Soldering Stator Wires

[koolaid_kid]

They wind them together to maximize power transfer, solder them to insure the connection stays in place, and then cover them with a very strong heat resistant covering to make sure nothing comes loose. The covering is also a sealant and prevents the wires from coming unraveled and also prevents any solder from going into the engine lubricant. It is not for the weak minded and not easily reproduced. But it can and has been reproduced on the kitchen table.
AFA the mechanics, you have a 18-19 gauge solid strand copper wire coming off each stator pole (3 total). For the factory 18 gauge stranded wires, you have to figure out how to wind the two together to maximize power transfer and minimize power loss (almost all in heat). It takes me about one half an inch or more of winding to accomplish this efficiently.

[GSexpress]

I really can't agree with you. Solder melts at 360 and above and the wires from the stator don't carry near enough current through the small amount of resistance at the solder joint to cause a problem.

In order for heat from current flow to be generated there must be a resistance capable of opposing the current and converting the electrical energy into heat. A molex connector with dirty pins presents an opportunity to do so and gives you the melted connectors we all have seen. The dirt and resulting resistance facilitate the heat process.

A soldered joint, particularly one done well, offers so little additional resistance through the cross section that the AC current flowing through it will not generate enough heat to melt it. And if your oil on the stator side is at 360 degrees or higher you have bigger problems.

The mechanical crimp I recommended is the way to go and soldering it won't be a problem, especially if it is double heat shrink protected from the oil.

I base my information on years of dealership level experience and knowledge obtained later as an electronic tech. Heat buildup in tightly wound wires, as in the Three Phaze Alternator,can be considerable and is additive to the temperature of the oil it is bathed in. I have seen first hand such repairs fail and found lead balls floating in the oil and stuck in the filter. These things don't discolor and burn up the insulating coating from engine temperatures.

A crimp conector without solder is best, but only if the windings aren't old and discolored making the wires brittile. You don't want to take the risk of it breaking off and getting into the engine. How do you think it broke in the first place?

[duaneage]

I've seen lead balls in oil too, from the babbitt in crank bearings that failed. Now there is some serious heat that can blue rod ends.
We can agree to disagree, there are examples of both approaches in production stators.

[bakalorz]

I really can't agree with you. Solder melts at 360 and above and the wires from the stator don't carry near enough current through the small amount of resistance at the solder joint to cause a problem.

In order for heat from current flow to be generated there must be a resistance capable of opposing the current and converting the electrical energy into heat. A molex connector with dirty pins presents an opportunity to do so and gives you the melted connectors we all have seen. The dirt and resulting resistance facilitate the heat process.

A soldered joint, particularly one done well, offers so little additional resistance through the cross section that the AC current flowing through it will not generate enough heat to melt it. And if your oil on the stator side is at 360 degrees or higher you have bigger problems.

The mechanical crimp I recommended is the way to go and soldering it won't be a problem, especially if it is double heat shrink protected from the oil.

I'm late to the thread, but just thought I'd add one thing.

First, I don't really know whether this is a good application for soldering or not, so I won't weigh in on that.

But IF you are going to solder, I would suspect you would want to use silver solder ...
Silver solder has a significantly higher melting point (over 450 deg)
(its also slightly mechanically stronger)

Its pretty common, in the US you can buy it at Radio shack.

[salty_monk]

I picked up a Kawasaki stator that fits the bigger bikes (ask Chef1366) for $15 shipped. Keep it as a spare. Not sure if it fits the 550.

Well done Brian for shipping one over, I had come to offer my Kawasaki one!

[CrazyFazy]

hey tom shoot me a p.m. about that stator of yours....

[JEEPRUSTY]

The solder vs. crimp debate extends to batter cables and grounding straps for high amp applications.

Some folks refuse to use a soldered joint in battery cables and religiously prefer a crimp.

I was in a bind to get a ground stap on my car once and used a crimp welding lug and hammered the snot out of it to secure the wires. Worked like a charm.

Apparently the reason for avoiding solder is not the temps in normal usage but for when things fail.

The battery cables on my bike look to be brazed with something other than solder.

Not sure why someone would think the solder does not act as the means of joining the parts. No one twists copper pipes or doe anything mechanical to them other than solder em. The solder is all that keeps them fastened.

Alas.

Buy a new Stator. A critical component of you bike that could lead to electrical system damage is no place to learn soldering\brazing.

[cowboyup3371]

Already bought a new one from BWringer and need to get the check in the mail to him on Monday. I will say I'm not sure why this thread was pulled back up.