So close...

[dueller]

Forgot to say......you might wanna check your oil or maybe just change it! If you had gas running into your airbox, it could very likely have overflowed into your intake ports and drained past the piston rungs into your crankcase. At the very least open your fill cap and smell in there. If it smells like gas change! Not a bad idea to just change it anyways. Only be like $15. Not bad insurance.

[dueller]

So? Been able to make any headway on it?

[Topman]

You bet. Dueller you were absolutely correct about the fuel in my oil, thank you for that. I realized the error in my ways. I was getting way too excited to get out on the open road.. Everyone's comments have brought me back to reality. I'm taking the carbs off, gonna dip them as soon as all the goodies get here in the mail. Waiting on a feeler gauge to adjust the valve clearances. Just replaced the clutch springs today, thinking I may need to replace the clutch cable because I still can't seem to get it as tight as I'd like. Got new sprockets, waiting on a new chain (old one is definitely on the brink) as well as new muffler connectors (noticed an obvious leak coming from there). Also cleaned the rear caliper yesterday, it was pretty nasty so I took the rear M/C apart today, something I should have done anyways when I noticed fluid leaking from a tiny hole in the boot.
Which brings me to another issue, inside the piston bore there is a minor build up of something almost like rust or just gunk too stuck on to get off with q-tips or a tooth brush (mediocre picture attached), is this going to be a problem? I didn't notice any gouges or scrapes otherwise. If the piston and cup set look to be in good shape, is it feasible to just replace the seals and boot?
When it comes to cleaning the carbs... Robert Barr's instructions included with my new O-ring set states that you should not dip float bowls 1 & 2 because they have a plastic liner that the dip will destroy, how then should I go about cleaning them thoroughly? Along with the new O-rings, after cleaning, I have a carb sync tool to do just that, also have a caliper to assist in adjusting the float bowl per the guide, what other measures have I over looked in terms of prepping them to perform their best?

[dueller]

Which brings me to another issue, inside the piston bore there is a minor build up of something almost like rust or just gunk too stuck on to get off with q-tips or a tooth brush (mediocre picture attached), is this going to be a problem? I didn't notice any gouges or scrapes otherwise. If the piston and cup set look to be in good shape, is it feasible to just replace the seals and boot?

Glad I could help on the gas in the oil. Seen it suggested to another poster. Absolutely. If all the hard parts look good give it a try. There's a rebuild doc on Basscliff's site. I have to do mine badly! I'm not sure what your pic is. That's inside the bore of the caliper? or inside the piston? You'd probably be ok. If you have to maybe use a little bit of fine steel wool so you don't cause deep gouges just finish the surface.

When it comes to cleaning the carbs... Robert Barr's instructions included with my new O-ring set states that you should not dip float bowls 1 & 2 because they have a plastic liner that the dip will destroy, how then should I go about cleaning them thoroughly? Along with the new O-rings, after cleaning, I have a carb sync tool to do just that, also have a caliper to assist in adjusting the float bowl per the guide, what other measures have I over looked in terms of prepping them to perform their best?

I dipped mine. Of course there was some slight oxidation after being exposed to the elements after a few days. I am hoping to take them off this winter and clean up the outsides and paint them up. Check out JWhelan65's rebuild thread. I think it's in the middle somewhere. Had his painted up and I am planning on following that paint scheme but blue in the spots where he used black.

[dueller]

Any luck? How's the carbs comin?

[Topman]

Only got a gallon of Barryman's so I'm dipping one carb at a time. Luckily took the step to order new bolts for the whole set up because those screws did not want to come out for the life of me. Other parts are coming in every day, so I plan on doing the valves tonight after I throw the next carb into the dip.

That paint job you pointed out is amazing! I'd be afraid I'd never want to touch the carbs again though, in fear of scratching the paint...

[MisterCinders]

Topman - where are you in Chicago? I am in the city and have more tools (carbtune, colortune, etc.) than know-how (I am pretty dumb). If you're in the city and need help hit me up through a PM.