the stator is shorted.
That would explain your lack of charging.
If the stator was already damaged when you switched to the Compufire, that damage is not repaired. I would pull the cover and see if it looks burnt. If it is not it might be the Compufire that failed.
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