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    Regultor/Rectifier GS850G

    Hello Gentlemen
    I have a 1981 GS850G Which I put a new stator and regulator rectifier in two years ago.
    This summer I couldn't help noticing my Garmin Rebooting every now and then.
    So I finally put my meter on the bike and found the output going anywhere from 12.77 to 14+ volts as I changed the rpm I am thinking maybe I have a bad regulator shouldn't it be a little more stable? Your thoughts.
    Thanks
    Bob S

    #2
    It's normal for the voltage to flucuate with rpm, up to about 4000, at which point the voltage should stabilize.

    Did you look at the service manual for details on how to judge your charging system? Did you look at the Stator Papers linked on the GSR home page?

    Tons of info in the archives here on how to check your charging system. The search feature will uncover more info that most people have an interest in reading.
    Ed

    To measure is to know.

    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

    Comment


      #3
      Thanks For the quick response.I have been around for a few years now I do a lot of listening to all the great Info and topics you gentlemen share on these bikes. I confess I have a few more GS Suzies which seem to have a steadier output Voltage wise.
      I have read the Stator papers which is a great source of info. on how these systems work we are really fortunate to have this site and all these dedicated people to help keep these bikes going.

      Comment


        #4
        Hi,

        Make sure all of the electrical connections and grounds are clean, the fuse box, ignition switch, battery terminals, stator-to-r/r connections, etc. Run the ground wire from the r/r directly to the negative terminal of the battery. Perhaps even run the r/r output directly to the positive terminal of the battery (through a 15 amp fuse).

        I've had a few r/r units on my bike and I've noticed that some are more stable than others. Is yours a 6-wire unit? The 5-wire OEM style parts can be flaky. The newer Honda (Shindengen) r/r parts are more robust and can deliver a more stable output. But the output will vary a little with the rpm speeds.


        Thank you for your indulgence,

        BassCliff

        Comment


          #5
          I will check to see if it is a 5 wire or 6. Do you have a P/N# for the honda rectifier?

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by robertseward View Post
            I will check to see if it is a 5 wire or 6. Do you have a P/N# for the honda rectifier?
            Head to Basscliff's site for list of compatible R/R's- many to choose from and they are all over ebay. Shindengen is the brand name; proven very reliable since their entrance in late 70's.
            1981 gs650L

            "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by BassCliff View Post
              Hi,

              Make sure all of the electrical connections and grounds are clean, the fuse box, ignition switch, battery terminals, stator-to-r/r connections, etc. Run the ground wire from the r/r directly to the negative terminal of the battery. Perhaps even run the r/r output directly to the positive terminal of the battery (through a 15 amp fuse).

              I've had a few r/r units on my bike and I've noticed that some are more stable than others. Is yours a 6-wire unit? The 5-wire OEM style parts can be flaky. The newer Honda (Shindengen) r/r parts are more robust and can deliver a more stable output. But the output will vary a little with the rpm speeds.


              Thank you for your indulgence,

              BassCliff

              Take note here of Cliff's excellent post: clean up the charging system wiring and bypass the factory harness. The stock harness sends one leg of the stator up to the head lamp switch, and this wire often over heats and adds a bunch of resistance into the circuit. Eliminate that circuit, improving the grounding, and run power out to the battery with a fuse inline and you will be miles ahead.
              Ed

              To measure is to know.

              Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

              Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

              Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

              KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

              Comment

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