Charging issues!!!!!

[IanDMacDonald]

Parts interchangeable?

Will a '80 GS 550E r/r unit work with my '82 GS 650 L?

[willie]

If you havent done so already, I suggest that you check for continuity from each stator lead and ground. I just tested mine and found the cause of my poor charging problem. Presently waiting for Ricks Motorsport to call me back re: honoring their warranty.
Willie

[IanDMacDonald]

Update for the umpteenth time!

Fellas-

Alright, went over the stator voltage this morning and as you read, saw it at over 60+ volts, which is a good thing, as it passed all of the continuity tests as well! I did the diode check of the r/r, and saw that it passed. However, I used the charts from Stator Paper IV, and found there to be an issue of my r/r getting .03 volts on the red lead, when it's supposed to be .02 volts. I am slicing the OEM connectors off the r/r and harness, and re-doing it with insulated spade connectors, same goes for the stator leads. I am bringing the r/r ground right to the battery, as well as re-doing some of the grounds I see near the battery box. I know you guys advocate a single ground point on the whole bike, but, that sounds like a winter project!

I have a strange feeling the fuse box is at fault, as I am constantly having issues with the main/ignition fuse area of the box. I'll pull it apart and see if there is anything suspect.

[koolaid_kid]

Will a '80 GS 550E r/r unit work with my '82 GS 650 L?

It should work. Check to see if it has 5 wires; 3 are AC input from the stator, one is 12V DC output, one is ground.
Not sure why you would want to replace faulty parts with equally faulty parts, though.
If you need to replace it, find one without Suzuki's flawed design. Honda R/Rs are well thought of here as reasonably priced alternatives that work much better.

[koolaid_kid]

While the diode test may tell you if you have a failed diode, it is generally not considered a full test of the R/R.
Replacing all the connectors is good, also remove the headlight loop in the third wire if it is still present. Ground the R/R to the battery. The easiest way is to run the R/R ground to a mounting bolt of the R/R, then run a decent gauge wire from there to the negative terminal of the battery.
Then check the output voltage at the battery with the engine at speed, it should be between 13.5V & 14.5V DC.

[tom203]

Will a '80 GS 550E r/r unit work with my '82 GS 650 L?

Don't waste your time or risk your stator- get a Honda type (Shindengen brand)- many members have had good luck with these.

[hjfisk]

Don't waste your time or risk your stator- get a Honda type (Shindengen brand)- many members have had good luck with these.

agreed save your stator and get a honda regulator

[IanDMacDonald]

My instincts are telling me to be careful!

So, I went to Ace Hardware and spent $9 on connectors, etc, and replaced the OEM r/r connector, and the bullet connectors from the stator, and tied all the battery box grounds to the negative battery terminal. I was getting 12v while the bike was at idle, and not much more than that during revs. However, my battery is not dipping back down into the 7/8/9/10 volts as it was the other day. So, I don't think I have to worry about trying to roll the bike and start it anytime soon.

However, I am not naive enough to believe this will stay this way. I'll find a nice CBR r/r over the winter time, along with a carb rebuild, brake pad replacement, and whatever else. I also have to pull the engine from the Yammie and take a look at what I'm getting myself into with that!

[IanDMacDonald]

One more thing!

I just read in the other thread regarding bringing the red lead from the r/r straight to the battery through a in-line fuse. If I am having voltage drop through that lead somewhere (I measure 0.3v), would I not still have voltage drop through the fuse? What would bringing that lead straight to the battery do? Would it cure my charging issue?

[koolaid_kid]

It will not cure your charging issue(s). There is no magic bullet. What it will do is maximize the power to the battery (and hence the rest of the harness) without the losses normally seen through a 30 year old harness.
I use a 25A fused line; you should consider something similar.

[IanDMacDonald]

Thanks!

Thank you for all of your help fellas! It's more than probable that I need a new r/r. All of your help has been extremely helpful! I'll keep you posted on any charging differences after I install the in-line fuse from the r/r's red lead.

[IanDMacDonald]

Quick Update!

Fellas-

So, I took all of my leads that went to the positive terminal of the battery and put them into a brass lug (horn/coil relay, solenoid, and r/r red wire). I was kind of hoping I would see a little difference in my charging voltage, but, like Koolaid Kid said, it made notta!

I charged the battery to 12.62v and threw her on the bike. As soon as I started the bike, she slowly dropped down to 11's, and when I revved the bike, she would go up to 12v, and no higher.

So, I assume my r/r is shot, and over the wintertime, I will replace the r/r, along with cleaning the carbs, sealing the airbox (or going pods), going over all the electrical connections from headlight bucket to taillight, replacing the brake pads, oil change, etc.

Thank you for all of your help fellas. It is my hope that my only purpose on this site from now on will be to help fellow riders and contribute my two-cents. Michigan riding season is coming to a sad end. Thank you again.

[elrico]

Mr.Mac If I missed this:was battery ever "load Tested" and confirmed to be in good condition,I saw you report(before turning ignition key on?) !2.6v at/ start up,has the battery ever shown 13.2v-12.8v after charge and held that like sitting overnight,no wires attached to it:has reliable ground(negative) battery cable to frame been verified also...just wondering..we got a few riding days left in wolverine state.If battery no good and all else is:dog chase tail never catch kinda thing.Just a little hopeing for something..you have been slugging it out.good Luck.

[IanDMacDonald]

Hmm . . .

Elrico-

No, the battery was never load-tested. In all fairness, it is a newer battery that I grabbed from my Yammie. 12.8V is the highest the battery will charge. I have sat the battery overnight after being off the charger in my basement, and she held her charge. As far as my battery's ground, there are two grounds for the negative cable: a tiny 18-22 gauge wire grounding to the battery box, and the other leading to a mounting bolt on the engine case within eyesight. I have never tested the continuity of that ground. I guess it would be a good idea to do that now, now that you mention it.

If I took it to Auto Zone, would they load test it?

Thank you.

[elrico]

Mr.Mac,Yes,Yes,and Yes,go to Zone with batt.at what after being on charger voltage(whatever seemed fully charged) is in it.They will at no charge $, check it on tester device.