GS1100GL bad stator and burned connector

[kevgs1100gl]

I have a 1982 GS1100GL with 25k miles. The original regulator was replaced last year by previous owner. I replaced the original stator (stopped working) last year (wires fried at stator). The replacement stator failed shortly afterwards; the wires were fried at the stator. Thinking it was a faulty stator, I replaced it again which yes you guessed it failed the same day (still in bike). Tying to trace wires, I found one of the connections (white/red) is burned and melted at the stator to regulator connector. Wondering where do I go from here?

More info if pertinent. After putting in new stator I could only get about 13.7 volts at 5k rpm so did no load test per clymer book since below 14volts. Found on stator wire to read 0 and the other two about 65 volts. Reconnected stator wires then nothing over 12.5 volts at battery and dropping. That when I started tracing wires and found melted connection noted above.

Any help would be appreciated, Kevin.

[Nessism]

Kevin,

Sorry for all the hassle.

The main problem with the GS charging system lays in the wiring and grounds; Suzuki ran stator power up to the LH handlebar switch, only to turn it back around on route to the R/R. Also, the R/R grounds are very poor. All this wiring develops resistance over time, which adds heat and melts wires. Not good.

Wiring the stator directly into the R/R should be considered mandatory, as should improving the R/R grounds.

There are a TON of different charging system threads around here so I don't want to repeat what's been said again and again. Please search out "stator papers" and read some of the threads in the archives to assist in testing your system.

Good luck

[BassCliff]

Greetings and Salutations!!

Hi Mr. kevgs1100gl,

Clean every electrical connection on the entire bike, fuse box, grounds, battery terminals, everything. Connect the ground wire from the r/r unit directly to the negative terminal of the battery. You'll find more information with lots of pictures on my website. Look for the stator replacement guide, the regulator/rectifier replacement guide, fusebox clean up guide, and the electrical section, etc. There is a LOT of information in the links below. Please help yourself.

Now let me dump a TON of information on you and share some GS lovin'.

I just stopped by to welcome you to the forum in my own, special way.

If there's anything you'd like to know about the Suzuki GS model bikes, and most others actually, you've come to the right place. There's a lot of knowledge and experience here in the community. Come on in and let me say "HOoooowwwDY!"....

Here is your very own magical, mystical, mythical, mind-expanding "mega-welcome". Please take notice of the "Top 10 Common Issues", "Top 15 Tips For GS Happiness", the Carb Cleanup Series, and the Stator Papers. All of these tasks must be addressed in order to have a safe, reliable machine. This is what NOT to do: Top 10 Newbie Mistakes. Now let me roll out the welcome mat for you...



Please click here for your mega-welcome, chock full of tips, suggestions, links to vendors, and other information. Then feel free to visit my little BikeCliff website where I've been collecting the wisdom of this generous community. Don't forget, we like pictures! Not you, your bike!

Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed. I will put you on my prayer list.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[tom203]

What a drag! Head to Basscliff's site for info overload on this and many other common problems. What kind of R/R is in bike now ? The stator that you replaced- was it new or used off ebay? When you say "wires were fried at stator" do you mean the windings?
The stator has a tough life-sitting in hot crankcase, getting splashed with 250 degree oil and then asked to push out 200 watts of juice which heats it even more.

[kevgs1100gl]

Thanks for all the information both on here and BassCliff site. A couple of other questions. Can the stator be checked out of the bike? My original stator tested bad in the bike and I found the insulation to the lead wires melted off right at the stator. The wires were twisted causing a short. When seperated the wires I get 0.8 ohms in all combinations. Is the stator good and can the insulation be repaired?

My replacement stator that went bad the same day I put it in is from Ricks which reads 0.7 in two combinations and 0.4 in one so makes sense that I had ~75 volts when running in two combinations and nothing in third.

Now I am cleaning/replacing connections as noted in information and will replace R/R but thought maybe I could make original stator work. Not sure what to do with two bad stators.

Kevin

[tom203]

Thanks for all the information both on here and BassCliff site. A couple of other questions. Can the stator be checked out of the bike? My original stator tested bad in the bike and I found the insulation to the lead wires melted off right at the stator. The wires were twisted causing a short. When seperated the wires I get 0.8 ohms in all combinations. Is the stator good and can the insulation be repaired?

My replacement stator that went bad the same day I put it in is from Ricks which reads 0.7 in two combinations and 0.4 in one so makes sense that I had ~75 volts when running in two combinations and nothing in third.

Now I am cleaning/replacing connections as noted in information and will replace R/R but thought maybe I could make original stator work. Not sure what to do with two bad stators.

Kevin

Review and redo the charging system tests as you clean connections. A stator disconnected from R/R should measure about .8 to 1.0 ohms between any two output wires and infinite resistance to ground ( ground being the engine/frame). A difference like you have indicates a problem stator- might have been caused by the R/R . Are you sure that you didn't get .4 ohms between two combinations and .7 ohms in the other?

Can you post pic of your present R/R ?

[kevgs1100gl]

Thanks everyone for the responses. As time allows I'm working my way through this. In Nessism response above about stator wire running to handlebar switch and coming back, I've seen similar in other responses and site info. It sounds like I should be bypassing this run. It is as simple as not hooking the stator wire to this run or do I need to physically take the run out of the wiring harness? Do this run supply power to something that needs to get it from somewhere else? I'm doing what I can in following the wire diagram. I see the wiring diagram for the '82 GS1100GL which I have is different than the '82 GS1100G. What I have shows the G/W turning into Gr and connecting to turn signal light, tach light, speedometer, etc. and ignition switch.

Kevin

[kevgs1100gl]

Its seems I've come across several different wiring diagrams for the '82 GS1100GL, not sure which one is correct. In the end not seeing the third stator wire that runs to the handlebar switch that is recommended to be bypassed. I may be misunderstanding this concept. Various posts and web info call for wiring the three stator wire directly to the r/r but what happens to the components along the way that the third wire fed?

Kevin

[tom203]

Its seems I've come across several different wiring diagrams for the '82 GS1100GL, not sure which one is correct. In the end not seeing the third stator wire that runs to the handlebar switch that is recommended to be bypassed. I may be misunderstanding this concept. Various posts and web info call for wiring the three stator wire directly to the r/r but what happens to the components along the way that the third wire fed?

Kevin

That stator wire running to headlight switch was a relic from older bikes- it just went up and back doing NOTHING along way, so wire all 3 stator wires direct to R/R and eliminate this as a problem.