battery charging

[Guest]

My bike has been sitting for close to 2 months and the battery is discharged too much to turn my engine.
Would it be safe to pull it out of my bike and jumper it to a running vehicle to charge it?

[cowboyup3371]

NO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Do not put it on a running vehicle or you will kill your electrics. Have the vehicle turned off if you connect any jumper cables to your bike whatsoever.

Do you have a battery charger/maintainer? If not, the local parts house should be able to recharge it for you

[GateKeeper]

I think he meant, he was going to disconnect the battery from the bike, and then connect just the battery to a running vehicle to charge up the battery

[cowboyup3371]

Oh...sorry


I would still suggest hitting the local parts house; they can also test it for you to ensure it's still good.

[GateKeeper]

But still a good reminder......for the rest that might have thought about doing the jump my bike with a car running.....

[argonsagas]

My bike has been sitting for close to 2 months and the battery is discharged too much to turn my engine.
Would it be safe to pull it out of my bike and jumper it to a running vehicle to charge it?

NO.

If it has been sitting that long it may be useless now, but it will certainly be sulfated and if you hook it to a car or truck the charging system may sense a depleted battery or it may just pour everything into it, and adding a heavy charge to your badly-depleted battery could cause some V E R Y unwanted problems.


MUCH better to top up the liquid content (distilled water is best....NEVER acid) then try charging with a slow charge of ONE ampere per hour.

Check the base voltage BEFORE attaching the charger, then check it after about an hour from when the charging started.

The base voltage should rise in the first hour, and then more in the second.
You will probably need two hours to determine if yours is accepting a charge.

A voltmeter/multimeter will tell you if it is accepting the charge., and if it is, then leave it for a few more hours, or overnight.

To do the check you first disconnect the charger cables, check the voltage immediately, then wait about twenty minutes and try again.

Presuming the battery has accepted something, there will be some difference between the two readings, but if you see a significant drop back to the pre-charge voltage, it will probably mean it is time for a replacement.

That said, you can still give it a while longer and try again.

A battery that has been really low for a looooong time, will take longer to charge than one that went from full to fail in a few minutes, so you must use a very low amperage for the new charge to work properly. A fast charge will only wake up a small portion of the battery, while a slow charge using low amperage will push the charge deeper into the battery..


CORRECTION.......you must use a very low amperage, not voltage.

[gearhead13]

The battery was new last year. It has almost 12v with the bike off. Just not enough juice to turn over my new (tight) 1327 with 11-1 CR.

[mrbill5491]

Biggest problem with lead acid motorcycle batteries is the lack of fluid, just not alot there, once they start discharging they begin to sulfate as well and in a short time of a discharged rate, pretty much kills them. Buy a battery tender and keep it on the bike when not riding. Saves the battery big time. That or invest in the new battery technology available now. But never ever attach a running vehicle to a motorcycle battery, if the plates have shorted inside, the dang things can and well blow up when all that power is shot into them. Just remember safety first when messing with acid and such. Acid in the eyes is no fun.

[Big T]

The battery was new last year. It has almost 12v with the bike off. Just not enough juice to turn over my new (tight) 1327 with 11-1 CR.

Just give it the less than 1 amp charge and see what happens. If it's a bit low, it should come back up.

Get the correct battery charger and go for it

Do not hook it up to a stronger charging source

[chef1366]

What is the battery reading under load?
Ray (rapidray) told me about a trick the dragsters use for the higher compression motors. It's either the starter or the battery.

[posplayr]

What is the battery reading under load?
Ray (rapidray) told me about a trick the dragsters use for the higher compression motors. It's either the starter or the battery.

here:

How to avoid Starter Clutch Disaster Modification

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=123877&highlight=started+clutch

[chef1366]

here:

How to avoid Starter Clutch Disaster Modification

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...started+clutch

Gotcha
I think the racers use a stronger starter.

[gearhead13]

I wired in an ignition kill to stop kickbacks, battery is at the shop being charged now.
I am wondering about the power draw from my Innovate DB gauge, stupid thing isnt accurate anyway I dont think, I might just disconnect it. Maybe a switch to turn the headlight off when I am cranking it

[posplayr]

I wired in an ignition kill to stop kickbacks, battery is at the shop being charged now.
I am wondering about the power draw from my Innovate DB gauge, stupid thing isnt accurate anyway I dont think, I might just disconnect it. Maybe a switch to turn the headlight off when I am cranking it

what gauge are you running? You need to put in an inline switch. I run my off of AUX but have a switch near the fuse box I can reach down to switch off my LM-2/LMA-3, None of it is permenant install.

[gearhead13]

what gauge are you running? You need to put in an inline switch. I run my off of AUX but have a switch near the fuse box I can reach down to switch off my LM-2/LMA-3, None of it is permenant install.

I have the DB gauge with the LC-1 installed permanently. I wonder what the current draw is for these things?