Another fuseblock thread (1980 1000G)

[Guest]

My 1980 1000G arrived this week, and the first problem I found was the lights didn't work. Checking the fuse, it was badly corroded. A little filing of the terminals and a new fuse and they worked.

Yesterday, I pulled the fuseblock to take a look in detail. I'm glad I did. The wiring behind the headlight fuse was badly corroded:


I had several of the Delphi 4 fuse elevated panels around from other wiring projects. I used one of these in each of the Vetter fairings for power distribution there, and will do the same on this one eventually. They were too long to fit onto the plate on the side of the battery box, but they were not too tall to interfere with the side cover. The blocks can be had for $5~10 each, and they snap together for more than 4 circuits. I'm using two for eight circuits.

Any good project has a plan, so here's mine:


This is a fairly involved project, as I will be taking apart the original fuseblock connector and reusing the shell- plug and play. I'll also be cutting and drilling an aluminum bracket to mount the blocks. Finally, I'll be crimping and soldering terminals onto wire. Most cheap parts store wire pliers won't do a really good job here. If you do any amount of wiring, invest in a quality pair of pliers. I use a Milbar 25E. I also use wire-stripping pliers- the kind where you place the wire in the jaws and pull the handle. Again, not really cheap, but a real time saver.

The procedure is not complete, but I wanted to start writing this up while I was doing it. I didn't have enough parts on hand to complete it, but with the stuff I did have, you can see how to complete the project. I will update the thread once it is completed.

I'll start with a parts, wire, tools, and supplies list. This procedure is for after you have removed and unplugged the old fuseblock. Other models will likely have different wire colors.

Parts-
2 x Fuseblocks, Delphi PN 12004943
2 x Pack-Con 3 bus terminal, 4 connector, PN 12004568, about $5 each
8 x Pack-Con 3 connectors PN 12020400
2 x (each) Weatherpack single pin connector with seals and 12 gauge terminals, connector PN 12010996, 12015791, seal PN 15324981, terminals PN 12124581 and 12124587 (this connects the battery to the fuseblock and the main power feed from the block)
4 x .250 female terminals with lock tabs, Delphi PN 2962447
2 x 12mm 6mm socket head bolts (mounts aluminum bracket)
1 x 25mm 6mm socket head bolt (mounts top of blocks to panel)
4 x 6mm flat washers (stainless or brass preferred)
2 x 1/4-20 x .75" long bolts, lock washers, and nuts

Socket head bolts can be had cheaply at Allen's Fasteners or at your local hardware store.

1 x 5/16 thread nut used as a spacer (stainless preferred)

6" of 2" wide 1/8" thick aluminum (adapter panel), you will cut to fit

Wire-
Don't use parts store wire! It's cheap and will eventually fail. It is not made to stand up to the mobile environment. Use automotive rated GXL or SXL wire from a vendor such as JM Products. Inexpensive quality wire, not so cheap shipping. Another vendor with more color options is KayJayCo. I have not used them, but their prices look to be decent, and they have a good write up about what type of wire to use.

3 feet each of 14 gauge red, orange, green, and white. ***Or as needed to match your bike***

Optional- 6 & 10 gauge for battery cable. Get red & black if possible, with matching terminals that will accept a 6mm (or .250") bolt.

Tools-
10mm socket
Phillips screwdriver
Stripping & crimping pliers
Solder gun w/ rosin core solder
Drill with 1/4 and 9/32" drill bits
Hacksaw or sawzall
Mid size to large paperclip (to remove old terminals)

Supplies-
Sandpaper or wire wheel/brush
Rust killer
Black paint (I like Rustoleum)

Overview-
The original fuseblock has 5 circuits and mounts using two holes. Of the 5 circuits, 4 are actually used and one is for an accessory. Of the 5, two are hot at all times (battery feed), and the other 3 are only powered when the ignition is on (switched). The replacement blocks will offer 8 circuits. 4 each will be battery and switched. We'll be replacing not only the fuseblock, but the wiring as well, and we'll reuse the connector so it will plug in. We'll do away with the bullet connector that connects the battery to the block and replace it with a superior Weatherpack connector.

The switched circuits (3) and the power feed for the switched side comes through a Molex 4 terminal connector. The battery feed and main circuit output come in and out via bullet connectors.

To physically mount these blocks, a short piece of aluminum must be fabricated to run diagonally across the original mounting holes. It will then extend down far enough to allow the bottom holes of the new blocks to be used.

The new blocks will barely allow use of a 6mm screw, which is what all of those little Phillips head screws on the mounting plate are. I dislike Philips head screws, so we'll be replacing most of them with socket head screws.

Procedure will follow in the next post.

[GS1000G Shopper]

Part 2- procedure

Procedure-
DISCONNECT & REMOVE THE BATTERY
Look at the following picture for an overview of all of the parts. The picture after that one has the aluminum bracket after it was cut, drilled, and painted. To make the bracket, lay your aluminum across the plate, and allow enough to where you can drill 1/4" holes in it where the original mounts were. You can test-fit the blocks while you are doing this. I'd suggest going ahead and drilling them out so they will accept a 1/4" bolt. You may be able to use a 1/4" bit, but I used a 9/32" here to they would fit easier.




It is easier to do this than for me to try and tell you how to do it. The goal is to have the end of the aluminum down far enough that both blocks lower holes are covered. Once you have everything marked, drill out the holes (4) with the 1/4" bit. Note that the 1/4-20 bolts must go in with their heads under the plate, otherwise you won't have enough clearance to mount the plate. Once you have a good fit, you can mark the aluminum to the outline of the plate and trim away excess parts. The piece in the photo looks odd, but when it is in place you'll see how well it fits. Use the short 12mm long socket head bolts with a washer in the original holes.

On the other end, you'll use the 25mm long socket head bolt, with one of the washers on each side of the block's hole and the 5/16 nut underneath. The goal here is to make the blocks level due to the drop off on the plate. My bike had a wire retainer fastened here, and it fits nicely under the 5/16 nut. At this point, you should have something like this:


So now the physical assembly is completed. On to the wiring.

Using the above diagram, you can see where all the circuits will go. Unless you have orange wire with white and green stripes, you'll have to substitute. I used green for the orange/green, and white for the orange/white. I also stepped this wire up to 14 gauge from the smaller 18 gauge that was there. If you use quality wire, 18 gauge will be no problem. I usually overkill on wiring projects.

When I pulled the old wires out of the connector, I did so one at a time, and replaced each one so the wires could not be crossed. I only had one of the 4 terminal bus bars on hand, so I only wired up the switched side. The battery side wires exactly the same.

Using one of the 4 terminal bus bar connectors, trim the ends with wire cutters until it will slide into the new block. Don't push it in too far or you can't get it back out. It will be on the left side of the right hand block. Using the old connector & wires as a guide, cut 4 wires to this length- 2 x orange, 1 each white and green. Strip about 1/4" off the ends. Crimp and solder one of the orange wires to one end of the bus bar. On the other end of this wire, crimp and solder one of the .250" female connectors. You can then make up the other 3 wires using this same process- you'll use one of the single Pack-Con 3 terminals on one end, and a .250" female on the other.

To take apart the old connector, look at the end of it. You'll see a small notch above the terminals. Carefully slide in your paperclip so that the tab on top of the old terminal is pressed down. With the paperclip still n place, pull out the old terminal. If it doesn't come out, you don't have the paperclip in far enough or it is off center. As you pull one out, put the matching new one back in. Caution- there were two orange wires on my old block. I pulled on one through the plastic sleeve while holding the connector so I was sure it was the same one at the connector end. Do the wires one at a time and you'll have the same layout as stock.

*** If your wires are a different color, feel free to deviate from the white, green, and orange wires. The goal is to make it simple if someone else has to work on it in the future.***

You can then plug in the new terminals to the fuse block so they are in the same place as the old ones (this helps since as of this writing I can't find a cover for these blocks- you can use the owners/shop manuals to determine what each fuse does). After I did this, I had something that looked like this:


Repeat this process for the battery side. You'll be adding the Weatherpack connectors on the wires coming into the block from the battery and going out. These replace the existing bullet connectors.

With a little finesse, the plate will fit back on with the battery box in place. Plug in your fuses, reconnect the battery, and see how it works.

[GS1000G Shopper]

Here's the new positive cable next to the old one:

[willie]

Excellent write up and very timely as I'm about to undertake a similar project on my GT750. I was leaning towards 18 AWG though instead of the 14 that you're using.
Thanks for all the pics and details.
Willie

[GS1000G Shopper]

The 4 bus Pack-Con piece arrived and I've finished most of the electrical work. I'm waiting on the Compufire R/R to get here since I have all this apart.

Below is a pic of the finished product. Some notes-
1. The large black wire is a ground to the frame. It's like 8 gauge, and came off a wiring harness I had laying around. I was going to make something similar using 10 gauge wire. It connects to one of the motor mount bolts to the frame, and then to one of the lower bolts on the fuseblock. I then have a 1/4-20 bolt for easy grounding.
2. The wires at the bottom will go to my trickle charger. I use these on all of my vehicles via a Weather-Pack connector. It uses one of the battery side fuses.
3. To the right are two Weather-Pack connectors. One goes to the battery + cable and feeds the battery side of the block, and the other goes to the fairing power and main circuit in the Suzuki harness. I have labels on all of the wires except the OEM replacement ones- and in a lesson learned from Tim the Tool Man, I didn't use pencil.

The assembly will be able to be detached in a similar manner to the OEM one.

The block has 7 of the 8 slots filled! The nice thing is the battery won't be overloaded (physically not electrically) with terminals like my red bike is. Now the only extra wires will be one from the Compufire. I was tempted to run it through the last battery circuit, but decided against doing so. It will be better & easier to use a Metri-Pack inline fuse holder with it and hook it directly to the battery.

On the battery side, I have a 10 gauge outlet to power the block I'll add in the fairing, a 12 gauge outlet to the OEM main circuit harness, and an 18 gauge to the trickle charger.

On the accessory side, in addition to the three OEM circuits, I have an accessory circuit I'm running under the seat to power my heated gloves. I added a 1 pin Weatherpack there as well so I can use something else if needed.

I should have this wrapped up in a week or so depending on how long it takes the Compufire to get here.

[GS1000G Shopper]

I got everything wrapped up yesterday after the new Compufire R/R arrived.

Here's a pic of the completed job ( a few wires still need to be tied off, and the long wires are for the trickle charger which I used after the pic was taken):


The Compufire is on the job. I was a little concerned at first when I was getting readings in the 12 volt range, so I trickle charged the battery (it had been sitting a while). After doing so, the voltage sat right at 14.2 at anything over idle. The stator in this bike may be original- when I replaced the bullet connectors from it, I noted they were the proper colors according to the wiring diagram. If not original, it's likely an OEM part. The aftermarket one I replaced last year had all black wires.

[Dogma]

Good to know your charging system will never strand you, eh?

I like those fuse flocks better than what I put on mine. Nice.

[GS1000G Shopper]

I pulled the tank yesterday so I could run the 12 gauge wire from the new block to the fairing. While I was there, I pulled the substandard wires that powered the stereo & driving lights. I don't care for parts store (cheap) wire. I only use GXL or automotive grade wire- it can take the heat and resist chemicals when parts store wire will melt.

The 12 gauge wire will terminate on a 1/4-20 stainless bolt that runs through the fairing, and will provide main power as needed. I used the existing hole where the driving light wires had been to run a large gauge (#8 or so) ground wire (excess wire from the Compufire R/R install) via another 1/4-20 stainless bolt. I still need to dress the wires with some split nylon loom. Once inside, the main feed powers a waterproof relay (McMaster-Carr #9672K43) with pre-wired socket (8228K44). Not cheap, but worth it. I used the orange Vetter accessory wire to trigger the relay, and a black wire to ground it. The relay feeds another 4 unit fuseblock that I mounted inside the fairing. I plan on having the driving lights on one circuit, a 12V outlet on the other, and power for added gauges at some point- I'll add the gauges in place of the radio & speakers as I did on the red bike.

I redid all the wires in the Vetter on my ST1100, but the ones here don't seem to be too bad. I plan on running a waterproof connector of some sort so I can get some sensor feeds and the driving light wires through.

The driving lights were mounted to the engine guard and I noted there was no way to run the wires and be far enough away from the exhaust. I found where one of them had melted through- good thing it wasn't close to a ground. I relocated them to under the fairing using the forward mounting bolt.

Here's a few more pics: