Blowin' Fuses

[Scudder]

Relocated my turn signals on my gs850L, to accomodate hardbags. Basically mounted them to the tailight bracket. I'm now blowing fuses. First it was just the turn signal fuse. Then it was the tail light. Now it's the headlight, taillights and turn signals. However, as I look at the fuses... none of them are burned out. Is there a master fuse somewhere that I don't see? I know I have a short somewhere with the work on the signals and taillight. I can most likely find that problem. However, I don't understand how everthing (headlight, taillight and turn signals can be out with the fuses in tact. I appreciate the help.

Thanks,
Scudder

[tom203]

Me confused! are you actually blowing fuses or are the various lights now just not working? the main fuse feeds seperate fuses for the headlight and turn signals. doublecheck the turn signal ground wires-are they black/white?

[IanDMacDonald]

Even though the fuses look intact, they more than likely are not. Glass fuses are a pain to detect when they do not burn out properly. An impedance test will definitely tell you whether they are blown. But, my guess is that you are getting a short to ground utilizing the taillight bracket for a mount. Another scenario is that you somehow pinched a wire with the installation of the hard bags. Another question I have for you is what year your bike is?

[Steve]

Your bike has a MAIN fuse that feeds the ignition switch, which then feeds individual fuses for LIGHTS, SIGNALS and IGNITION.

Which fuse are you actually blowing? A test light will be VERY helpful here.

.

[Scudder]

The bike's a 1980 gs850L. The fuses that kept blowin' were the second fuse 10A (signals I think), and the last fuse 15A. The turn signals fuse would blow and I'd replace it and everything would be fine. Then I'd step on the rear brake pedel and the taillight would blow. Eventually through the problem solving, I stepped on the rear brake pedel and the headlight, turn signals and taillight all stopped working. The instrument panel lights still were on. However, I didn't try to start the bike to see if the ignition was not working. I expect it's the main fuse. Where is that located? Couldn't find it's location in the clymer manuel I have.

I'm sure it's my rigging of the turn signals of the taillight bracket. Probably didn't insulated the signals well enough and it's shorting out. But I do want to locate the main fuse to see if it's burned out.

Scudder

[Steve]

Your fuse panel should have five fuses and a pair of screw terminals in it.

Starting at the end away from the screw terminals, your fuses are:
10A LIGHTS
10A SIGNALS
10A IGNITION
15A MAIN
10A AUX
Screw terminals.

The LIGHTS fuse will power the headlight, tail light and instrument lights.
The SIGNALS fuse will power the turn signals, horns, brakes and oil pressure warning light.
The IGNITION fuse will power the coils and ignitor.
The MAIN fuse will feed all the others until the engine is running, then it protects the battery from the R/R.
The AUX fuse will power the + screw terminal that is next to it.

.

[Scudder]

Thank you. That helps me out going into the weekend. Hopefully the issues will be resolved.

scudder

[1_v8_merc]

I had a similar situation after installing my Signals and Relay.
It turned out to be a pinched ground wire.
The excess slack in the wire caused it to Boing up and get stuck between the seat pegs and the frame.
I was only blowing dash lights and signals.

[Scudder]

Got some new fuses and replaced all of them. Everything lights up now. Crazy, because I could not see that any of the old fuses were burned out. I haven't stepped on the rear brake pedal though. Going to fine the problem first. Thanks again.

Scudder

[Redman]

Maybe you were having more than one problem.

But Specific to the turn signals, I have found that where the wire in the t/signal comes out of that tube in the t/signal, that wires insullation can get cracked from the wire being bent over right there. Try straignting it out and look and see if insulation dammaged right there. Can somewhat fix it by pulling the light socket all the way out of the t/signal so can pull the wire all the way out of the t/signal. Put a turn or two of black tape over that area (but not too much) on the wire, then reassemble.

.

[Redman]

Got some new fuses and replaced all of them. Everything lights up now. Crazy, because I could not see that any of the old fuses were burned out. I haven't stepped on the rear brake pedal though. Going to fine the problem first. Thanks again.

Scudder

1980 850 would have the glass fuses, right?
Sometimes the fuse element can break or burn out way at the end where can not see it as is in the area of the metal cap on the end. Or sometimes the fuse element isnt really burn/melted with a big gap, but just has a small crack that you can not see if you are loooking for a big open gap.

.

[Scudder]

Yup. Glass fuses. Apparently the fuse or fuses burned out in the end covered by the metal caps. I've never seen that before, but it's good to learn that.

Scudder