.png "Powered by vBulletin")
this is moved from a previous thread http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=154528
basically This is for a bike with a 3 prong set-up, 2 indicator lamps on you dash, and auto disengage function.
My Suzi has 2 prongs, no auto disengage that I can see
. . .as a professional driver for over 20 years I can think of nothing less desirable, as I constantly hit my directional to the opposite side when I drive a cage ( Big trucks do not have an auto disengage function), and a single indicator light on my dash.
as mentioned in the above thread, and this one http://members.dslextreme.com/users/...-ends.html#A14
when switching over to LED the old thermal style turn signal generators read the low resistance from the LED's as a dead lamp and leave the lights steady on to let you know it's time to change the lamp,so you need to switch to a generator that is made for L.E.D.s. Easy enough you say, and true enough, you can scoot down to the local auto parts store and buy a new generator, usually the square kind, for about 12 bucks, the problem is that (at least at the 3 stores I checked) LED generators are all 3 pronged!
I decided to throw caution to the wind and randomly grabbed a generator designed to replace part number E.P.34 ether by luck or design the 2 prongs from my bike where a perfect match for the 2 prongs on the generator that I would be sending back to the bike!
stock is comprised of 2 wires 1 hot into the generator, then 1 out to the signal switch on the handlebars where a ground then decides which side receives the signal. Of course my new generator has 3 prongs what to do with that 3rd prong
turns out the 3rd fella is a ground for the generator on the model I bought, a 16-14 awg female blade fits just right over it so with a short length of 14 agw wire and a ring connector you have a happy little jumper and boom you bike now will flash LEDs in all 4 signals, no matter what direction you chose, relax your 1/2 way there.
now if you haven't looked at MR. Matchless' diagram look now, he has a fix in the form of a couple of Diodes. seems that indicator light supplied just enough resistance with incandescent lamps but with all that shiny new free flowing electricity provided buy the lower impedance LED lamps it simply completes the whole thing as a circuit.
It's easy enough to get to the lamps in the dash, pull the headlight bolts, and 3 screws later you can pull just the middle part out to install your diodes or if you me just pull the lamp, name it Arther, and call it art
works great!
In the future I'm thinking I'll add a switch between the dash leads then if I need them I can have effective hazard lights
If your a kind of a lazy rider, I wouldn't recommend bypassing the auto disengage, and certainly not a dash indicator light!
but if you ride like a grown-up and pay attention to what your doing, but feel that LED lighting upgrades make sense for safety and power conservation this might be a good fix.
on model EP34 the 3 prongs are as such, with the middle prong on top:
B- power from the bike (left)
L-lamp to the bike (top)
E-ground to the battery (right)
if this somehow offends you remember, Suzi's a (L)
for the rest of you I hope this is in some way helpful.
basically This is for a bike with a 3 prong set-up, 2 indicator lamps on you dash, and auto disengage function.
My Suzi has 2 prongs, no auto disengage that I can see
. . .as a professional driver for over 20 years I can think of nothing less desirable, as I constantly hit my directional to the opposite side when I drive a cage ( Big trucks do not have an auto disengage function), and a single indicator light on my dash.as mentioned in the above thread, and this one http://members.dslextreme.com/users/...-ends.html#A14
when switching over to LED the old thermal style turn signal generators read the low resistance from the LED's as a dead lamp and leave the lights steady on to let you know it's time to change the lamp,so you need to switch to a generator that is made for L.E.D.s. Easy enough you say, and true enough, you can scoot down to the local auto parts store and buy a new generator, usually the square kind, for about 12 bucks, the problem is that (at least at the 3 stores I checked) LED generators are all 3 pronged!
I decided to throw caution to the wind and randomly grabbed a generator designed to replace part number E.P.34 ether by luck or design the 2 prongs from my bike where a perfect match for the 2 prongs on the generator that I would be sending back to the bike!
stock is comprised of 2 wires 1 hot into the generator, then 1 out to the signal switch on the handlebars where a ground then decides which side receives the signal. Of course my new generator has 3 prongs what to do with that 3rd prong
turns out the 3rd fella is a ground for the generator on the model I bought, a 16-14 awg female blade fits just right over it so with a short length of 14 agw wire and a ring connector you have a happy little jumper and boom you bike now will flash LEDs in all 4 signals, no matter what direction you chose, relax your 1/2 way there. now if you haven't looked at MR. Matchless' diagram look now, he has a fix in the form of a couple of Diodes. seems that indicator light supplied just enough resistance with incandescent lamps but with all that shiny new free flowing electricity provided buy the lower impedance LED lamps it simply completes the whole thing as a circuit.
It's easy enough to get to the lamps in the dash, pull the headlight bolts, and 3 screws later you can pull just the middle part out to install your diodes or if you me just pull the lamp, name it Arther, and call it art
works great! In the future I'm thinking I'll add a switch between the dash leads then if I need them I can have effective hazard lights
If your a kind of a lazy rider, I wouldn't recommend bypassing the auto disengage, and certainly not a dash indicator light!
but if you ride like a grown-up and pay attention to what your doing, but feel that LED lighting upgrades make sense for safety and power conservation this might be a good fix.
on model EP34 the 3 prongs are as such, with the middle prong on top:
B- power from the bike (left)
L-lamp to the bike (top)
E-ground to the battery (right)
if this somehow offends you remember, Suzi's a (L)
for the rest of you I hope this is in some way helpful.