Faulty R/R and/or stator?

[sporty]

OK, I measured the voltage across the three wires from the stator: zero at any RPM! But the weirdest thing is that there is a spark between the wires if I short them. And when I connect the stator wires back to the R/R, the voltage from the battery goes from 9V to 12.2V. The only explanation I can think of is the voltage too chaotic to be measured properly by multimeter

[Matchless]

OK, I measured the voltage across the three wires from the stator: zero at any RPM! But the weirdest thing is that there is a spark between the wires if I short them. And when I connect the stator wires back to the R/R, the voltage from the battery goes from 9V to 12.2V. The only explanation I can think of is the voltage too chaotic to be measured properly by multimeter

Are you using the AC setting for the stator wires? It is not DC.

[Woodsy]

Yeah otherwise your problem will never go away

[Matchless]

and i put an extra earth on the voltage reg and it got hot instantly.

Something not quite right here.
The R/R needs a good ground and positive to the battery terminals. Even if the wires do not go directly to the battery there should be no voltage drop over these wires at load, meaning no resistance because of poor connections.
If an additional earth results in any changes, then I would think the earthing is suspect. Test it by running a direct ground to the battery.

[posplayr]

Thanks Nessism,

I replaced the stator connectors and the standard fuse holder with a blade type and it will now charge at 13.6v at idle, but if you give it any revs it will drop down to 13v

this usually means a bad connection between R/R(+) and Battery(+). If it is bad enough it will also make the R/R HOT.

[Nessism]

Listen guys, two bikes in one thread gets confusing.

As a general comment, the factory Suzuki wiring for the charging system is weak. GSR common wisdom has it to wire the stator directly to the R/R, bypassing the factory wiring harness. Next, make sure the R/R is well grounded; many members here run dedicated ground wires, split, one to the frame and the second to the battery negative post. Lastly, how to route the Positive feed out of the R/R has a couple of options: one is feed back into the factory harness and through the regular fusebox and back to the battery, and second is to bypass that and run it direct to the battery with a small fuse holder added. If your fuse box and wiring in general is decently clean, using the fusebox is easier. If you are seeing resistance in those circuits though, a new wire with fuse saves time and energy vs. cleaning all the wiring.

Good luck and hope this helps.

[Matchless]

this usually means a bad connection between R/R(+) and Battery(+). If it is bad enough it will also make the R/R HOT.

Woodsy,
Posplayr is the GS guru on R/R's and he has spent a lot of time proving and testing the workings thereof, he gives good advice.
Nessism also knows his stuff

Some people have unnecessarily replaced electrical parts and in the replacement process fixed the bad connection unknowingly, but at a cost.
Many useful coils, igniters and R/R's have been binned by them as a result.

[Woodsy]

Your help is very much appreciated Fellas, i didnt want to replace anything big to start off with so i started with conenctions and to replace the standard fuse holder ( gsx250 only has 1 main fuse ) which did get me afew extra volts, so i can only imagine the condition of the rest of the wiring harness under all that black tape.

could anyone explain to me why i cant get a reading from the RR using the multimeter leads the correct way as per manual? can only get readings if i reverse the leads