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    Still having charging problems with GS450GA

    Hi all. Been away for a few months on a job assignment, but back to solve my electrical charging problem. The main problem is that the voltage across the battery does not increase as I rev up the motor to about 4k (guessing since the GS450GA does not have a tach). In fact, the voltage falls when I rev it up. If I disconnect the battery, the voltage drops to about 6-7 volts.

    So, we (my son and I) did BassCliff's stator check. It passed the passive resistance or continuity tests. Less than 2 ohms, but not zero. It passed the stator's continuity to ground test (essentially infinity on my meter). It passed the AC output test (well over 60 volts at high rev, approximating the revs by ear because again no tach).

    Based on the above, we thought the problem was the R/R. Initial test indicates that the diodes seem to be working correctly (current flow in the right direction, and no reverse flow). We used both an ohm meter and a simple light bulb probe with a 12 volt motorcycle battery. So, perhaps the regulator since the rectifier seem ok.

    Initially bought a old GS450 R/R from ebay, but it did not have the right wire plug plus one of the diodes seem to be burnt (allowing reverse flow when it shouldn't). Bought a new R/R and installed it. Didn't work. The charger was not putting out the 14+ volt with the battery connected (reading only about 12-13 volts), and 6-7 volts without the battery. Same as the original problem. Bummer.

    So, we got a little creative. We tested the DC output at the R/R with different combinations of stator connections. When all three are connected, only got about 9-10 volts when rev'd. Then we hooked only pairs. Below are the results (using Suzuki's wire coding Y=yellow; W/Bl=white with blue tracer; W/R=white with red tracer).

    Y+W/Bl+W/R connected to R/R => 9-10 volts
    Y+W/Bl connected to R/R => 13+ volts (but less than 14 volts)
    W/Bl+W/R connected to R/R => 13+ volts (but less than 14 volts)
    Y+W/R connected to R/R=> 1 volt at most !!

    I know that the color of the wire doesn't matter, and in fact they all could be yellow. I am using the coding as a way to illustrate the problem.

    So, some how when only the Y and W/R wires are connected to the R/R, they seem to cancel each other out. It could be some short between these two wires between the stator and the R/R so the current is offsetting. But, we tried the continuity test, plus additional test of the wires between the stator and the R/R. Could not detect a short.

    At this time, I am at a complete loss about what may be the problem.

    Any help, suggestions, advice, recommendations, or words of wisdom would be greatly appreciated, and save me from pulling out the few hairs I have left.

    Many thanks in advance.

    #2
    I will leap to the conclusion that your "new to You" R/R is bad; your AC output test is good, but it seems that the R/R is having difficulty combining all 3 phases and giving > 13 volts DC as rev rise. What kind/brand is it? Any pics? Passing the diode test is just a crude test( though you could see an open circuited diode), but nothing beats running high frequency AC into the diodes to ensure they are performing. And then the regulation portion has to manage this DC output.
    1981 gs650L

    "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

    Comment


      #3
      Thanks for the suggestion. I don't have a picture, but the replacement looks exactly like the original -- same physical size, cooling fins, holes, etc. It was listed as brand new from ebay, cost me about $93, which includes tax, and listed as a WAI.



      Below is the description. I did try looking quickly for an older substitute from a Honda, but did not find anything, so went this this one.

      Is there any additional test I can do?

      ================================

      HELLO YOU ARE BUYING A NEW AFTERMARKET REGULATOR RECTIFIER FOR A SUZUKI CHECK SPECS BELOW.\

      Regulator Rectifier Assy.
      12 Volt, Shunt-Type, 14.6 Vset

      Used On: (1986-83) Suzuki GS300, GS400, GS450, GR650, GS750, GS1150 Models Replaces: Suzuki 32800-33400, 32800-00A00, 32800-04A00, 32800-09300

      Notes : Terminal ID: B+, Sta, Sta, Sta, B-

      Originally posted by tom203 View Post
      I will leap to the conclusion that your "new to You" R/R is bad; your AC output test is good, but it seems that the R/R is having difficulty combining all 3 phases and giving > 13 volts DC as rev rise. What kind/brand is it? Any pics? Passing the diode test is just a crude test( though you could see an open circuited diode), but nothing beats running high frequency AC into the diodes to ensure they are performing. And then the regulation portion has to manage this DC output.

      Comment


        #4
        That pic and description of R/R does not give me a warm fuzzy feeling! Used honda R/R's and other Shindengen R/R's are all over ebay and typically sell for less than $15 plus shipping. Also,there is an outfit in CA that sells Chinese knockoffs for less than $10 new- some folks on here are using them, so they must work. I'd replace that R/R ASAP and save a few hairs.


        Added note. If you need something slightly smaller, the R/R's used on ninjas from late 1980's to 2007 are very common and were made by Shindengen .
        Last edited by tom203; 01-27-2012, 12:54 PM. Reason: more info
        1981 gs650L

        "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

        Comment


          #5
          Hi,

          I have had a stator pass all the tests, active and passive, but still fail to charge. My guess is that sometimes the windings on the stator poles gets compromised over the years. The heating/cooling cycles damage the insulation between the wires and once it is under load and/or warms up the windings short out and affect the output negatively.

          Don't be shy about replacing all the connectors either. The charging system connectors will heat up if they are too corroded because of excess resistance.

          Have you run the ground wire from the r/r directly to the negative battery terminal?

          Those "creative" tests you did are really pretty creative. You took out one leg of the stator for each test run and found one leg that was really under-performing. I would suspect your stator. If you can, I would replace the stator and r/r as a set and thoroughly clean all the connections and grounds.

          The Rick's Electrics stator is my favorite. But if you are on a tight budget, I am currently using a Caltric part that is working well. You'll find Caltric on eBay. Also check eBay for a Shindengen r/r unit from the list on my website and wire the two directly according to Mr. duaneage's diagram.

          Compatible Stators and R/R Units:

          CLICK HERE for a list of compatible stators and FET regulator/rectifiers for the GS850 and other bikes.

          A wiring diagram for 6-wire Honda r/r units:


          Keep us informed.


          Thank you for your indulgence,

          BassCliff

          Comment


            #6
            Tom,

            Thanks for the advice. Unfortunately, I wanted to retest the "new" R/R this morning. Stuck it on, rev'd up the motor. Headlight went very bright and then dark. Blown! Quickly checked the output from the R/R, which was well over 40+ volts when rev'd. (Stopped quickly to avoid any more trouble.)

            Now, I have to replace my headlamp, or perhaps the whole assembly with one that takes H4 halogens. The bulbs for the GS450GA seems hard to find and expensive.

            The more I read, the better I understand. I guess one of the design problems with the Suzuki R/R is that only one of the phases is regulated (current feed back). Guess not a good approach.

            All and all, getting to be an expensive learning experience.

            Originally posted by tom203 View Post
            That pic and description of R/R does not give me a warm fuzzy feeling! Used honda R/R's and other Shindengen R/R's are all over ebay and typically sell for less than $15 plus shipping. Also,there is an outfit in CA that sells Chinese knockoffs for less than $10 new- some folks on here are using them, so they must work. I'd replace that R/R ASAP and save a few hairs.


            Added note. If you need something slightly smaller, the R/R's used on ninjas from late 1980's to 2007 are very common and were made by Shindengen .

            Comment


              #7
              BassCliff,

              Thanks for your advice and the information. I consult your site regularly. I used it to identify a Honda R/R substitute on ebay, but was not able to bid on it at the end because I had other obligations. Will try again looking for a substitute from your list.

              I am starting to suspect the stator, so I am going to just replace it. Yes, I do live Southern California, and yes money is tight. We are saving to get another bike because my son's 100cc vintage Vespa is just not cutting it going through the hills between the San Fernando Valley and West LA, which he has to do. So, you suggestion for the Caltric is very much appreciated.

              When I install the new stator, I will add the wire directly to the negative battery terminal.

              Originally posted by BassCliff View Post
              Hi,

              I have had a stator pass all the tests, active and passive, but still fail to charge. My guess is that sometimes the windings on the stator poles gets compromised over the years. The heating/cooling cycles damage the insulation between the wires and once it is under load and/or warms up the windings short out and affect the output negatively.

              Don't be shy about replacing all the connectors either. The charging system connectors will heat up if they are too corroded because of excess resistance.

              Have you run the ground wire from the r/r directly to the negative battery terminal?

              Those "creative" tests you did are really pretty creative. You took out one leg of the stator for each test run and found one leg that was really under-performing. I would suspect your stator. If you can, I would replace the stator and r/r as a set and thoroughly clean all the connections and grounds.

              The Rick's Electrics stator is my favorite. But if you are on a tight budget, I am currently using a Caltric part that is working well. You'll find Caltric on eBay. Also check eBay for a Shindengen r/r unit from the list on my website and wire the two directly according to Mr. duaneage's diagram.

              Compatible Stators and R/R Units:

              CLICK HERE for a list of compatible stators and FET regulator/rectifiers for the GS850 and other bikes.


              BassCliff

              Comment


                #8
                Follow this link to a CA ebay seller with lots of R/R's for sale at low cost.
                ebay item #220940435728 is a typical quality R/R.
                No need to pay more than $20 and Shindengens are very reliable even if 30 years old- I use similar on my bike.
                1981 gs650L

                "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

                Comment


                  #9
                  R/R substitutes?

                  Thank you very much for the lead. This seller is way cheaper than the others I have seen on ebay.

                  I have identified the R/Rs listed below as possible substitutes. I am trying to determine if they would work. Only one is listed on BikeCliff's web site (Honda VF750).

                  I will try to find time to do some research and cross listing, but if anyone knows which would work, I would greatly appreciate the information.

                  1982 Honda CM450
                  Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 1982 Honda CM450 CM 450 A Voltage Regulator Rectifier Electrical Motorcycle Part at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!


                  1980 Honda CM400 Rebel


                  1982 Honda GL500


                  1982 Honda VF750


                  KAWASAKI NINJA EX500





                  Originally posted by tom203 View Post
                  Follow this link to a CA ebay seller with lots of R/R's for sale at low cost.
                  ebay item #220940435728 is a typical quality R/R.
                  No need to pay more than $20 and Shindengens are very reliable even if 30 years old- I use similar on my bike.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Hi,

                    Any of those first three look like they would work.

                    If you wanted a new one, a kit like this would work well:


                    Something like this would be OK too:


                    If you do a search on eBay for 'shindengen regulator' you'll get tons of hits.

                    Thank you for your indulgence,

                    BassCliff

                    Comment

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