Yesterday, I pulled the fuseblock to take a look in detail. I'm glad I did. The wiring behind the headlight fuse was badly corroded:
I had several of the Delphi 4 fuse elevated panels around from other wiring projects. I used one of these in each of the Vetter fairings for power distribution there, and will do the same on this one eventually. They were too long to fit onto the plate on the side of the battery box, but they were not too tall to interfere with the side cover. The blocks can be had for $5~10 each, and they snap together for more than 4 circuits. I'm using two for eight circuits.
Any good project has a plan, so here's mine:
This is a fairly involved project, as I will be taking apart the original fuseblock connector and reusing the shell- plug and play. I'll also be cutting and drilling an aluminum bracket to mount the blocks. Finally, I'll be crimping and soldering terminals onto wire. Most cheap parts store wire pliers won't do a really good job here. If you do any amount of wiring, invest in a quality pair of pliers. I use a Milbar 25E. I also use wire-stripping pliers- the kind where you place the wire in the jaws and pull the handle. Again, not really cheap, but a real time saver.
The procedure is not complete, but I wanted to start writing this up while I was doing it. I didn't have enough parts on hand to complete it, but with the stuff I did have, you can see how to complete the project. I will update the thread once it is completed.
I'll start with a parts, wire, tools, and supplies list. This procedure is for after you have removed and unplugged the old fuseblock. Other models will likely have different wire colors.
Parts-
2 x Fuseblocks, Delphi PN 12004943
2 x Pack-Con 3 bus terminal, 4 connector, PN 12004568, about $5 each
8 x Pack-Con 3 connectors PN 12020400
2 x (each) Weatherpack single pin connector with seals and 12 gauge terminals, connector PN 12010996, 12015791, seal PN 15324981, terminals PN 12124581 and 12124587 (this connects the battery to the fuseblock and the main power feed from the block)
4 x .250 female terminals with lock tabs, Delphi PN 2962447
2 x 12mm 6mm socket head bolts (mounts aluminum bracket)
1 x 25mm 6mm socket head bolt (mounts top of blocks to panel)
4 x 6mm flat washers (stainless or brass preferred)
2 x 1/4-20 x .75" long bolts, lock washers, and nuts
Socket head bolts can be had cheaply at Allen's Fasteners or at your local hardware store.
1 x 5/16 thread nut used as a spacer (stainless preferred)
6" of 2" wide 1/8" thick aluminum (adapter panel), you will cut to fit
Wire-
Don't use parts store wire! It's cheap and will eventually fail. It is not made to stand up to the mobile environment. Use automotive rated GXL or SXL wire from a vendor such as JM Products. Inexpensive quality wire, not so cheap shipping. Another vendor with more color options is KayJayCo. I have not used them, but their prices look to be decent, and they have a good write up about what type of wire to use.
3 feet each of 14 gauge red, orange, green, and white. ***Or as needed to match your bike***
Optional- 6 & 10 gauge for battery cable. Get red & black if possible, with matching terminals that will accept a 6mm (or .250") bolt.
Tools-
10mm socket
Phillips screwdriver
Stripping & crimping pliers
Solder gun w/ rosin core solder
Drill with 1/4 and 9/32" drill bits
Hacksaw or sawzall
Mid size to large paperclip (to remove old terminals)
Supplies-
Sandpaper or wire wheel/brush
Rust killer
Black paint (I like Rustoleum)
Overview-
The original fuseblock has 5 circuits and mounts using two holes. Of the 5 circuits, 4 are actually used and one is for an accessory. Of the 5, two are hot at all times (battery feed), and the other 3 are only powered when the ignition is on (switched). The replacement blocks will offer 8 circuits. 4 each will be battery and switched. We'll be replacing not only the fuseblock, but the wiring as well, and we'll reuse the connector so it will plug in. We'll do away with the bullet connector that connects the battery to the block and replace it with a superior Weatherpack connector.
The switched circuits (3) and the power feed for the switched side comes through a Molex 4 terminal connector. The battery feed and main circuit output come in and out via bullet connectors.
To physically mount these blocks, a short piece of aluminum must be fabricated to run diagonally across the original mounting holes. It will then extend down far enough to allow the bottom holes of the new blocks to be used.
The new blocks will barely allow use of a 6mm screw, which is what all of those little Phillips head screws on the mounting plate are. I dislike Philips head screws, so we'll be replacing most of them with socket head screws.
Procedure will follow in the next post.
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