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Guest repliedOriginally posted by 2BRacing View Post
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Originally posted by Adler View Post
and the one I should have got,
The one I got seems to switch between powering 87a and 87. the other one switches between OFF and powering both.
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Guest repliedSo I believe the relay I got is the wrong one.
There seem to be 2 common types of bosch style, 5-pin relay.
The one I got,
and the one I should have got,
The one I got seems to switch between powering 87a and 87. the other one switches between OFF and powering both.
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Definitely heading in the right direction there! And yes, what Dueller said, best way to get that done when there's no way for them to reach unless you remove the eye terminal and properly solder on an extension.
Originally posted by posplayr View PostSorry pete, that would be so that everything has a unshared current path back to the R/R (-).
Just so I get this clear in my head... essentially you want everything electrical getting the correct voltage from the R/R, which becomes even more important with the Honda 6 wire setup, in that if the sense wire is sitting somewhere where it has a voltage drop, it will overcharge.
On the right track now?
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Guest repliedOriginally posted by dueller View PostOr make up two wires with ring terminals on them. One long enough to go from the Neg bat cable point to the fuel sending unit ground and another to go from the Neg bat cable point to the frame ground. Unless this is what you meant by splicing?
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Guest repliedOriginally posted by Adler View PostWell I managed to get the negative cable off the engine, so heres a small update.
The current state of the single ground.
that is the R/R ground and the negative battery ground.
(Thats IS an R/R, right? I ask because it says "Regulator" on it and makes no mention of rectification)
Here are 2 stragglers who haven't found their way over to the ground point yet.
This appears to be a ground point associated with the fuel sending unit. I am guessing this isn't too important?
This looks like the harness ground. Unfortunately there is no way it will reach the single ground point so I may have to splice in some more wire to make it reach.
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Guest repliedOriginally posted by chef1366 View PostThan I am mistaken.
Sorry
Seems the L's are an exception to the pre-80 rule.
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Guest repliedOriginally posted by chef1366 View PostDo your stator wires go directly into your regulator?
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Guest repliedOriginally posted by chef1366 View PostPrior to 1980 Suzuki used seperate regulators and rectifiers.
According to the fiche the E models had separate regulators and rectifiers. The L's either didn't have rectifiers (magic!) or had them combined.
GS550E
GS550L
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Guest repliedWell I managed to get the negative cable off the engine, so heres a small update.
The current state of the single ground.
that is the R/R ground and the negative battery ground.
(Thats IS an R/R, right? I ask because it says "Regulator" on it and makes no mention of rectification)
Here are 2 stragglers who haven't found their way over to the ground point yet.
This appears to be a ground point associated with the fuel sending unit. I am guessing this isn't too important?
This looks like the harness ground. Unfortunately there is no way it will reach the single ground point so I may have to splice in some more wire to make it reach.
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Originally posted by pete View PostIf you only have the one lead from the negative battery terminal, then it should be easy enough just to make up a second lead, and use that one to route from the battery to whereever you want the single ground point to be.
The essential point of the single ground is for everything electrical to have a direct connection to the battery negative, which you can do with multiple grounds and multiple leads, it's just messier...
As long as the relay has a normally open option so it only closes and provides connectivity when voltage is applied, it's all good.
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Guest repliedOriginally posted by pete View PostIf you only have the one lead from the negative battery terminal, then it should be easy enough just to make up a second lead, and use that one to route from the battery to whereever you want the single ground point to be.
The essential point of the single ground is for everything electrical to have a direct connection to the battery negative, which you can do with multiple grounds and multiple leads, it's just messier...
As long as the relay has a normally open option so it only closes and provides connectivity when voltage is applied, it's all good.
Can you (or anyone) tell if the relay pictured is a normally open relay? I have very little experience reading electrical diagrams but it looks to me like the circuit is closed to 87a.
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