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Quick question about front brake light switch.
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Smellii
Quick question about front brake light switch.
I took apart the brake light switch to clean it and although it works now the switch doesn't engage until the lever is about 50% in. I think I may have installed it backwards. I installed it so the wire exits the switch towards the rear of the bike. It's not obvious from the manual or online pics I have. Is this correct? Thanks.
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If it works you put it on right.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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Smellii
Perfect. Loosened the screws and slid it over a bit. The switch engages much sooner now. Thanks, Agemax! Never would have thought of that.
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gabriel
SOS with the brake light switch
Hi, new to this forum. Need a bit of help with my front brake light switch. I took the switch off thinking it would be one piece unit (i know, i know, my bad) and realized it isn't. now trying to put it back in and not sure how it goes (again, in a rush to finish the front end, thinking this would be easy to clean off, i didn't bother to pay attention to how it was in there before taking it off.....lesson learned). The plastic part with the spring and the copper back looks like it goes straight "up" into the master cylinder lever housing, instead of pointing towards the lever. Is this right? And if it does go straight "up " into the housing, does it go in towards the back (towards the brake line) or in the middle? I tried towards the front (towards the lever) and wound up braking this plastic part (which I am replacing). I know its a stupid move on my part, but any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
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Smellii
Sounds like you have the right idea but I can't remember exactly if it goes in towards the outside or inside of the bike. My advice is once you get it in there and test it out, if it doesn't work properly then loosen the screws a bit and slide the assembly left or right to adjust where it makes contact. Good luck. Hope someone else responds.
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mike_of_bbg
First, Gabriel, welcome. I see this is your first and only post. A member here, BassCliff, has a site where he archives lots of good articles on GS-specific repairs. If you post and introduce yourself in the GS Owners forum surely he will come along and give you his "mega-welcome". In the meantime, his site is here:
And this article in particular may prove quite useful to you:
It's helpful if you can to flip the master cylinder over. There's a groove in the handle where the plastic tab on the little spring part goes - and yes it does go straight up/down with the plastic part up. If you can't flip it over, some grease might help to hold it in place.
Originally posted by gabriel View PostHi, new to this forum. Need a bit of help with my front brake light switch. I took the switch off thinking it would be one piece unit (i know, i know, my bad) and realized it isn't. now trying to put it back in and not sure how it goes (again, in a rush to finish the front end, thinking this would be easy to clean off, i didn't bother to pay attention to how it was in there before taking it off.....lesson learned). The plastic part with the spring and the copper back looks like it goes straight "up" into the master cylinder lever housing, instead of pointing towards the lever. Is this right? And if it does go straight "up " into the housing, does it go in towards the back (towards the brake line) or in the middle? I tried towards the front (towards the lever) and wound up braking this plastic part (which I am replacing). I know its a stupid move on my part, but any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
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gabriel
Originally posted by Smellii View PostSounds like you have the right idea but I can't remember exactly if it goes in towards the outside or inside of the bike. My advice is once you get it in there and test it out, if it doesn't work properly then loosen the screws a bit and slide the assembly left or right to adjust where it makes contact. Good luck. Hope someone else responds.
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mike_of_bbg
FYI, the switch on the clutch perch should be exactly the same. You can bypass the clutch switch by following the wires from that switch into the headlight bucked, unplugging them and plugging the two harness ends in to each other. Just make sure you don't start the bike in gear without pulling in the clutch
Rob the clutch perch switch and voila, you have a replacement part.
Originally posted by gabriel View PostOnce I get that replacement part...
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On the brown waffle board the wires attatch to youll see a round raised area...that faces toward the sterring stem..that raised area lifts the metal connector off the two rails and breaks the connection when you let loose of the handle.MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.
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gabriel
Originally posted by mike_of_bbg View PostFirst, Gabriel, welcome. I see this is your first and only post. A member here, BassCliff, has a site where he archives lots of good articles on GS-specific repairs. If you post and introduce yourself in the GS Owners forum surely he will come along and give you his "mega-welcome". In the meantime, his site is here:
And this article in particular may prove quite useful to you:
It's helpful if you can to flip the master cylinder over. There's a groove in the handle where the plastic tab on the little spring part goes - and yes it does go straight up/down with the plastic part up. If you can't flip it over, some grease might help to hold it in place.
Mr Mike of bbg, That is exactly what I needed to see. My friend, you have saved me a lot of heartache. I am very impressed with the ultra quick responses in this forum. Hopefully in time I will be able to contribute as well. Thanks again for the solution, and also for the very warm welcome!
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gabriel
Originally posted by mike_of_bbg View PostFYI, the switch on the clutch perch should be exactly the same. You can bypass the clutch switch by following the wires from that switch into the headlight bucked, unplugging them and plugging the two harness ends in to each other. Just make sure you don't start the bike in gear without pulling in the clutch
Rob the clutch perch switch and voila, you have a replacement part.
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Smellii
I was in your shoes a few weeks ago when I had a spare twenty minutes to clean the contacts in my headlight/turn signal switch assembly; popped it off and springs and bits went flying. Ended up being a six hour job and had to sacrifice various household items for adequate replacement parts I never did find. Point is that we have all been there. Lesson learned: plastic bag over the assembly for dissasembly. hehe.
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