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    #16
    Originally posted by UncleBen View Post
    Is there a reason many folks recommend R/R units out of Honda's as opposed to ones from another make? If they are Shindengen of the proper model, it shouldn't matter what bike they came off of.

    I think it's worth noting in the context of this discussion as well that if you have one of the later bikes without a switchable headlight, it might be a good idea to bypass the stator wiring in the OEM harness completely and wire directly from the three stator output wires to the R/R. This makes for less wire in the harness and gets rid of wiring that can fail or short later on. Kind of on the "keep it simple" mind set.
    Most likely it is KISS. If there is a post that does not recommend connecting the stator directly to the R/R it is inaccurate.
    I have tried 5 R/R units on my bike. The two that worked the best for my bike were the Honda units. YMMV.

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      #17
      If you compare the Honda reg and the Suzuki reg You will see a difference The Honda uses like a 14-16 ga wire the Suzuki uses 18 gauge much thinner. Suzuki had a recall on some of there bikes 2008-9 ? for faulty regulators. If you were unlucky your bike burnt to the ground

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        #18
        Great, thanks for the info. I do have a question of those who have the FET model. The wiring seems to be connected to the unit with plug in type clips, did you get a unit with wiring? It looked like only one side had the wiring on the e-bay ads I looked at. How did you modify the other side?

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          #19
          Originally posted by bobnmarilynmaz View Post
          Great, thanks for the info. I do have a question of those who have the FET model. The wiring seems to be connected to the unit with plug in type clips, did you get a unit with wiring? It looked like only one side had the wiring on the e-bay ads I looked at. How did you modify the other side?

          Mine did not come with the plugs. There are just spade connectors in the two openings. You can order the plugs if you want, but regular spade connectors work well too.

          Looking at the openings the three spades on the left go to the stator. On the right side, the left spade is + and the far right is -.

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            #20
            Thanks Ben, and everyone else.

            I was thinking about what you said concerning the bypass of the wiring in the harness, which is a good idea, I was kinda scratching my head wondering why in the world they did this in the first place. I guess Suzuki didn't adhere to the KISS methodology when it came to wiring. It seems as if it only created a greater potential for electrical failure.

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