No spark...coils?

[mindtrip]

Hey everyone,

I just came into a FREE GS650G 81, and I have been diagnosing the electrical with it. I have traced the disconnectivity back to the coils. Or so i think. Ive checked all the circuits from ignitor to stator everything seems normal. Im getting electricity at the wire into the coil but not after the coil. Which leads me to believe they are the culprit. The bike cranks and would like to start as the starter and starter clutch are turning the pistons, just no spark...

it really just seems as if the coils are bad, it was sitting out from 95 till last year and it looks like someone was tinkering with it, nothing major though.

any ideas or feedback would be greatly appreciated.

[Suzuki_Don]

First off I would test the coils.

Primary resistance should be between 3 and 5 ohms.

Secondary resistance should be between 30 and 35k ohms.

[mindtrip]

I tried doing that... my multimeter is giving me infinity for resistance....but correct me if im wrong; im supposed to be testing from plug wire to plug wire on the same coil in 0Ohm setting on the Multi. Checked the batter IN the multi meter and its good.

[tom203]

Hey everyone,

I just came into a FREE GS650G 81, and I have been diagnosing the electrical with it. I have traced the disconnectivity back to the coils. Or so i think. Ive checked all the circuits from ignitor to stator everything seems normal. Im getting electricity at the wire into the coil but not after the coil. Which leads me to believe they are the culprit. The bike cranks and would like to start as the starter and starter clutch are turning the pistons, just no spark...

it really just seems as if the coils are bad, it was sitting out from 95 till last year and it looks like someone was tinkering with it, nothing major though.

any ideas or feedback would be greatly appreciated.

If it's been sitting idle for 16 years, you have much work to do. When you say you have juice to coil, but not after, what exactly do you mean? Did you check for spark by removing a plug, holding it against engine and cranking it over?

[Suzuki_Don]

I tried doing that... my multimeter is giving me infinity for resistance....but correct me if im wrong; im supposed to be testing from plug wire to plug wire on the same coil in 0Ohm setting on the Multi. Checked the batter IN the multi meter and its good.

You check the primary resistance by going across the two terminals on the coil with the multimeter. One lead to each terminal -- should be 3 to 5 ohms.

The secondary resistance is checked by connecting the multimeter leads to the two spark plug leads where they connect to the spark plugs -- should be 30 to 35k ohms.

Just because the voltage part of your multimeter works does not means the ohms (resistance) part of the meter works. If you are getting an "out of range" reading when testing the coil either the coil is dead or the multimeter is no good. Borrow one from a mate.

[mindtrip]

If it's been sitting idle for 16 years, you have much work to do. When you say you have juice to coil, but not after, what exactly do you mean? Did you check for spark by removing a plug, holding it against engine and cranking it over?

I have tried that, no spark.

Basically I took a volt meter and checked the + wire on the front side of the coil and then grounded the other lead form the VM to the engine block and its getting 12 volts.

[Steve]

I have tried that, no spark.

Basically I took a volt meter and checked the + wire on the front side of the coil and then grounded the other lead form the VM to the engine block and its getting 12 volts.

The only way to use a voltage test on the - side of the coil is to remove the wire that goes to the ignitor. If it happens to be in the conduction phase of the cycle, it will be grounded, so you won't see any voltage there. The best way to check the coils is completely out of circuit. Remove both little wires from the terminals (+ and -), pull both wires off the spark plugs, test as described above.

.

[BassCliff]

Greetings and Salutations!!

Hi Mr. mindtrip,

You'll find lots of troubleshooting help in the electrical section of my little website.

In the meantime, let me dump a TON of information on you and share some GS lovin'.

I just stopped by to welcome you to the forum in my own, special way.

If there's anything you'd like to know about the Suzuki GS model bikes, and most others actually, you've come to the right place. There's a lot of knowledge and experience here in the community. Come on in and let me say "HOoooowwwDY!"....

Here is your very own magical, mystical, mythical, mind-expanding "mega-welcome". Please take notice of the "Top 10 Common Issues", "Top 15 Tips For GS Happiness", the Carb Cleanup Series, and the Stator Papers. All of these tasks must be addressed in order to have a safe, reliable machine. This is what NOT to do: Top 10 Newbie Mistakes. Now let me roll out the welcome mat for you...



Please click here for your mega-welcome, chock full of tips, suggestions, links to vendors, and other information. Then feel free to visit my little BikeCliff website where I've been collecting the wisdom of this generous community. Don't forget, we like pictures! Not you, your bike!

Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed. I will put you on my prayer list.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[tom203]

I have tried that, no spark.

As Steve said, disconnect coils to test; it's highly unlikely that both coils have failed- more likely the connections from signal coils to ignitor or from ignitor to coils are bad or disconnected with "someone's tinkering with it" !The ignitor grounds out the coils at the right time. Be sure to venture to Basscliff's, cuz there is a "TON" of info awaiting you. What's the mileage? any pics of this freebie?

[mindtrip]

Thank you ALL for the information and BASScliff for the warm welcome!

I have figured the sparking issue out as i cut 1/4" off the plug wire and now magically i have spark on all 4 cyl. Now, I have cleaned the carbs and put them all back together properly. I installed them on the bike and hooked the gas tank up. Carb 1 and 2 are leaking gas out a hole on the airbox side. Not the air jet, but the one on the right side of each carb.

I tried replacing the oring on the needle carrier and i checked the float height. Made some adjustments and no avail. Still ****ing tons of gas. The bike wants to start tho, im getting compression.

[tom203]

mindtrip said... "Now, I have cleaned the carbs and put them all back together properly. I installed them on the bike and hooked the gas tank up."

Boy, you work fast! But some skeptic might ask, just how did you clean carbs? Anyways, if bike hasn't seen gas in a while, o-rings MIGHT be dried out and need to swell- but I suggest you do a little reading on Basscliff's and discover maintenance on neglected machinery.

Thanks for pic! and you have at least part of airbox!

[mindtrip]

got it running for a sec

I cleaned the carbs as following the carb series. The bike idled today for 5 mins and then died. i was amazed i actually got it started. I didnt have the airbox on, does this matter?

Carbs are still leaking gas from the main air system (air inlet on the right hand side of the carb) If i turn the gas petcock to on (straight down) it doesnt, but when i turn it to primary it does.

Had to put it away for tonight. Im friggin tired

[BassCliff]

Hi,

I didnt have the airbox on, does this matter?

Yes.

Carbs are still leaking gas from the main air system (air inlet on the right hand side of the carb) If i turn the gas petcock to on (straight down) it doesnt, but when i turn it to primary it does.

That's not "primary". It's PRIME. The "On" position allows fuel to flow only when the engine is turning and creating a vacuum for the petcock. The PRIME position will allow fuel to flow without vacuum.

Have a look at this: Where Do These Hoses Go?


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[koolaid_kid]

If it leaks when on Pri then you have a sticking needle and seat. I had to redo every single one on both sets of carbs I have rebuilt. Rather than fussing with just one or two, take each bowl off, remove the float, remove the needle. Clean the spring end and make sure it springs in and out easily. The second set I cleaned with electronic cleaner and lubricant. Then clean the needle end and the seat with your regular cleaner.
Here's a time-saving hint. Take your accessory fuel tank you use while tuning the carbs, put the carbs on your workbench and connect up the tank. Only when no carb is leaking should you reinstall the carbs. This is subjecting them to worst case, which is what you want to do when dealing with something that has the potential to burn your bike down.

[mindtrip]

Airbox goes back on tomorrow. Now that I read your site bass, and your help I thunk I can get it running