spark

[JStones]

Ok heres what Im working with...

Inside the ignition cover.

[JStones]

Another

2 Coils up top.

[JStones]

Obviously no points from what I know.

Mike: I do not have a kick starter. I did not see anything mounted on the airbox but honestly dont know that the igniter box would look like.

Tom: I tried replacing the fuses.


Both, proper procedure in testing coil voltage?

[tom203]

Try to follow the wiring that leaves the signal generator -this connects to ignitor box; this is probably a metal box about 2/3 the size of a cigarette pack. It won't have "fins" on it like the R/R has. Somewhere there is a plug that connects the ignitor to the signal generator- find it and clean these connections. As for coils, a one end of each coil there is a orange/white wire that powers up when ignition switch and kill switch are on-disconnect and measure the voltage between this wire and a good ground.

[JStones]

Is this the Dyna unit I need?

Dyna-S Electronic Ignition DS3-2 - Suzuki GS fours (with ND ignition) DYDS3-2
OEM: DS3-2 -
1 year factory warranty - for Suzuki 1977-81 GS550 GS750 GS850 GS1000 GS1100 GS1150 (with ND ignition) # 6 Rotor - set and forget - no more messing with points... creates a stronger more consistent spark.

1977-78 GS550 & GS750 bikes, some of these models came with a KD/KOK ignition advancer, for these bikes a different Dyna-S is required. How do you tell? Take off the points cover, the ignition advancer should be stamped with KD (Kokusan Densi) or ND (Nippon Densi). If you have a KD unit, see the DYDS3-1 igntion below.

Below are also tthe two different type points used for the KD & ND setups. Use these to determine if your bike has the KD or ND points installed.
$133.00

[JStones]

I never commented back here, The ignitor was on the bottom of the Airbox. Hell of a place to put something. Definitely sacrificed some skin to the GS gods to get a peak at it.

Ive figured out the starting/stalling pattern. The bike fires up, gets warm and dies. Wont restart until cool.

Im ordering the Dyna 3-2 below and green coils. It is something I wanted to do anyhow and I figure better to do now than need to when the nice weather comes back.

[mike_of_bbg]

Yes, the DS3-2 is what you want. Yes, mine was on the bottom of the air filter box as well, and it was not fun to remove it. You don't actually have to, though I would at least unplug it. Or, if you are going to replace the coils/wires at the same time (remember they're sold separately!) you can just put all fresh ignition wiring in there and ignore the factory wiring altogether.

One thing to look out for - the rotors with the DS3-2 are a bit shorter than the factory EI rotors (size matched for points ignition). So Dyna includes a spacer. Unfortunately, what they've been shipping for a spacer seems a bit too thick and the rotor cannot advance when the crank end bolt is tightened down. You can either:

1) Replace the spacer with a thinner washer of the appropriate inside diameter (14mm? 16mm?)
2) Sand down the spacer
3) Sand down the top of the rotor (my personal path)

IIRC, the rotor + washer ends up being about 0.6-0.8mm too tall. Exactness is not necessary. It needs to be loose enough that it won't get clamped by the crank bolt, yet tight enough that it cannot slip off the advance mechanism.

[JStones]

Can I install the green coils a while and do the Dyna S 3-2 later this winter? Do they have to be done at the same time?

[mike_of_bbg]

Well, I guess it depends which is your issue? You can use the Dyna S with the stock coils (that's how mine is set up): you don't have to replace the coils. You can use the Green coils with the stock ignition. Which of the two is giving out on you?

Can I install the green coils a while and do the Dyna S 3-2 later this winter? Do they have to be done at the same time?