how many alternator amps??

[posplayr]

Yeah, but at that DC output, the effective AC current in a 3-phase alternator is 8 amps - this is what one would measure if they stuck an meter on any of the 3 stator outputs. This is why 3 phase is so predominant- the overlap of the phases delivers power effficiently with less bulk.

tangential tom has now left orbit

Please provide other informative data on the price of cheese in Denmark.


The original question.......................................... ..............

Just a quick question whilst I locate my workshop manual, does anyone know how many AMPS the standard GS750B alternator and shindengen rectifier puts out please??

The R/R puts out DC which what I was answering.

And thank you very much but I don't need a lesson on 3 phase power. I got that over 30 years ago in my "sparks and magic" course.

[Steve]

I don't play much with 3-phase power, but I did not read that requirement into the original question, either.

I was just going to comment on this:

LMAO 11 ampres at idle?? I can smell your battery cooking from here

Just because the alternator/regulator combination is putting it out does not mean it's all going to the battery.

Some time ago, I had gotten my clamp-meter out to answer a question on the Sienna forum on which I am a member.
The question there was "is there enough output at idle to charge a trailer battery?" This was my reply:

OK, I have not yet connected my full complement of trailer wiring (only have the lights, so far), but just the other day I had my clamp-on ammeter out, so I put it on the alternator output wire. The van was 'cold', as it had not been run for several hours, but the air temp was in the 90s. It was running at fast idle and I had the A/C on, both fans on LOW. The output of the alternator at that time was 61 amps. I moved the meter over to the battery + wire and saw that only 11 of that was going to the battery.

Basically, the headlight on the bike is going to draw almost 5 amps. The coils will draw 3 or 4 each, for a total of 6 or 8. That means the bike is needing 11-13 amps just to run. If the alternator is putting out 11, I can guarantee that NOTHING is going to the battery. In fact, some might be coming from the battery to help run the bike.

.

[posplayr]

I don't play much with 3-phase power, but I did not read that requirement into the original question, either.

I was just going to comment on this:

Just because the alternator/regulator combination is putting it out does not mean it's all going to the battery.

Some time ago, I had gotten my clamp-meter out to answer a question on the Sienna forum on which I am a member.
The question there was "is there enough output at idle to charge a trailer battery?" This was my reply:


Basically, the headlight on the bike is going to draw almost 5 amps. The coils will draw 3 or 4 each, for a total of 6 or 8. That means the bike is needing 11-13 amps just to run. If the alternator is putting out 11, I can guarantee that NOTHING is going to the battery. In fact, some might be coming from the battery to help run the bike.

.

11 amps was about what it took for the battery current to go to zero.

[tom203]

tangential tom has now left orbit

Please provide other informative data on the price of cheese in Denmark.


The original question.......................................... ..............



The R/R puts out DC which what I was answering.

And thank you very much but I don't need a lesson on 3 phase power. I got that over 30 years ago in my "sparks and magic" course.

Orbit? cheese in Denmark? very informative response..

Yes, he did ask how many amps the alternator was putting out AND how many amps the shindengen R/R was pushing. One might assume he was curious about wire sizes leading from stator to R/R and then from R/R to harness. Last time I looked the stator wires are much smaller gauge because they don't individually carry the full current that the R/R delivers into the harness.

[Steve]

One might assume he was curious about wire sizes leading from stator to R/R and then from R/R to harness. ...

Or, ... one might assume that he was merely wondering whether he had enough reserve to add some extra lights or a monster stereo.

I have found that assuming what a poster wants will quickly get you into trouble.
Just answer the question and maybe offer a tip or two, but don't assume to know why the question is being asked.

.

[trippivot]

total operating systems draw plus plus?

11 amps for breakeven? ok I think I understand now how you are measuring.. wow I missed that one

I only count Positive DC Current - it's the only thing that matters after covering the operating loads.

4 awg for starter and Ground strap
12 or 10 awg for main power before fuseable links I use 10 but it's overkill
12 for Headlight
16 or 14 for charging

after thatyou can do 22-24 awg for a lot of sub 5 amp circuits . I mean look what the dyna stuff comes with

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gauge

[GS750]

Yes, he did ask how many amps the alternator was putting out AND how many amps the shindengen R/R was pushing. One might assume he was curious about wire sizes leading from stator to R/R and then from R/R to harness. Last time I looked the stator wires are much smaller gauge because they don't individually carry the full current that the R/R delivers into the harness.

Or, ... one might assume that he was merely wondering whether he had enough reserve to add some extra lights or a monster stereo.

I have found that assuming what a poster wants will quickly get you into trouble.
Just answer the question and maybe offer a tip or two, but don't assume to know why the question is being asked.

.

Hi, thank you for the very informative debate

I asked my question as I am currently constructing my own custom wiring harness and eliminating the multitude of unused wires.

Through broad life experiences with automotive electrical stuff I have learnt to NOT rely on the metal contact for earthing of components, and therefore I provide a communal earth incorporated in every harness I have ever constructed, usually 10awg is sufficient on most bikes.

I really wanted to know what amps the alternator was outputting, as well as what the reg would likely be outputting so that I could figure my wire sizes and relay needs, as well as a few accessories which are really only used when I take my bike to some shows etc as I dont want to be in the situation where I am discharging the battery.

My headlight is the standard round 7" with 90 watt low beam and 130 watt high beam, and I have recently been considering making myself another bikini fairing to dual 5 1/4" round headlights and keeping my custom plans within style of the era, so that would be 2x 90/130 watters.

Was really asking as I dont want to overload the alt, reg, battery or wiring and kill em Thanks guys!

[posplayr]

Hi, thank you for the very informative debate

I asked my question as I am currently constructing my own custom wiring harness and eliminating the multitude of unused wires.

Through broad life experiences with automotive electrical stuff I have learnt to NOT rely on the metal contact for earthing of components, and therefore I provide a communal earth incorporated in every harness I have ever constructed, usually 10awg is sufficient on most bikes.

I really wanted to know what amps the alternator was outputting, as well as what the reg would likely be outputting so that I could figure my wire sizes and relay needs, as well as a few accessories which are really only used when I take my bike to some shows etc as I dont want to be in the situation where I am discharging the battery.

My headlight is the standard round 7" with 90 watt low beam and 130 watt high beam, and I have recently been considering making myself another bikini fairing to dual 5 1/4" round headlights and keeping my custom plans within style of the era, so that would be 2x 90/130 watters.

Was really asking as I dont want to overload the alt, reg, battery or wiring and kill em Thanks guys!

This schematic would apply to most GS's

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=153727&highlight=550+bobber+schematic

[bakalorz]

<snip>
My headlight is the standard round 7" with 90 watt low beam and 130 watt high beam, and I have recently been considering making myself another bikini fairing to dual 5 1/4" round headlights and keeping my custom plans within style of the era, so that would be 2x 90/130 watters.

Was really asking as I dont want to overload the alt, reg, battery or wiring and kill em Thanks guys!

You wont kill the alt or reg, but I don't think your battery will stay charged with those lights.

As far as I know, all The GS's came with 55/60 watt headlights stock, so one 90/130 is already more than stock.

Two of them is a LOT more.

FWIW,
last winter I was contemplating a heated vest.
Using lights and/or power resistors, I checked to see how much additional current the stator and regulator were capable of putting out.
the criteria was that charging voltage not drop below 13 Volts (charging but just barely)
at idle, 0 amps extra
between 2 and 5 k rpm about 3-4 amps extra
5 k rpm and above 6-8 amps extra

[GS750]

You wont kill the alt or reg, but I don't think your battery will stay charged with those lights.

As far as I know, all The GS's came with 55/60 watt headlights stock, so one 90/130 is already more than stock.

Two of them is a LOT more.

FWIW,
last winter I was contemplating a heated vest.
Using lights and/or power resistors, I checked to see how much additional current the stator and regulator were capable of putting out.
the criteria was that charging voltage not drop below 13 Volts (charging but just barely)
at idle, 0 amps extra
between 2 and 5 k rpm about 3-4 amps extra
5 k rpm and above 6-8 amps extra

Thanks for that! I have been running the 90/130 for 5 years now, still using the same H4 globe and replaced the battery 6 months later as it was old and lazy, and about 4 months after that I discovered that the voltage reg was stuffed, replaced it with the shindengen and haven't had any problems with the battery since.

Whenever I ride I ALWAYS run with the headlight on (low beam at night unless on the highway, and high beam during the day because I like to be seen by idiots in cars/ trucks etc.

About 60% of my riding is around town, usually shortish trips of 5km to 15km, and 40% highway at between 80 and 120Kmh.

I also figure roughly that I gained about 30'ish watts when i converted my stop/tail and instruments + indicators though they are only used occasionally to L.E.D's

I was looking at my local autoparts store today and saw a demo of some of the white "dayglow" H4's and got to thinking that I would probably be better if I do go to dual healights, to stick with standard 55/60's as both lights will have either low or high beam on at the same time, so that will mean 110 watts on low and 120 watts on high.

[bakalorz]

Thanks for that! I have been running the 90/130 for 5 years now, still using the same H4 globe and replaced the battery 6 months later as it was old and lazy, and about 4 months after that I discovered that the voltage reg was stuffed, replaced it with the shindengen and haven't had any problems with the battery since.

Whenever I ride I ALWAYS run with the headlight on (low beam at night unless on the highway, and high beam during the day because I like to be seen by idiots in cars/ trucks etc.

About 60% of my riding is around town, usually shortish trips of 5km to 15km, and 40% highway at between 80 and 120Kmh.

I also figure roughly that I gained about 30'ish watts when i converted my stop/tail and instruments + indicators though they are only used occasionally to L.E.D's

I was looking at my local autoparts store today and saw a demo of some of the white "dayglow" H4's and got to thinking that I would probably be better if I do go to dual healights, to stick with standard 55/60's as both lights will have either low or high beam on at the same time, so that will mean 110 watts on low and 120 watts on high.

FWIW, if you want more light in the front, as far as I'm concerned the way to go is HID (true HID with a ballast)

HID is more efficient, so you get about 3 or 4 times as much light as a 55/60 halogen for about 35/40 watts ...

There are a couple of threads here so I won't repeat it all, search for them and you'll find plenty of info