1979 gs1000

[Meweeble]

How far out are your fuel adjustment screws?

Whatever the stage 3 kit suggested as the initial 2 or 2.5 i believe... I'm at work so can't check. I tried to adjust them on 2 and 3, even all the way out and in, but didn't make a difference.

[OldVet66]

Try one turn out on the fuel screws. Adjust the air for highest rpm. You will most likely find one that shows a good change in RPM. When it is at it's highest try the next that shows the most change. Don't expect more than a needle width of change on the others, but it makes a huge difference. Then go back and tweak the fuel screws toward lean, no more than 3/4 turn in from seated for any. That gives you a 1/4 turn to play with between 3/4 and one turn. Repeat the air adjust. You might have to go back and fourth several times. When you get good power on the low end you will be dialing in to where it likes to run. I thought mine wouldn't adjust on three of my carbs until I noticed I was turning the screws as much as the one that showed a good change to get those small changes. Pipes, pods and stage 3 jetting is not easy to tune. You will find that permanent sync tubes with 1-4 and 2-3 connected together with vacuum hose will help the low end power and low mid range.

[resjudicata]

Whatever the stage 3 kit suggested as the initial 2 or 2.5 i believe... I'm at work so can't check. I tried to adjust them on 2 and 3, even all the way out and in, but didn't make a difference.

If adjusting the fuel screw does nothing on those carbs then something is wrong with those carbs. It could be lack of vacuum (since you haven't synch'd yet those carbs could be completely closed and the other two open slightly), or clogged pilot fuel jets, or the tip of the fuel screw is broken off blocking the idle passage, or your fuel level in the bowls on those two carbs is too low and not feeding the pilot fuel jet properly.

Check all those. And do the valves.

Chris

[Meweeble]

Try one turn out on the fuel screws. Adjust the air for highest rpm. You will most likely find one that shows a good change in RPM. When it is at it's highest try the next that shows the most change. Don't expect more than a needle width of change on the others, but it makes a huge difference. Then go back and tweak the fuel screws toward lean, no more than 3/4 turn in from seated for any. That gives you a 1/4 turn to play with between 3/4 and one turn. Repeat the air adjust. You might have to go back and fourth several times. When you get good power on the low end you will be dialing in to where it likes to run. I thought mine wouldn't adjust on three of my carbs until I noticed I was turning the screws as much as the one that showed a good change to get those small changes. Pipes, pods and stage 3 jetting is not easy to tune. You will find that permanent sync tubes with 1-4 and 2-3 connected together with vacuum hose will help the low end power and low mid range.

Thanks I'll try this. I think I'm getting closer. I seem to have a couple of issues that in combination are creating a bigger problem. I'm not getting full 12 volts to the coils or the pickups (9 - 10v), so I'll do the relay mod this weekend then do what you suggested. I have almost 180psi compression across all cylinders, looks like enough spark on all cylinders and fuel in the bowls... so we'll see this weekend.

Thanks,

Kevin

[OldVet66]

Relay mod is nice, but it is just a work around for good clean connections. check all of your connectors. The ones under the seat coming from the stator like to discolor and burn. Discoloration is caused by heat. If you see any black, it's been hot enough to burn the connector sleeves. If you go through all the connectors replacing the bad ones, cleaning the others and coating the connection with dielectric grease before putting them back together you will have sufficient voltage for the coils.

[Meweeble]

Update

Getting closer.. just finished relay mod this weekend. Used a 5 pin and included the Dyna s pickups just to make sure. Voltages are perfect. I still need to adjust the carbs better, took it for a little spin around the block and from 4 to 6k rpm runs great, crappy throttle response and reduced power at low rpm, the same for rpms highr than 6k.
I've included a couple of pics of how I mounted the dyna coils, they didn't fit in the stock coil locations due to the plug wires exiting the bottom, so I made a couple of brackets. Pretty self explanatory. I also mounted the relay to the inside back of the electrics panel.
Thanks for the help everyone... I'll let yon know if I can get this thing running well.

[Meweeble]

Update

Here is where i located the relay...

[Meweeble]

Update

Here is what I`ve been working on... my first GS. And the previous owner told me that it has a big bore kit....

[Big T]

From the looks of it, the bike was set up incredibly lean

What is your

Main jet size?
Pilot jet size?
Fuel screw setting?
Air screw setting?

[Meweeble]

From the looks of it, the bike was set up incredibly lean

What is your

Main jet size?
Pilot jet size?
Fuel screw setting?
Air screw setting?

I think you are right it is lean. The exhaust pipes are turning coppery/blue color (you can even see it in the pic from my earlier post) and rpm is slowish to return to idle when the throttle is blipped.

Stage 3 kit...
Mains= 142
Pilot Jet=? stock from the K&L kit
Fuel Screw= 1.5
Air screw= 2.5
Needles are set to groove 2 as per instructions

Where should I start? It does have a 1085 kit in it too.

Thanks,

Kevin

[Meweeble]

Relay mod is nice, but it is just a work around for good clean connections. check all of your connectors. The ones under the seat coming from the stator like to discolor and burn. Discoloration is caused by heat. If you see any black, it's been hot enough to burn the connector sleeves. If you go through all the connectors replacing the bad ones, cleaning the others and coating the connection with dielectric grease before putting them back together you will have sufficient voltage for the coils.

Ya thats a good point.. I did the relay mod first then I went through and checked all my connections (after the battery died) a few of the banana (male female) connectors were so corroded they were white oxide. Cleaned them and and the other rr ones .... guess what.... my bike charges now too. Go figure.

Kevin

[resjudicata]

Have you vacuum synch'd the carbs yet? It sounds like you are still fixated on an electrical issue that may not be real. From the things you have listed here your problem in related to the mixture not electrical.

Chris

[Meweeble]

Have you vacuum synch'd the carbs yet? It sounds like you are still fixated on an electrical issue that may not be real. From the things you have listed here your problem in related to the mixture not electrical.

Chris

Hi Chris,

I'm over the electrical issue... I'm all better now. I provided my carb specs (up a post or 2) that I have right now and I'm comfortable that it is running real lean. A buddy is bringing over a carb synch thingy so we'll get that out of the way.... just waiting to see what Big T suggests.
Thanks.

[resjudicata]

Once you get the synch done you will likely get the jetting dialed in much easier. Without the synch all the carbs are getting different airflow which effects jetting. Can't really figure out the jetting until they are all synch'd properly.

Good luck.

Chris

[OldVet66]

Sounds like you are making progress. I didn't know about the big bore kit and have no idea as to how that affects the fuel screw settings.