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I haven't been using my bike for a couple of weeks but have been starting it at least once a week however for no reason my 82 gs1100ez suddenly couldn't fire on cylinders #1 and #4. what could be the reason(s)?
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Coils, timing, plugs, etc.
Check whether you are getting fuel and/or spark.
Pull the plugs. Are they wet with gas? Then you have a spark problem. Are they dry? Then you have a fuel problem.
If wet, pull all four plugs, then insert plugs into the lead for No. 1. ground the plug against the engine block and hit the starter. Is it sparking? If not, then the plug is bad, the wire is bad and/or the coil is bad.
Try that again for No. 4. Is it sparking? If not, same chances, though odds are it is the coil, since 1 and 4 share a coil.
If one of the two are sparking, then you have a plug/wire problem on that cylinder.
If both are sparking, then you probably have a timing problem (assuming that they were wet with fuel). If you have spark and fuel but no fire, it's because they aren't not getting together to make sweet, sweet combustion sex. 1 and 4 have the same ignition timing, so pull the points/ignition cover and check points gaps (if your bike has points) and get a connectivity light to see when the 1/4 ignition is hitting.
That should get you started on diagnosis. Good luck. -
Your Coil.
From all my experience with this bike, I always assume it's an electrical issue (not saying it's not a carb issue). But, first thing is pull the plugs, put them back in the plug caps, and lay them on the head and start the bike. If there is no spark, I'd say it's an electrical problem, more than likely a bad coil, but not conclusively. If you get spark, but it's weak, check the voltage at the coils with the key on, and the kill switch on run. Pull the tank off, and pull the two wires off the left coil. The orange/white wire (or whatever the striped wire is), should be positive, and the other negative. No harm if you get them backwards. You should see close to source voltage. Don't be alarmed if you see something much less than 12v! That just means you have a Suzuki, lol.
While the connectors are off the coil, the second thing to check is the impedance between those two terminals. Place your meter in impedance mode, and place the positive/negative leads on the +/- leads of the coil. By the way, if you are confused what is +/- on the coil, if you look real close, you will see it says "+" and "-" by each terminal.
Doing the impedance check, you should see something close to 3 ohms. Last check is checking the legs of the caps. One probe in each cap. You should see something upwards of 22k ohms. If you are not getting a proper reading, unscrew them, cut back some of the wire, re-screw them on again, and then re-measure.
The last thing to do is to swap the coils, and see if your 1&4 cylinders run, and your 2&4 cylinders are cold. All of the above would indicate a bad coil. If I was you, I would buy them in a pair, and replace them both at the same time.
I had the same problem as you, except, I just had the plug wires backward, lol. That was only after replacing the coils though.
I have replaced the battery, coils, ignitor, and now the r/r all within two months of owning this bike! These bikes have electrical curses!Comment
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Have checked the plugs and coils ( by interchanging ) and they seem alright, however current wasn't running through the ignition unit. Can it be fixed or has it to be replaced?Comment
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did you check the pickup coil and the ignition coil ?Comment
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ignition coils are alright. what is the pick-up coil?Comment
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