Bought 750e two days ago, now it won't start

[posplayr]

If that bike has the stock igniter, open it up and look at the circuit board, they are known for bad solder joints , just look carefully at all the solder joints for one that looks to have corrosion,and resolder it. have run into this a few times with these. Plus where Suzuki decided the mount them they do get wet in the rain.
From what you posted there is nothing wrong with your charging system.

I already suggested that he reflow the solder on the back of the PCB, not sure he is paying any attention

I still think the igniter is intermittent, if you had the igniter off can you re flow the solder on the back of the PCB? That has a good chance of making it stable.

If not take your chances with an E-bay unit of buy a Dyna-S.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dyna-S-Elect...-/380382026185

[BassCliff]

Hi,

Excuse me for not reading the entire thread just now. I'm just thinking out loud...

Thermally intermittent igniter or coils. Even a fuse can be intermittent.
Loose connection somewhere. (I say this because recently my bike was acting strange until I checked the battery cables. Doh!)
Gas cap or fuel tank filler neck not venting properly.
Inline fuel filter causing fuel starvation.
Cracked/pinched vacuum line.
Pinched or badly routed fuel line.
Faulty petcock.

Keep after it. The problem will be the last thing you check.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[chuck hahn]

What i cant understand is this...IF the battery is dead enough to shut off the bike..but it sits for a while and it cranks right up. So just how does the battery get magically refeshed enought to retsart it...that entire scenario just doesnt make sense. Once its dead it should STAY DEAD until it put on a charger. I am hedging a bet on fuel starvation symptoms from a faulty petcock or a cracked vacuum line not holding the diaphram open enough. Am i misunderstanding this?

[posplayr]

What i cant understand is this...IF the battery is dead enough to shut off the bike..but it sits for a while and it cranks right up. So just how does the battery get magically refeshed enought to retsart it...that entire scenario just doesnt make sense. Once its dead it should STAY DEAD until it put on a charger. I am hedging a bet on fuel starvation symptoms from a faulty petcock or a cracked vacuum line not holding the diaphram open enough. Am i misunderstanding this?

it is a brand new petcock and fuel is already in the float bowls. It is an electrical problem. The apparent symptom is that it will crank but not fire. When is does fire it is instant on.

The bike is wired to crank with the Kill switch OFF (to stop starter clutch kick backs) . Not sure if there is anyway that looks ON but is really off. I never use the Kill switch ; it is always on for this bike.

[tom203]

Those shorai batteries aren't lead acid, so those numbers don't apply. A lead acid battery is fully charged at 12.6 to 12.8 volts depending on plate material. Likes to be trickled at 13.5 volts and is happy to see 14 to 15 out of running stator/alternator. I don't use my kill switch, so I don't know how likely they are to cause problems, but intermitent starting sure would make me suspect it.

[dagreatgatsby]

Yeah, I agree with everyone here that it is probably the ignitor. I've ordered the dyna s and matching dynatek coils. I'll keep you guys posted on what happens.

[850 Combat]

Fuses don't randomly blow...if it happens again, you have a fault and must track it down and fix it before operating the bike or replacing the fuse.

In my experience, they do. If one does, its a good bet to change them all. My theory is that age, use, and vibration eventually gets to them. Experience has shown that if one goes for no discernible reason, more fuses are likely to go.

[posplayr]

In my experience, they do. If one does, its a good bet to change them all. My theory is that age, use, and vibration eventually gets to them. Experience has shown that if one goes for no discernible reason, more fuses are likely to go.

Most people don't understand that repetative mechanical and thermal stresses on circuit boards, and solder joints are the primary factors causing failures in electronics. Voltage stresses are another but accounts for a smaller portion of failures.
So as you say, when one fuze fails the others are likely to have experienced the same cumulative stress environment and so are as likely to fail as well. Of course you don't have to proactively replace all; if the consequences of failure are low you just run the fuzes to failure and then rePlace

[dagreatgatsby]

I first changed out the stator, rectifier, and battery. The problem was still there. I then changed out the ignitor, coils, and the signal generator, but the problem was still there. I then changed out the starter solenoid, but that didn't work either. I finally changed out the starter, and bingo! It was the damn starter all along. The bike now starts up straight away and doesn't die out. The bogging when going from a standstill and at 5000 rpm is also gone now.

[posplayr]

I first changed out the stator, rectifier, and battery. The problem was still there. I then changed out the ignitor, coils, and the signal generator, but the problem was still there. I then changed out the starter solenoid, but that didn't work either. I finally changed out the starter, and bingo! It was the damn starter all along. The bike now starts up straight away and doesn't die out. The bogging when going from a standstill and at 5000 rpm is also gone now.

amazing.............

stator $120
R/R $80
battery $60
Ignitor $120
Coils $120
-------------
total $500 not counting any labor (????)

I don't know how a bad starter would cause the bike to "die out", but I am really glad it helped that "mid range bogging". How do the plugs look now?

[850 Combat]

I've taken off on a 500 mile round trip drive with a bad alternator in my autocross car so I could run it. Threw a couple tractor traier batteries in the trunk, but didn't even need them.

Lots of people associate charging system problems with running problems, but they are unrelated. Your ignition does not care where the electricity it needs comes from. If you run out of electricity, you run out of spark, but a charged battery is as good as a functioning charging system to the ignition, until it loses its charge.

They will run a long time on a full battery without a headlight. Discovered that my CBX wasn't charging in Cantwell (don't know when it failed). Pulled the headlight fuse and rode it to Fairbanks. That is 150 miles with no charging system, assuming I discovered the problem when it occurred, which is unlikely.
On the family tours I use my GS fleet for, it has been the plan, in the event of a charging system failure, to pull the headlight fuse, then ride until it shows signs of poor ignition, then, then switch out the battery with another bike.

[snicrep5]

not to be a hijacker, but... I like that heat sink idea, but would it be better to use a thick piece of aluminum instead of copper? I was thinking that the alum. would absorb heat quicker, and dissipate it to the atmosphere faster too. Ill go whatever way seems most logical.

Also the R/R has a copper heat sink on it to help draw away any heat from the R/R and get it into the frame. That will be much more effective than any computer fan.This was one of the first modifications I ever did to the bike.[/QUOTE]

[johnbb71]

I first changed out the stator, rectifier, and battery. The problem was still there. I then changed out the ignitor, coils, and the signal generator, but the problem was still there. I then changed out the starter solenoid, but that didn't work either. I finally changed out the starter, and bingo! It was the damn starter all along. The bike now starts up straight away and doesn't die out. The bogging when going from a standstill and at 5000 rpm is also gone now.

i remember old chryslers and some g.m's snd fords , when the starter worked but ws soewhat faulty the vehicle either ran poor or not at all and intermitantly, just my 2 cents and rememebering vehicles i troubleshot and repaired years aggo,(wow feeling old now). hm

[hjfisk]

i remember old chryslers and some g.m's snd fords , when the starter worked but ws soewhat faulty the vehicle either ran poor or not at all and intermitantly, just my 2 cents and rememebering vehicles i troubleshot and repaired years aggo,(wow feeling old now). hm

That is because back in the day of points ignition on GM and Chrysler vehicles the factory ran a direct wire from the starter solenoid to the coils bringing a direct 12 volt Booster which is only powered when you are turning the engine over on the starter. Kind of like our coil relay mod but only active when the starter was engaged. Now that is going back aways considering electronic ignition became the norm in or around 1973

[posplayr]

not to be a hijacker, but... I like that heat sink idea, but would it be better to use a thick piece of aluminum instead of copper? I was thinking that the alum. would absorb heat quicker, and dissipate it to the atmosphere faster too. Ill go whatever way seems most logical.

You want to get the heat to transfer from the R/R to the frame. The aluminum and copper are probably about the same, the main issue is to get the heat into the frame from what ever you mount the r/r to. By wrapping the copper around teh frame it gives good heat transfer.

Once the heat is in to the frame it distributes itself and the frame is exposed to the air which takes away the heat.