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    battery is dead...already

    Just put a new battery in last thursday and tonight the bike wouldnt start. I am a novice bike mechanic, where do I start

    the bike is a 81 GS850G

    thanks

    #2
    Ed

    To measure is to know.

    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

    Comment


      #3
      That was difficult to read LOL

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by MikesChevelle View Post
        That was difficult to read LOL
        Want me to hold your hand and sing a lullaby?
        Ed

        To measure is to know.

        Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

        Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

        Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

        KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

        Comment


          #5
          ? no?

          I got the gist of it, there was a lot of tangents and odd analogies in there.

          Is that ok??

          Comment


            #6
            Charge up your battery, break out your VOM and get to it

            It's a common issue with the GS charging system
            1978 GS 1000 (since new)
            1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
            1978 GS 1000 (parts)
            1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
            1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
            1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
            2007 DRz 400S
            1999 ATK 490ES
            1994 DR 350SES

            Comment


              #7
              what i didnt gather, do i need to check/replace the alternator or rectifyer or is the issue tend to be in the wiring?

              Comment


                #8
                http://www.thegsresources.com/garage/gs_statorfacts.htm please read again.
                81 gs 1100 E One owner,Me.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Wow thanks for pointing out something I said I already had trouble understanding??

                  I stated in my first post I am a novice, and then stated that I had trouble understanding that article. Thanks for your valuable input.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by MikesChevelle View Post
                    Wow thanks for pointing out something I said I already had trouble understanding??

                    I stated in my first post I am a novice, and then stated that I had trouble understanding that article. Thanks for your valuable input.
                    Sorry for being so harsh. To answer your question, yes it could be your stator, rectifier,it could also be in the wiring.If you can work a computer,you can fix your problem.Please read again you will find the answers and there is plenty of folk who have more knowledge then I that might chime in. Good Luck,I think you can do it.
                    81 gs 1100 E One owner,Me.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      It's not that hard. Get a volt meter and follow the flow chart.

                      Ed

                      To measure is to know.

                      Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                      Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                      Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                      KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                      Comment


                        #12
                        If you don't have a meter, Harbor Freight usually has them for under ten dollars. It is easy to mess up with the probes in the stator wires and to not make a good electrical connection. Bad connection makes a bad reading.

                        The wires in question are under the left side cover. The ones from the stator ae the three comming up from the top of the motor by the "Y" in the frame. More than likely you have a bad stator and or regulator. Bad connections and bad grounds tend to bring this about.
                        Last edited by 850 Combat; 10-21-2011, 12:02 PM.
                        sigpic Too old, too many bikes, too many cars, too many things

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Sheesh....

                          You'll have to excuse some of these guys. They seem to forget that not everyone is an expert like they are, or that at one point they didn't know jack either.

                          Lemme preface this by saying I'm NOT an expert, niether in GSes, nor electrical design. And the Stator Papers can be a bit like reading stereo instructions if you're not familiar with either.

                          The main components in a GS charging system are the Stator, the charging rotor, which is basically a set of magnets that reside on the left end of the crank and spin around the stator. Also the regulator and rectifier (refered to as the R/R most times) and your battery.
                          The job of the RR is two fold. The regulator basically is in charge of how much of the voltage generated by the generator (the stator and rotor are sometimes refered to as a generator as a unit) is allowed to pass to the battery. Typically the stator puts out way more voltage than the battery needs to charge. If the battery were to receive all that voltage it would over-charge and ruin the battery (usually boils off all te water) and then take out other components in the electrical system. The regulator is basically a switch that shuts on and off many times per second. When the battery needs charging it allows it to pass through, when it doesn't it shunts the power to ground. This action tends to create heat, which can damage the RR. The GSes had a rather weak RR from the factory. Also years of corrosion on the wiring connectors from the stator to the RR and grounds etc generates resistance, which also causes more heat.

                          If you take more time in following the stator papers it will show you how to test the different components in the system for failure.

                          You may have one or more problems. Either your RR has failed and has boiled off the battery (which usually takes a little longer than what you've stated) or your RR has failed and simply isn't "opening" to allow current to pass to the battery. ORrrr your stator has failed and one or more "legs" aren't putting out any or enough current to charge the battery.

                          Give it another read, see if it makes more sense now, and if so you can use a volt meter to test the bits. If it doesn't, feel free to ask more questions.
                          Volt meters can be picked up cheap at harbor freight or autozone or where ever. Doesn't have to be fancy.

                          All of us started somewhere and only learned by reading and asking questions.
                          Some people simply don't want to try to learn, and expect people to tell them what to do. It gets frustrating to some of us who've been here a while.
                          But even those who wish to learn and DO read sometimes need a little more than a link. Sometimes some of us tend to forget not everyone has experience with every aspect on a bike.
                          So don't take it personally. And maybe some of us will remember back when we first started learning and pull the stick out of our butts...

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by TheCafeKid View Post
                            Sheesh....

                            You'll have to excuse some of these guys. They seem to forget that not everyone is an expert like they are, or that at one point they didn't know jack either.

                            Lemme preface this by saying I'm NOT an expert, niether in GSes, nor electrical design. And the Stator Papers can be a bit like reading stereo instructions if you're not familiar with either.

                            The main components in a GS charging system are the Stator, the charging rotor, which is basically a set of magnets that reside on the left end of the crank and spin around the stator. Also the regulator and rectifier (refered to as the R/R most times) and your battery.
                            The job of the RR is two fold. The regulator basically is in charge of how much of the voltage generated by the generator (the stator and rotor are sometimes refered to as a generator as a unit) is allowed to pass to the battery. Typically the stator puts out way more voltage than the battery needs to charge. If the battery were to receive all that voltage it would over-charge and ruin the battery (usually boils off all te water) and then take out other components in the electrical system. The regulator is basically a switch that shuts on and off many times per second. When the battery needs charging it allows it to pass through, when it doesn't it shunts the power to ground. This action tends to create heat, which can damage the RR. The GSes had a rather weak RR from the factory. Also years of corrosion on the wiring connectors from the stator to the RR and grounds etc generates resistance, which also causes more heat.

                            If you take more time in following the stator papers it will show you how to test the different components in the system for failure.

                            You may have one or more problems. Either your RR has failed and has boiled off the battery (which usually takes a little longer than what you've stated) or your RR has failed and simply isn't "opening" to allow current to pass to the battery. ORrrr your stator has failed and one or more "legs" aren't putting out any or enough current to charge the battery.

                            Give it another read, see if it makes more sense now, and if so you can use a volt meter to test the bits. If it doesn't, feel free to ask more questions.
                            Volt meters can be picked up cheap at harbor freight or autozone or where ever. Doesn't have to be fancy.

                            All of us started somewhere and only learned by reading and asking questions.
                            Some people simply don't want to try to learn, and expect people to tell them what to do. It gets frustrating to some of us who've been here a while.
                            But even those who wish to learn and DO read sometimes need a little more than a link. Sometimes some of us tend to forget not everyone has experience with every aspect on a bike.
                            So don't take it personally. And maybe some of us will remember back when we first started learning and pull the stick out of our butts...
                            That's what I said. not in so many words. Could have said use the search function.
                            81 gs 1100 E One owner,Me.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Hi,

                              You'll find a lot of electrical information on my little website:




                              I've collected quite a bit of stuff there from the generous gurus here. You can gain a lot of background and theoretical knowledge by going through all of the information on my little website. Please help yourself.


                              Thank you for your indulgence,

                              BassCliff

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