Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

1983 GS550E, No igniter unit!

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    1983 GS550E, No igniter unit!

    I recently traded a few airsoft guns for an 83 GS550E. Now I have to get it going. The kid I got it from had no idea what was wrong with it. First off, no spark. After a couple days of wire tracing, multimeter using, and researching, I figured out that the the igniter unit/cdi box was completly missing. Now I know I can get one for about $500 and I am having a hard time locating a used one with these particular #s (32900-43402). Is there a way I can use one off a 94 katana? Or what can I do to make my problem less expensive?

    #2
    Post in the parts wanted section and see if a good used one turns up, or roll the dice on an eBay one. The 83 uses an integrated advance curve in the ignitor, as opposed to the mechanical advance of the 82 and earlier GS550s. There are also a number of threads on the matter for various alternative solutions. Try some forum searches. Here's a good recent thread about a member who repaired a failed ignitor (I know, yours is missing but if you can find a used one and it doesn't work...)



    If/when you get the bike running, make sure the first thing you do is check the charging system. A lot of these bikes will over-charge and that's very hard on the ignitors.

    Comment


      #3
      You may want to read these also:

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by flyhunter3825 View Post
        I recently traded a few airsoft guns for an 83 GS550E. Now I have to get it going. The kid I got it from had no idea what was wrong with it. First off, no spark. After a couple days of wire tracing, multimeter using, and researching, I figured out that the the igniter unit/cdi box was completly missing. Now I know I can get one for about $500 and I am having a hard time locating a used one with these particular #s (32900-43402). Is there a way I can use one off a 94 katana? Or what can I do to make my problem less expensive?

        When you do get your igniter make sure you do all possible tests to avoid frying it. If you just plug it in you are asking for sorrow.
        Of course the bike you got may have been a donor but I doubt anyone would part readily with an igniter and keep the bike.
        Heck it may have been stolen.

        Comment


          #5
          I am seriously contemplating to upgrade to a Dyna 2000 and do the necessary mods to make it work. If I do this move. I can sell you my unit. I repaired the unit myself by replacing the main transistors on the board.
          IF you find one and its not working, dont toss it. I can help you fix it. Once I get done with these stupid summer classes I will be able to post a guide on what I did.
          Good luck man

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by victorgallas View Post
            I am seriously contemplating to upgrade to a Dyna 2000 and do the necessary mods to make it work. If I do this move. I can sell you my unit. I repaired the unit myself by replacing the main transistors on the board.
            IF you find one and its not working, dont toss it. I can help you fix it. Once I get done with these stupid summer classes I will be able to post a guide on what I did.
            Good luck man

            He snagged on off EBay. Alas my efforts to lowball the seller were in vain.
            Looks sweet 7k miles on it.

            Now back to this dyna 2000 thing. If you can get it to work you would free a lot of folks here from the pain and suffering and have a means to make some money for yourself.

            Dyna would never be interested in this but there seems to be a rash of failures of late. This is no doubt exacerbated by the heat and by acqusitions of old bikes that were parked because of the sundry electrics issues common to the 83-86 bikes.

            Its a beautiful day to sit on the deck and look at the motorcycle.

            Comment


              #7
              Hey thanks guys. Ok, so i got the unit pretty quick. I did counter offer and get it for a little less. And i also got the Haynes manual for the bike the day before. I tested each tab but got different results, or none, from what the manual states. Now what?

              Comment


                #8
                Also, the coils are new. The mounting bolts are nice and shiney. My gut feeling is it was originally an ignition issue but they figured it was the coils & replaced them. With no luck, they went on to replace the igniter but saw how much a new one is and quit the project. I am pretty electrically literate and work with quite a few electricians that can give me a hand if needed.

                Comment


                  #9
                  The resistance check on the manual is not bulletproof.
                  Have you tried to just plug the unit in and see if you get any spark?
                  I never had any readings on my CDI that matched the book.

                  Also,make sure youre coils are getting proper voltage.
                  If the switch or any connectors are dirty you wont get full 12 volts at the coils and it wont work.

                  Good luck.

                  PS: If the CDI unit you got does not seem to work, dont trash it. Mine quit on me and after replacing the transistors on the board she works great.



                  Originally posted by flyhunter3825 View Post
                  Also, the coils are new. The mounting bolts are nice and shiney. My gut feeling is it was originally an ignition issue but they figured it was the coils & replaced them. With no luck, they went on to replace the igniter but saw how much a new one is and quit the project. I am pretty electrically literate and work with quite a few electricians that can give me a hand if needed.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    It may have a bad voltage regulator ? Disconnect the regulator until you get the bike running and can check it..

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Hmm. I did try it, no spark. How do I check the coils? They look new but I guess it wouldn't hurt to check.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        You need to check the primary and secondary resistance of the coils against the factory recommended specs.
                        The primary resistance should be around 4.5kohms, and you measure this by using a multimeter and measure the resistance between the positive and negative prongs on the coil that the wiring harness connects to it.

                        For the secondary, you measure from the coil wire end and the ground prong. This should be a much higher value of 30Kohms I believe.

                        But just so you know, these tests dont really mean if the coil is 100%.
                        Reason for that is because you are only measuring youre coils resistance. But you can have a situation that when the coils gets charged it can arc to the frame in case there are any weak spots on the insulation body. My first set of coils did this. I only noticed one day when i didnt botter to turn on the lights on the garage and I saw this nice blue spark coming from the side of the coil...




                        Originally posted by flyhunter3825 View Post
                        Hmm. I did try it, no spark. How do I check the coils? They look new but I guess it wouldn't hurt to check.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Ok, got the handy dandy multimeter & checked it out. Right on specs. I also checked on the loose spark issue. I tried it in the dark garage & that came out clean too. Its gotta be a wiring issue. The side stand light is on. But the switch broke so the wire is just soldered & taped out of the way. Should that be an open or closed circuit? Cuz even if its apart the light is still on.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            ]

                            hey,
                            the side stand lich will stay on even if the stand is up but the engine is not running, this happens because inside the dash there is a diode that will light up both the oil pressure and the side stand. once the engine is running and youre side stand is up, they should both be turned off.

                            Originally posted by flyhunter3825 View Post
                            Ok, got the handy dandy multimeter & checked it out. Right on specs. I also checked on the loose spark issue. I tried it in the dark garage & that came out clean too. Its gotta be a wiring issue. The side stand light is on. But the switch broke so the wire is just soldered & taped out of the way. Should that be an open or closed circuit? Cuz even if its apart the light is still on.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Did you check the resistance on the signal generator coils.?
                              If that is not working then you will get no spark.

                              Also the coils looking new may just be a product of having been stored in a nice environment. It isn't the coils if the reistence reading are correct and if the casing are not cracked etc.

                              So you have no spark but you have voltage going to the o\w wire that connnects to the coils and the ignitor?

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X