Honda R/R vs MOSFET R/R

[posplayr]

Haha, I clicked and bought the MOSFET one, but I'm having second thoughts now with you guys saying to go with the SERIES type R/R...Maybe I should email the seller and upgrade?

The COMPUFIRE is also Series but smaller to 40 amps.

[salty_monk]

Is this really the case? (*from that website listed above)

IMPORTANT!!! Series Regulators unload your stator but the heat has to go somewhere, the regulator is where it ends up!! These series regulators have to be in the airflow so get them out in front if you can. Don't put them under your seat or tail section they need cooling.

I thought the whole point of the series is that it switches off the stator so no current flow. If no current flow then why would there be more heat??

[BlackStar]

Is this really the case? (*from that website listed above)

IMPORTANT!!! Series Regulators unload your stator but the heat has to go somewhere, the regulator is where it ends up!! These series regulators have to be in the airflow so get them out in front if you can. Don't put them under your seat or tail section they need cooling.

I thought the whole point of the series is that it switches off the stator so no current flow. If no current flow then why would there be more heat??

I'm a little puzzled why they get so hot. I don't know how hot they get, just going by description. Apparently they get hotter than the switching shunt types. I'm wandering if they are a linear regulator, which would definately get hot. The manufacturers are tight lipped. I would expect them to be a switching regulator, some type of buck regulator, perhaps with syncronous or controlled rectifiers. This would definately run cooler than a linear regulator and perhaps cooler than a switching shunt regulator.
These may not be good for stators with marginal insulation, when you unload the stator, the voltage rises. If you have weak insulation this can cause dielectric breakdown in the form of arcing or leakage. Let us know how it works out.

BTW, Jet engines use the same type of alternator for FADEC power, only we call it a PMG (permanent magnet generator) and yes it is possible to manufacture reliable regulator systems for these, both shunt and series types.

[tom203]

Is this really the case? (*from that website listed above)

IMPORTANT!!! Series Regulators unload your stator but the heat has to go somewhere, the regulator is where it ends up!! These series regulators have to be in the airflow so get them out in front if you can. Don't put them under your seat or tail section they need cooling.

I thought the whole point of the series is that it switches off the stator so no current flow. If no current flow then why would there be more heat??

Yes, I read that and was curious. Up thru 81, the headlight switch could disable one stator phase,which cuts stator output significantly- whereas current could normally flow A-B, B-A, A-C, C-A, B-C,C-B, if you open circuit phase C, then current can only flow A-B and B-A. Perhaps, the series regulators are duplicating this on/off switching feature thereby lowering stator current, but at the expense of lots of internal R/R heat that needs to be dissipated. I'm curious as to how hot a compufire series unit gets in comparison to this ebay seller's series unit.

[salty_monk]

It's a cycle electrics unit - there are a couple of people on here using them. The Compufire is slightly smaller & $20 or so more expensive.

[Clone]

Check out the replacement R/R thread in tips, there are a multitude of onesthat will fit. The Arctic Cat one on my bike is so far so good. Gotta go knock on wood

[salty_monk]

That must be a Shindengen FH012 or similar right? A Mosfet. Loads of bikes use them.

You need to change your Signature... Bwringer is trying to get a VX out of his stable, perhaps you should pair up

[payjay314]

Just got my FH012AAA today in the mail...Man this sucker is huge. It was much bigger than I expected, but it looked like it could take a beating. Now how do I install it,lol? I have an idea, but if some can post me their setup or send me a link it would be much appreciated...

[payjay314]

NVM...I figured it out...

[2BRacing]

Mr payjay 314

Looking at the pictures you posted earlier of your separate R + R, they show the classic signs of electrical system problems, namely:

• acid attack of battery cage possibly due to overflow after overcharging from faulty regulator
• severe overheating of connectors (black burns on plastic covers)
• corroded terminal connectors
• corroded terminals on starter solenoid

I suggest that if you have not done so already, that you properly clean all the electrical connectors and earth points on your bike before fitting and running your new R/R, or you could end up having the same electrical/charging problems again. Those corroded connections cause high resistance, voltage loss and overheating of connections and your new R/R will never be able to do its job correctly if you have not sorted out all the connectors.

[Nessism]

As for the wiring...it's best to bypass the factory harness when it comes to the charging system and start fresh. Wire the stator directly into the new R/R using new spade connectors. Do NOT connect your stator into the factory harness since Suzuki made one of their few design errors regarding this (well covered in countless threads now in the archives). The R/R needs proper grounding as well (also well covered in archived threads). The one area where you can go back into the old harness is the power out wire of the R/R; feeding back into the fuse box should be fine, unless your fuse box is corroded. Jim Posplayer put together some good info regarding this so please check Basscliff's site for the link. You can also just bypass the fuse box entirely and run a simple in-line fuse in the power out to the battery. This is very simple and foolproof method.

Please take some time and look though Cliff's site for pertinent links, and check the archives here for tons more info. It gets old repeating ones self again and again on these repetitive problem threads.

[Clone]

That must be a Shindengen FH012 or similar right? A Mosfet. Loads of bikes use them.

You need to change your Signature... Bwringer is trying to get a VX out of his stable, perhaps you should pair up

Don't want his he crashed it!

[payjay314]

Thanks for the tips guys!!! I was planning on going through the whole harness and checking for any problems and replacing any faulty/corroded connections with spade type...This will be before I install the R/R.