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    Charging system/ starting woes

    On my last ride, I stopped at a gas station for a break, and the bike wouldnt start. They had a shop there and they hooked up a booster to it and got it running again, then I asked him to check battery running voltage, no charging
    Last I checked it was doing 14.5v with rpm. Maybe the jumping fried my charging system?
    Earlier, I brought the battery to Canadian Tire and they checked the battery health with their snap-on checker and it said the battery was ok, and they charged it for me, I picked it up later.
    So, when I got the bike back home after my ride, I went through checks of my charging system. Stator ohm readings were good. I couldnt remember exactly how to check the ac voltage, so I had one lead on ground and one on one of the yellow stator wires, and saw 20-30V at 3k rpm. (I live in an apartment and it would wake the dead at 5k rpm in the underground parking)
    Question: If the ohm readings of the stator are ok, why would the ac readings be bad??
    Question: if the stator is bad, could it fry my R&R?
    I took out the R&R and tested it and it seemed to be dead.
    The R&R red wire directly to the battery, and ground directly to the battery, sense wire going to full battery voltage. (Dueanage R&R)
    Ordered a new R&R from Ebay off of a GL1100, tested the same as the old one
    My tester has a spot supposed to be diode test, I think its just ohm reading. Can I test an R&R properly with an ohm meter?
    Question: My new R&R has two red and two green(ground) wires on it, do I connect them together and then to battery? Or tape one wire off and use one wire?

    #2
    You need to review the charging tests as you made a few testing errors. The AC voltage test is between the stator wires and not to ground. If this is a Shindengen R/R, I'd be real surprised if it was at fault, so put that newer R/R aside for now and review the correct testing procedure. Mr Posplayer has made the tests as simple as possible so take advantage of his efforts. Clean connections are vital.
    The diode test is a crude one, as it just tests the rectifing diodes and not the regulating function of the R/R.
    1981 gs650L

    "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by tom203 View Post
      You need to review the charging tests as you made a few testing errors. The AC voltage test is between the stator wires and not to ground. If this is a Shindengen R/R, I'd be real surprised if it was at fault, so put that newer R/R aside for now and review the correct testing procedure. Mr Posplayer has made the tests as simple as possible so take advantage of his efforts. Clean connections are vital.
      The diode test is a crude one, as it just tests the rectifing diodes and not the regulating function of the R/R.
      The new R&R is a Shindengen, the old one is from Dueanage, says ch125-6 on it. I am NOT going to rev my bike to 5k rpm in the underground parking. I dont feel like being evicted for a stator test. So what should the ac voltage be at 3k rpm?
      Did you read everything? I KNOW I did the AC test wrong, I havent had time to redo it.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by gearhead13 View Post
        The new R&R is a Shindengen, the old one is from Dueanage, says ch125-6 on it. I am NOT going to rev my bike to 5k rpm in the underground parking. I dont feel like being evicted for a stator test. So what should the ac voltage be at 3k rpm?
        Did you read everything? I KNOW I did the AC test wrong, I havent had time to redo it.
        YES, I did read everything. I guess the ch125-6 is a chinese knockoff of a Shindengen. If you can't review the testing procedure, it makes it difficult to assign blame. I'll take a wild guess and say that at 3k rpm, the AC voltage between any two stator wires (R/R disconnected) would be 45 volts if the stator was in a happy state, unlike me.
        1981 gs650L

        "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by tom203 View Post
          YES, I did read everything. I guess the ch125-6 is a chinese knockoff of a Shindengen. If you can't review the testing procedure, it makes it difficult to assign blame. I'll take a wild guess and say that at 3k rpm, the AC voltage between any two stator wires (R/R disconnected) would be 45 volts if the stator was in a happy state, unlike me.
          Probably higher than 45. Don't have a bike with me to test it, sorry.
          http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

          Life is too short to ride an L.

          Comment


            #6
            I've generally found ~20 +/-5 VAC at idle depending on the bike and idle RPMs(this is across 4 makes and 5 models of bikes). Haven't payed close attention to just what the values are as it climbs, but it climbs fairly steadily with RPMs, so 45-50 VAC at 3000RPM sounds about right. And yes, should be the same between any 2 of the yellow stator wires, not the ground.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by verde View Post
              I've generally found ~20 +/-5 VAC at idle depending on the bike and idle RPMs(this is across 4 makes and 5 models of bikes). Haven't payed close attention to just what the values are as it climbs, but it climbs fairly steadily with RPMs, so 45-50 VAC at 3000RPM sounds about right. And yes, should be the same between any 2 of the yellow stator wires, not the ground.
              I will try the test again tomorrow and hope for enough ac and even across all the wires. I dont want to take a chance of ruining my new R&R with a flaky stator.

              Comment


                #8
                There should be 60+ volts AC between each stator leg at 5000 rpm. Less than this indicates a weak stator.
                Ed

                To measure is to know.

                Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

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                KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                Comment


                  #9
                  I read on Basscliffs site that you only need to go to 4k rpm for 60VAC. The sound that my 1327 makes at anything over idle in the undergound parking is deafening

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by gearhead13 View Post
                    I will try the test again tomorrow and hope for enough ac and even across all the wires. I dont want to take a chance of ruining my new R&R with a flaky stator.
                    Yeah, but your first post described "jumping with booster" -this is to be avoided in the future as it can overwhelm a bikes electricals.
                    1981 gs650L

                    "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Not if the other vehicle isn't running.
                      http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

                      Life is too short to ride an L.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by tkent02 View Post
                        Not if the other vehicle isn't running.
                        He said it was a garage station booster- sorta like a short circuit device on wheels!
                        1981 gs650L

                        "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Isn't a booster just a big rack of batteries?
                          http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

                          Life is too short to ride an L.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by tkent02 View Post
                            Isn't a booster just a big rack of batteries?
                            Could be , but lots of places use a monster battery charger with a 400 amp boost function-makes for quick starts, and usually results in more battery sales!
                            1981 gs650L

                            "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Hi,

                              I found these on some guy's website.

                              Stator Test

                              Regulator/Rectifier Diode Test


                              Thank you for your indulgence,

                              BassCliff

                              Comment

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