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GS550e died and won't start again.

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    #31
    When I get the chance tonight I'll look over the wiring diagram and see if I can find something common (besides the ignition switch) to those two circuits. Voltage at coils or no? You can unplug one and check the connector for the orange wire on the wiring harness. Trying to figure out if your whole ignition circuit is out or just the starter feed.

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      #32
      While the tank is off turn on the key and see if you are getting power at the coils with the orange/white wire.
      1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
      1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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        #33
        It's pretty obvious but I didn't see you mention it: have you checked the connector from the right hand controls to the main harness, under the tank?

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          #34
          OK, let's try to narrow this down a bit more. Is ANYTHING working? Sounded like maybe your tach/speedo lights were going?

          That unused brown wire in the headlamp bucket - getting voltage there? That should be tee'd with the supply for your tail light. Those are the only two ends out of the brown wire from the ignition switch.

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            #35
            it appears as if the tach/speedo lights are working. however, regarding the right hand controls to the main harness, i can't find out where it hooks up under the tank, it's all shrink-wrapped or taped up. I guess i can peel away at the tape and maybe see what's going on. But other than the "dummy" lights working, nothing else does. I do believe the horn and the start switch are on the same circuit (from what i recall, but im not sure). But it all just doesnt make sense why it won't start (only cranks if i jump the solenoid).
            I didn't get a chance to check power to the coils. It just seems as if the whole right hand control doesn't work at all. Ill have to fiddle around with it tomorrow. This bike's giving me a headache.

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              #36
              update. with the ignition switch turned on, there is a full 12v going to each coil. and there is 12v going to the power button ORANGE wire, however there is 0v going to the yellow/green wire on the start button. I looked at the wiring diagram and it shows that the Y/G appears to go from the button to the "starter interlock system". maybe that's my problem? but honestly i have no idea what that is, or where that's located.

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                #37
                You won't see 12V on the G/Y wire until the button is pressed. The button lets the voltage through, so to speak.

                The starter interlock is your clutch switch. Many of us have already bypassed the clutch switch. If you follow the leads from the slider switch on the underside of the clutch lever into the headlight bucket, you can unplug those leads and connect the two wires from the harness into each other.

                Next stop from there is the starter solenoid.

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                  #38
                  well i'm guessing it has something to do with that "next" stop. i have bypassed the clutch safety switch already (crimped the wires together) and boom. still nothing. sooooo. from some point after that bypass to the starter solenoid is my problem. narrows it down a little, just gotta cut open the harness tape/shrink and peek around?

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                    #39
                    however, that still doesn't explain why it died while moving, that appears to just be a starting circuit. i'm no wiring expert, but i wonder if it's an issue with my kill-switch, which would explain everything that happened possibly. is there a way to check to kill-switch or at least bypass it momentarily? if i just spliced together the two orange wires from the kill, would it act as if the bike is always in "RUN" or act as if it's "OFF"?

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                      #40
                      Yeah, I thought about that dying while driving thing too. That and the kill switch would not explain the headlight being out, either.

                      Have you tested the control lead for the starter solenoid at the solenoid itself for +12V (when pushing the start button, of course)?

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                        #41
                        If it was the kill switch you wouldn't have had volts at the coils.
                        Could it be you blew your starter and headlight at the same time and if you push started it it would start? Test the plug for the headlight for voltage.
                        1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                        1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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                          #42
                          the last time i pop started it, it started for a second, BURPED a little, then just died. no more than 2 seconds tops.

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