Electrical issues

[nooblet]

The one I have does have two posts and one smaller spade connector. The spade connector is grounded to the metal housing/bracket that it mounts with.

The positive cable from the battery gets mounted to one of the large posts and the other large cable gets mounted to the other post. It doesn't matter which post? They are not labled.

Now on the spade connector, I still have two more cables coming out of a two spade connector. One is blk/wht and the other is grn/yel. If I only need to mount one of those what do I do with the other one?

[koolaid_kid]

The one I have does have two posts and one smaller spade connector. The spade connector is grounded to the metal housing/bracket that it mounts with.

The positive cable from the battery gets mounted to one of the large posts and the other large cable gets mounted to the other post. It doesn't matter which post? They are not labled.

Now on the spade connector, I still have two more cables coming out of a two spade connector. One is blk/wht and the other is grn/yel. If I only need to mount one of those what do I do with the other one?

Correct, it does not matter. What I did was find the best way to mount it and then connected the post closest to the battery to the battery wire. The other, of course, connects to the starter motor.
The spade connector is the trigger wire. It is fed down into the relay which is why it looks like that. Connect the Y/G wire to it.
The B/W wire is your ground wire. Put a ring terminal on it and connect it to one of your mounting bolts.
Please note, even though it is for a 1983 model, the service manual on BassCliff's website has a wiring diagram in it, and the colours agree. BTW, if you have not done so, download it. Print out the wiring diagram and take it to a copy shop. Make a couple copies as large as possible. I believe I used 11"x17" paper. It makes the diagram much easier to read.

[nooblet]

OK. Thanks for clarifying that. I will do it tomorrow. I also charged the battery today so it should start now and I will test the AC voltage coming from the stator as well. From the tests I have done so far the R/R appears to be ok and if the stator checks out then I geuss I will have to start checking wiring.

[nooblet]

Ok, so I charged my battery yesterday and when I took it off the charger it had 13.57vdc. Didn't install it, just left it on the shelf cause I had to go to work. When I checked it this morning it was down to 12.9vdc The battery is only a week old. Funny thing is, when I bought it they filled it and charged it for me. Took about 1 1/2 hours. When I charged it yesterday it was on the charger for 4 1/2 hours.

Installed the battery and she started right up. At 1000 rpm's I had 12.95vdc, at 2500 rpm's I had 14.5vdc and at 5000 rpm's I had 14.2vdc. From what I have been reading on here if the voltage is less at a higher rpm, there is a problem with the positive battery cable. The clamps were a little corroded and I cleaned them up last week, but who knows how far down the cable the corrosion goes, so I will replace it. The cable has a cloth outer casing, does it matter if I replace it with a rubber/plastic cased one?

Started to check the AC output from the stator. On the first leg at 2500 rpm's I had just over 35vac then it died. One of the carbs flooded because the plastic choke cable insert is broken (where it screws into the top of the carb). I have the new piece, just have not put it on yet. I had the cable temporarily tie-wrapped in place just so I could finish my charging system checks. Looks like I will have to pull the carbs and fix that first and while they are out might as well pull them apart and clean them again. Wanted to get at least one good ride in before the end of the season but I am running out of time.

[tom203]

That voltage falloff is normal after a charger is removed and battery sits for a while. Those dc output readings are a good sign- I'm not convinced that a slight dropoff in voltage from 2500 to 5000 rpms means much, but absolutely clean all the connections you can. I have a voltage display on at all times and have noticed a slight drop at higher rpm's, but I bet my 30 year old R/R is doing its best to adjust. Sort your carb problems out, and do the ac output test, but those dc readings look good.

[BassCliff]

Greetings and Salutations!!

Hi Mr. nooblet,

Sorry I'm late with this. I've been a little distracted lately and trying to catch up. You may find some help on the electrical page of my little website.

Anyway, let me dump a TON of information on you and share some GS lovin'.

I just stopped by to welcome you to the forum in my own, special way.

If there's anything you'd like to know about the Suzuki GS model bikes, and most others actually, you've come to the right place. There's a lot of knowledge and experience here in the community. Come on in and let me say "HOoooowwwDY!"....

Here is your very own magical, mystical, mythical, mind-expanding "mega-welcome". Please take notice of the "Top 10 Common Issues", "Top 15 Tips For GS Happiness", the Carb Cleanup Series, and the Stator Papers. All of these tasks must be addressed in order to have a safe, reliable machine. This is what NOT to do: Top 10 Newbie Mistakes. Now let me roll out the welcome mat for you...



Please click here for your mega-welcome, chock full of tips, suggestions, links to vendors, and other information. Then feel free to visit my little BikeCliff website where I've been collecting the wisdom of this generous community. Don't forget, we like pictures! Not you, your bike!

Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed. I will put you on my prayer list.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[nooblet]

Had to work this morning, but I got a chance to do the AC test on the stator when I got home. At 5000 rpm's I got 70 vac on 2 legs and 89 vac on the third so it looks like I gotta fork out some bucks and pick up a new stator.

Also pulled the start button apart and the contacts inside were black, cleaned them up really good, put it back together and it still would not start. Only got a slight click from the solenoid. Pressed the button 10 or 12 times and it started. I got the solenoid from Lowe's, but have not installed it yet. Can a solenoid be intermittent like that or should I be looking somewhere else?

[spyug]

Do you have a circuit test light/probe? I find this an essential tool for working on electrics. With it you can test that the starter button is working correctly. With the key on touch the green/orange wire at the solenoid and depress the button you should light the probe. If you do and the solenoid doesn't klick then its kaput. If you don't get a light then you need to go back into the switch and see where you do and don't have power. I'll bet you still need to clean the switch.

Solenoids can be intermittent but its more likely that they just die in my experience. In my 550 project mine was DOA and I had to do the garden tractor solenoid replacement. Worked fine from then on.

With electrical issues like this its usually down to 2 things, bad and or corroded connectors and contacts and poor or missing grounds. Since you are going to change the solenoid I would take time and cleanup the contacts around and at the fuse block. Also make sure the contacts on the lead from the solenoid to the starter are clean and tight at both ends.

I'll bet if you change out that solenoid you'll be good.

Good luck and keep us informed.

cheers,
Spyug

[koolaid_kid]

My GPz solenoid was intermittent. I did the starter button refurbish, some wiring mods, etc. Finally replaced the solenoid and everything is good.

[tom203]

Had to work this morning, but I got a chance to do the AC test on the stator when I got home. At 5000 rpm's I got 70 vac on 2 legs and 89 vac on the third so it looks like I gotta fork out some bucks and pick up a new stator.

Also pulled the start button apart and the contacts inside were black, cleaned them up really good, put it back together and it still would not start. Only got a slight click from the solenoid. Pressed the button 10 or 12 times and it started. I got the solenoid from Lowe's, but have not installed it yet. Can a solenoid be intermittent like that or should I be looking somewhere else?

I'd focus on changing the solenoid. The difference in stator ac readings could be just contact error- yeah, it might get worse but you are getting decent dc readings so be cheap!

[nooblet]

Thanks for all the info. I will replace the solenoid first chance I get and see what happens. I already cleaned the wire contacts at the solenoid and starter switch but I will double check them again. I want to try to get it going soon so I can get a couple of rides in before the season ends, and I plan to tear it apart again and really go through it this winter. I was actually thinking of making all new wiring harnesses for it.

[nooblet]

Well, I tried to start her up this morning and even though I had 12.47vdc at the battery she would not start. Same issue, slight click at the solenoid but nothing else. I replaced the solenoid with the one I got from Lowe's and she started right up. I shut her down, and restarted several times and it appears my starting issue is gone. Now I just need to get the choke cable insert replaced where it screws into the top of the carb and I think I may be riding by the end of the week! I have new carb boots on both sides and they are pretty tight, so pulling them is not going to be fun.