Signal and gauge rewire

[pete]

The leads on a diode aren't like regular copper wire, you don't want to twist it much. I would solder everything together, test and if it all works shrink the heat shrink. unsoldering a connection is just as easy as soldering it. Their should be an arrow on the diode telling you which way to put it in, the arrow should point from positive to negative. probably toward the gauge light in your case.

Yep I'd definitely solder first off, I meant just to skip shrinking the heatshrink before you test, that way you can slide it back and desolder etc.

The diodes I'm used to simply have a line around one end, and that's the end you want going to the single gauge light. If they have the arrow then that's even easier

Let us know how you get on...

[MisterCinders]

Soldered in the diodes, now my signals work fine. Thanks a ton, guys.

[pete]

Soldered in the diodes, now my signals work fine. Thanks a ton, guys.

Good stuff, glad to hear I didn't lead you up the garden path

[Hone101]

Just got those same Gauges. This thread is a big help. Gotta love the search.

[chucksuki]

Yup, I just received these gauges today, with the black face though. I was looking at the wiring diagram in the book and saw an issue was going to pop up. Thanks for the info! Saved me some trouble.

[chucksuki]

I have my signals working great but i can't seem to get the neutral indicator to work. how did you hook yours up mister cinders? Do i need to run a hot to one of the other gear sensors to complete the circuit?

[Toasty]

I'm bookmarking this thread, I know I'm gonna come across this issue when I get to wiring my Acewell...

[chucksuki]

all lights work except my neutral indicator.

[Toasty]

I took a look at the wiring diagram, it looks like it's just hooked up to ground and power is coming from the gear position lamp switch. You need to feed the switch power to complete the circuit... I think...



The neutral light is the blue one.

[chucksuki]

yeah, that's the same thing i was thinking looking at the wiring diagram. the orange comes through and feeds the lamps and then goes straight through the indicator numbers down to the sensor and the neutral running independent. seem to me like the circle wasn't closed. make sense?

[Steve]

The neutral indicator in your new gauge set is probably "active hot", meaning that you need to add a "hot" wire to turn on the light, which is always grounded.

The stock neutral indicator is "active ground", meaning that you switch a ground wire to turn on a light that is always connected to a "hot" wire.

You could use a relay to provide the switching, if you want. Let me know if you are interested, I can get a drawing for you.

.

[chucksuki]

That makes total sense, Steve. I knew the bike was an active ground but didn't think the new gauge would be flip-flopped. I'm interested in that relay drawing, that would probably be the easiest answer. Can you post it here for others to find?

[Toasty]

I would be interesting in seeing that too. Btw Chucksuki, what gauge are you using?

[chucksuki]

Same ones as mister cinder except with the black face. They look awesome.

[chucksuki]

i'll post a picture later, i gotta go to the gym to teach boxing class and train jiujitsu.....guess i gotta take a break from the bike