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I think it is great that you want to burn up your electronics
a battery elimination capacitor is great for a dirt bike where excessive vibration kills the battery. It takes care to eliminate acid all over the place and/or lightens the bike. You must know this is usually used on bikes with a AC driven ignition system where the battery only runs the starter motor and lighting systems.(or a kick start with a small dc ign and a AC lighting system)
I'd suggest you get a AC powered head light and wire it directly to the AC generating stator.
Then you may run 2 legs to your AC light and 1 leg with a simple single diode for rectification to run the DC ignition. you might not like weak orange spark at idle -- (fouled plugs from idling at a 5 minute stoplight)
but raise the idle to 2K you'll be fine
I believe proper Grounding goes to STEEL first
Aluminum is conductive but not like ferrous metals. Grounding to both frame and engine is the best method -IMHO -
but what do I know about modified bikes...
a battery elimination capacitor is great for a dirt bike where excessive vibration kills the battery. It takes care to eliminate acid all over the place and/or lightens the bike. You must know this is usually used on bikes with a AC driven ignition system where the battery only runs the starter motor and lighting systems.(or a kick start with a small dc ign and a AC lighting system)
I'd suggest you get a AC powered head light and wire it directly to the AC generating stator.
Then you may run 2 legs to your AC light and 1 leg with a simple single diode for rectification to run the DC ignition. you might not like weak orange spark at idle -- (fouled plugs from idling at a 5 minute stoplight)
but raise the idle to 2K you'll be fine
I believe proper Grounding goes to STEEL first
Aluminum is conductive but not like ferrous metals. Grounding to both frame and engine is the best method -IMHO -
but what do I know about modified bikes...
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