D.I.Y Rectifier - Regulator.....with less than 10 euro

[Steve]

... a better choice with only two drawbacks, its a bit larger than the shunt types and quite expensive!

In my opinion, it's only "expensive" once.

If you are patient, you can find one for less than $150.

What does a new stator cost?

How about a new OEM R/R?

How many times to you have to buy them?

How does that total compare to ONE Compufire?

.

[kokar]

much better now ?

[bakalorz]

Re the weatherproofing:

When I did a homebuilt R/R about 5 years ago, I painted over everything with "liquid electrical tape" that I got in Walmarts automotive dept.
I've also seen it in home depot.

I didn't make any additional enclosure for it at all, everything just sits out in the weather ... I've ridden the bike in the rain several times since ...

Five years later its still working fine.

[salty_monk]

Is it much more difficult to design a series circuit? (Sorry if that's a stupid question... my understanding of electronics is basic).

[Matchless]

Here is an approach that was used for a while:
You want all three SCR's to share the load at all times. Separate controlling circuits will have tolerances and you may find a certain one SCR will always switching on first and thus maybe dying first over time. You need one control for all three SCR's.

[Matchless]

Kokar,
I know its fun to build these circuits and I have already been there myself. Many people have tried variations of the R/R's but many also gave up when it came to the layout, casing/heatsink as it then can become more practical and cost effective to just buy a good used one. Many bikes just do not have a good mounting position for large clumsy DIY box.

Then the SCR regulation is a very old approach and has been around for more than 30 years. About 8 years ago Shunt FET regulation came out and it was seen as a much better approach and is being used by OEM manufacturers quite widely now.

As said earlier Series regulators have now been found to be even much better and maybe the best option to go. I must say that I have not seen OEM manufacturers adopting this widely yet for some reason.

If you could design and build a FET or series regulator you will find a lot of interest from other people in the know as well.

If you read through these threads, they do have a lot of information and viewpoints that you may find interesting:

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=134690

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=152769

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=161397

I apologize if I come over as interfering in your project, but that is not my intention. I just want to save you trying to reinvent the wheel. It is your project and do it whichever way you want and enjoy doing what you want.
Keep well.

[Guy]

The amended (second) version with the 3 separate SCRs looks like it would be reliable enough, though I'm not a big fan of home built electronics on bikes when you can pick up cheap enough alternative replacements.
Am I right in assuming the output voltage is 6.2V + 6.2V + 0.6V = 13V?

I hear what Matchless is saying about the need to fire all 3 SCRs together, would it be that big of an issue, they're already generally sharing the load?
Nice job, btw.

[Smellii]

I'm seriously considering building my own because I can't afford a new one. Could I trouble you to provide a complete parts and tools list for your revised version?

[850 Combat]

My older brother made a rectifier for our S90 in the 60's, with a full wave diode. it worked. It was without a heat sink. He had not figured that out, but he was probably only 15 years old or so.

[Adler]

I'm seriously considering building my own because I can't afford a new one. Could I trouble you to provide a complete parts and tools list for your revised version?

You sure you can't afford one? I just got one used off a Honda for $12 bucks shipped.

[Smellii]

Yeah you're probably right but I didn't realize there were that cheap. However, the idea of having one with new components (diodes etc...) for $20 or less is quite appealing also.

[kokar]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Drehstromwandler-Bruckengleichrichter-Drehstrom-DC-Wandler-90A-1000V-SQL90A-NEU-/130590653615?pt=Bauteile&hash=item1e67cf3caf#ht_2176wt_1159

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http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bruckengleichrichter-Drehstromwandler-40A-1000V-SQL40A-NEU-/190591006872?pt=Bauteile&hash=item2c601bf898#ht_2192wt_1159

the only think we need is the external stabilizer....

[Normk]

It is difficult to improve on the cost effectiveness of automotive alternator rectifiers. My favorite is the one used in Delco Remy 10SI alternators but there are others which are as handy. I prefer the type with attaching studs so that the leads need not be soldered as soldering often adds a flexing/breakage problem.

Here's a link to a 10SI photo:

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/New-Rectifier-10SI-20-SI-Delco-Alternator-/230634209246?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35b2debfde

BTW, there is a listing for a positive ground 10SI rectifier lower down but have never seen one in service. Anyone have experience with a positive ground 12 V. application as I thought they went away with 1950's English cars?

These rectifiers are three phase and can handle up to 100 amps. depending on the unit. The smallest 10SI alternator I can recall were 37 amp. which would be more than adequate rectifier capacity although I'm willing to bet a box of donuts (one box, first come, you collect ) that the 37 amp. rectifiers aren't made today.

Many alternators use larger capacity rectifiers but which are not as easy to mount. There are 8 or 10 in my junk boxes at present but none as easy to apply as the 10SI.

The question I pose regarding the ones posted by Kakar would be whether there could be vibration fracture issues where the terminal strips enter the potting compound? As someone stated, motorcycle applications are harsh, vibration, weather, etc. are all problems. On the other side (and the reason for the question) is that the illustrated units seem to be weatherproof and easy to mount.

The rectifier is the easy one, the regulator is the problem in terms of adapting/building/matching. Almost any controlled field alternator regulator can be adapted to another regulator but this is not true of permanent magnet alternators.

I keep rolling the problem of how one might adapt a controlled field type regulator to control a permanent magnet alternator?

I very clearly understand the differences in the operation of these two alternator types so am simply intrigued by the problem.

The discussion regarding circuit types is greatly appreciated as it continues to chip away at the fog surrounding this subject.

[kokar]

I think it is better to have multiple option.

[Hacked850]

Since I'm running a sidecar on my 850 I have alot of room.Can I mount the RR anywhere??,if I buy a bigger than stock one can I just make all the wires longer and mount the RR maybe between the sidecar and the bike ( out in the wind to keep it cooler??).