Bought 750e two days ago, now it won't start

[Tinactin]

I didn't want to risk damaging the electrical system in any way so I decided to put the bike on the back of the truck and haul it back home. Better to be safe then sorry, right?

I found out what the problem was; a blown "power source" fuse. I changed out all the fuses (even the ones that weren't blown), checked all the electrical connections for any shorts, trickled the battery, and it started right up. I'm really glad that it was just a cheap fix instead of the stator/rectifier/battery or ignitor.

Fuses don't randomly blow...if it happens again, you have a fault and must track it down and fix it before operating the bike or replacing the fuse.

I blew a fuse after I installed a set of Dyna Coils--thought the primary winding shorted at first, but after inspecting it I noticed that the positive terminal screw was rubbing the frame, since I forgot to install the screw spacers. Just goes to show ya'.

[posplayr]

Fuses don't randomly blow...if it happens again, you have a fault and must track it down and fix it before operating the bike or replacing the fuse.

I blew a fuse after I installed a set of Dyna Coils--thought the primary winding shorted at first, but after inspecting it I noticed that the positive terminal screw was rubbing the frame, since I forgot to install the screw spacers. Just goes to show ya'.

Fuses can blow sporadically (my GS1100E blew one just before I crossed the Golden Gate bridge on a trip home) but it is certainly something to be wary of.

The GS750E in question is basically stock except for the R/R power and grounding modifications I did. Other than that it has a brake flasher. Everything else is stock and no other history of electrical problems after the original R/R problems I fixed in Dec 2007.

[dagreatgatsby]

Well, I got stranded again. The bike refused to start. The same symptoms as before. But the fuses were fine this time. So, after getting the bike home, I performed the stator/rectifier test with my multi-meter. The rectifier is only putting out 13.5 - 13.9 volts dc. The stator is not giving any reading on the meter at all. So, I'm going to swallow the bitter pill, and spend the dough to get this bike fixed. Does anybody know where I can get a new stator cover gasket?

Edit: I didn't do the stator test correctly. Gonna redo the test tomorrow, but i'm pretty sure that the stator is ****ed, too. Been thinking about improving the cooling capability of the rectifier and I remembered reading about attaching a small electronic fan made for computers to the rectifier to help it cool.

[cowboyup3371]

Have you looked at Basscliff's response in this thread and his website yet? It has links to several places we order parts from. Additionally, you can talk with your local Suzuki parts department

[posplayr]

Well, I got stranded again. The bike refused to start. The same symptoms as before. But the fuses were fine this time. So, after getting the bike home, I performed the stator/rectifier test with my multi-meter. The rectifier is only putting out 13.5 - 13.9 volts dc. The stator is not giving any reading on the meter at all. So, I'm going to swallow the bitter pill, and spend the dough to get this bike fixed. Does anybody know where I can get a new stator cover gasket?

Edit: I didn't do the stator test correctly. Gonna redo the test tomorrow, but i'm pretty sure that the stator is ****ed, too. Been thinking about improving the cooling capability of the rectifier and I remembered reading about attaching a small electronic fan made for computers to the rectifier to help it cool.

It is highly unlikely that there is anything wrong with your stator or R/R. The stator has less than a 5 thousand miles on it and it was not fried when the cases were split.

Charging at 13.5-13.9v is normal if the battery is not fully charged. Your bike was charging to 14.25v (a couple of weeks ago) when the battery was charged.

Also the R/R has a copper heat sink on it to help draw away any heat from the R/R and get it into the frame. That will be much more effective than any computer fan.This was one of the first modifications I ever did to the bike.

[posplayr]

Post the results of a quick test. You only need to remove the seat and left side cover to measure voltage at the solenoid and ground.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?p=1272192#post1272192

Charging System QUICK TEST
Sometime people get a little confused in the details of doing the stator pages and sometimes they forget to check their battery. So just to help things along if someone is a bit confused and needs a sanity check.

These tests are NOT mandatory as long as you know you have a good battery and can follow your way through the stator pages. Otherwise it is just a nice real quick test.

NOTE THIS IS NOT TO REPLACE THE STATOR PAGES. IT IS JUST A QUICK FIRST SANITY TEST TO see the battery is good enough to proceed with the STATOR PAGES. The first part of the stator pages will actually measure how good your connections are and goes well beyond this QUICK check.

Quick Test Steps:

1.) key off................Normal 12.7 volts-12.9 volts

2.) key on (but not cranking with lights for 10 sec).....Normal 12.2-12.5 volts

3.) at idle (1500 rpm).....12.6volts - 13.2volts

4.) at 2500 rpm 13.5 -14.0 volts

5.) at 5000 rpm.....14.0 -15.0 volts

6.) key off.....slightly higher than measurements # 1 (12.8-13.0 v)

Edit: I spoke to Alex, there was a blown fuse but it was on the aux power supply and not the main fuse so he doesnt think that is it.

He says when it runs it runs great, it is just doesnt fire up about 1/2 the time.

He is going to recheck with the quick test but if the bike cranks but does not fire that can not be a charging issue.

I still think based on the symptoms that the ignitor is intermittent and on the verge of failing for good.

[dagreatgatsby]

Quick test results aka rectifier test: 13.9 volts. From 12.7 at idle to 13.9 at 5,000 rpm. a little low but passable.

Signal generator test results: Approximately 315 ohms. Forgot the exact number but within spec, although a little low.

Stator/alternator test: 80-95 volts. passed with flying colors

Ignitor test: Did not see any sparks from the spark plugs. However, the engine has been painted so it may not be providing adequate grounding plus i didn't do the test in a dark room. So, I removed the ignitor unit and dissassembled it. I measured the resistance of the 2 resistors inside the ignitor unit and got a reading of 629 ohms and 619 ohms respectively. This seems okay.

So, my conclusion is that it is either a bad battery or the engine is not grounded properly. I think it may be the battery because it had a difficult time starting this morning after sitting all day yesterday, plus the battery has drained from 12.76 to 12.69 volts steadily today. I think it may be the engine grounding because the engine has been painted and the grounding wire is not getting good metal to metal contact.

The bike starts at my house in the garage. It doesn't start only at school in the out-door parking lot where it's cold.

Does anybody know what's going on here?

[posplayr]

Quick test results aka rectifier test: 13.9 volts. From 12.7 at idle to 13.9 at 5,000 rpm. a little low but passable.

Signal generator test results: Approximately 315 ohms. Forgot the exact number but within spec, although a little low.

Stator/alternator test: 80-95 volts. passed with flying colors

Ignitor test: Did not see any sparks from the spark plugs. However, the engine has been painted so it may not be providing adequate grounding plus i didn't do the test in a dark room. So, I removed the ignitor unit and dissassembled it. I measured the resistance of the 2 resistors inside the ignitor unit and got a reading of 629 ohms and 619 ohms respectively. This seems okay.

So, my conclusion is that it is either a bad battery or the engine is not grounded properly. I think it may be the battery because it had a difficult time starting this morning after sitting all day yesterday, plus the battery has drained from 12.76 to 12.69 volts steadily today. I think it may be the engine grounding because the engine has been painted and the grounding wire is not getting good metal to metal contact.

The bike starts at my house in the garage. It doesn't start only at school in the out-door parking lot where it's cold.

Does anybody know what's going on here?

The voltage is a little low but that is probably because your battery is down (12.69V). The battery is drained because you have been cranking the bike alot and have not been running the bike. The charging systems don't charge that well to start with; it takes a while to get fully charged.

The engine is grounded, if it was not your engine would not turn over from cranking the starter. Yes it is painted but that is not preventing it from being grounded to the frame and battery.

No idea what kind of igniter test you are doing, I attached what the manual says. You apply a small voltage to the pickup inputs to the igniter as described.

I still think the igniter is intermittent, if you had the igniter off can you re flow the solder on the back of the PCB? That has a good chance of making it stable.

If not take your chances with an E-bay unit of buy a Dyna-S.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dyna-S-Elect...-/380382026185

[tom203]

Random starting makes me suspect a bad ignitor or maybe random power to ignitor. On my bike, I can bypass ignition and kill switch with a jumper wire from Aux fuse position to plug that feeds the ignitor. The orange/white wire in this plug is the plus 12 volts that came from coils (from kill switch, etc.) . If you look at wiring diagram and are comfortable bypassing stuff, next time it doesn't start, try a jumper wire to "feed" the orange /white wire at ignitor plug and see if it helps, but remember to turn off kill switch (no need to have power travel any further back). Please make sure that your wiring is similar to mine (81 650) by studying diagram!

[dagreatgatsby]

After all the tests, talking to a motorcycle mechanic, and reading everybody's posts, I've come to the conclusion that the battery is bad. I've read that the no-load voltage on a battery should not be lower than 12.86 volts. Considering that mine was at 12.68 today, I went ahead and ordered a new one. I decided to spend the money and buy a lithium battery from Shorai. It's got better cranking power than a standard battery and it's only 2 pounds. I'll let you guys know if this fixes the problem.

[posplayr]

After all the tests, talking to a motorcycle mechanic, and reading everybody's posts, I've come to the conclusion that the battery is bad. I've read that the no-load voltage on a battery should not be lower than 12.86 volts. Considering that mine was at 12.68 today, I went ahead and ordered a new one. I decided to spend the money and buy a lithium battery from Shorai. It's got better cranking power than a standard battery and it's only 2 pounds. I'll let you guys know if this fixes the problem.

good luck with that, although I will suggest that you are not doing very well (with your considered analysis) If you think you have a bad battery when it is a 12.68V under no load.

[posplayr]

see battery receipt attached; go ask the store for a refund if the battery is dead. I bought the battery Dec 15, 2011.

[tom203]

dagreatgatsby said ...." I've read that the no-load voltage on a battery should not be lower than 12.86 volts. Considering that mine was at 12.68 today, "

I don't know where you read this, but it's wrong. 12.6 volt is considered excellent for a battery in standby mode. Measure a few vehicle batteries after few hours of not being charged and see what you get. There's something else going on- if the battery couldn't crank, you could assume it was defective, but your bike is cranking, but randomly not starting. More cranking power is not a cure-all.

[dagreatgatsby]

After sanding the paint off the ground point of the engine, the bike seemed to be working excellent. So, I took my chances again and decided to ride to school. On the way there, the bike just died when trying to get going from a standstill at a red light. After about 5 minutes, the bike started up again. But, about another quarter mile later, the revs wouldn't come up in 3rd gear. I shifted down to 2nd, but the revs still wouldn't come up. Then, the engine shut itself off.

I got stranded again. Called my brother to bring the truck to haul the bike back home. When he arrived, I decided to try to start the bike again, which it did. So, I rode the bike half way home before the engine died out again when trying to go from a standstill. The bike would not start again, so we hauled in it back home on the back of the pickup. Once at home, the bike started up again. I think it's the rectifier/stator/battery. I'm sick of this **** and replacing all three.

Jim, you said this bike was in perfectly running condition. Well, it's not. Can you help me pay for this repair?

tom203, here is the where i read that battery needs to be above 12.8 volts. It's from shorai battery's website:

[hjfisk]

If that bike has the stock igniter, open it up and look at the circuit board, they are known for bad solder joints , just look carefully at all the solder joints for one that looks to have corrosion,and resolder it. have run into this a few times with these. Plus where Suzuki decided the mount them they do get wet in the rain.
From what you posted there is nothing wrong with your charging system.