Stator Measurements - 450/550/650/850/1000 Owners who have one out of the bike?

[Steve]

I found this on some guy's website: ...

BassCliff, next time you see "some guy" in the mirror, give him a pat on the back for ALL of us.

.

[pete]

Thanks all... I was really just after comparison measurements to ensure the Electrex would fit...

BassCliff, those lists are very handy and as Steve said, definitely another pat on the back is very much deserved

Dale, thanks for the offer of the stator.

Brian, good call on the 500's still using the same stator.

My goal is to get this charging system fixed ASAP and I won't have budget 'til pay day this Wednesday. If I get the Electrex I can have it ready to install next Saturday... had a quick peak on eBay for other stators and the only thing suitable is a GS500 stator including cover for $200

I think the Electrex is going to be the winner... yes I know I'm going against the whole GSR fix it cheap ethos, but I like running my headlight (H4 upgraded) in traffic and am not game to until I get this sorted... and I'm riding her every day in traffic...

[duncan1178]

hi guys, newby here, just bought a gs650g 81 model... took it to a shop early this week to get it checked, dont have any knowledge on doing electricals on a motorcycle, but i am a fast and good learner. now here is my problem... they said that i need a new stator which would cost me $189 including the gasket, labor is half an hour, saying that they couldnt check the regulator if it has damaged as well.... i would like to do it myself, anyone has a suggestion? how to check if stator is toast? and where can i find a decent stator for a good price? thanks....

[BassCliff]

Hi,

hi guys, newby here, just bought a gs650g 81 model... took it to a shop early this week to get it checked, dont have any knowledge on doing electricals on a motorcycle, but i am a fast and good learner. now here is my problem... they said that i need a new stator which would cost me $189 including the gasket, labor is half an hour, saying that they couldnt check the regulator if it has damaged as well.... i would like to do it myself, anyone has a suggestion? how to check if stator is toast? and where can i find a decent stator for a good price? thanks....

You resurrected a 4 month old thread. You are welcome to start a new one, and introduce yourself in the "Owners" section.

Click the link to my website below and you'll have more information than you can process.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[joejeweler]

Protip: GS500 stators are still in production and pop up cheap on fleaBay all the time.

These bikes are cheap and don't get the love they deserve, so when one little thing goes wrong, people tend to part 'em out instead of dealing with it.

If you're in the market for a spare stator and your bike is on that list, keep an eye out.

My GS850 is currently wearing a stator from a 2001 GS500, and i have a spare stator from a 2005 GS500 on the shelf. My original 1983 GS850 stator went 102,000 miles, so I should be good for a while...

That's quite some miles racked up on the '83 GS850, and a bit better than i expected out of the OEM R/R!

I just got done a few hours ago replacing the original OEM R/R with a R/R out of a 2007 Yamaha,....a Shindengen MOSFET FH012AA,.....just in case!

BTW, the it was NOT as easy to replace as outlined in BassCliff's link. Seems the bottom of my OEM R/R was mounted via phillip head screws that no-way were coming out without complete removal of the battery box!

......now replaced with 10mm head bolts so should be much easier to replace if ever needed.

[duncan1178]

thanks

thanks bass cliff, i'd be visiting your website often for sure...

[duaneage]

Check out the link on my signature line.

If a shop says they don't know how, or that there is no way, to check a RR out then they aren't very good at electricals on motorcycles. The diodes can be checked forwards and back (there is probably a short) and the regulator can be checked for shorts as well.
I would replace the RR with a Honda unit no matter what. The OEM RRs are the number one problem on GS bikes, causing problems in an otherwise perfect motorcycle.

[Normk]

If the OP is in the Upper Fraser Valley, PM and we can arrange to test your VRR. FWIW, the stator needs not be out of the bike in order to obtain measurements as they are the same, in or out. Only mention this because limiting to out of the bike may reduce the sample size.

You may wish to use a 12 volt battery and test light rather than an ohmmeter for testing the diodes and checking stator grounds as that is usually a more reliable indication of diode operation and stator connections. We use a 120 volt AC source limited by a 50 Watt bulb for testing stator and field grounds as this is the industry standard method, just FWIW.

Typically, one tests stator for:

1) grounds- there must be no circuit/connection between a stator lead and the stator core under a voltage of 120 Volts.

2) open circuits- each stator lead must form a circuit with the others which is able to support a load at least equal to that of the stator output current.

3) short circuits- each stator winding must only contact other windings at their termination. Resistance tests, growler, or other testing can all confirm this condition, however a shorted winding will usually burn up right away so these tests are generally not required.

As for the shop checking a used VRR...if still service manager I would not wish to do so. Here's the problem: labor charge to set up and test would be significant against the cost of a new unit and there would be the issue of guaranteeing the results. Unless one could leave the unit under load for some time to ensure that temperature reaches the maximum experienced range, it could be quite likely to have a thermal related failure which escaped testing. We retired "hobby types" can afford the time and fooling but a business....

One needs to rig up the VRR with a load and variable voltage power source such that the source voltage can be driven above the regulator set point to allow the regulator's intervention to be tested. This is OK but the shop would only do this infrequently which makes for both inefficiency and errors. Most automotive alternator repair shops find it to be simpler to test the voltage regulator in operation than to set up and test separately, or at least the ones I used to visit in the course of my work reflected that approach.

Not arguing with duaneage's point of view but that would be my approach if still operating a service business.

Check out the link on my signature line.

If a shop says they don't know how, or that there is no way, to check a RR out then they aren't very good at electricals on motorcycles. The diodes can be checked forwards and back (there is probably a short) and the regulator can be checked for shorts as well.
I would replace the RR with a Honda unit no matter what. The OEM RRs are the number one problem on GS bikes, causing problems in an otherwise perfect motorcycle.