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I think you mis-understood part of what I said.
When I said that it was "56 watts for the pair", I meant that it was 56 watts for the pair of lights that would turn on when you activated your turn signals. One 28 watt light at the front, one 28 watt light at the rear. Unless you have an aftermarket 4-way flasher unit, you will not be activating all four at the same time, so it's only the 56 watts you need to worry about.
Most (but not all) of the electronic flashers are timers, so they don't really care what, if anything, is downstream. The 2-pin flashers, like the stock one, are thermal units, so they HAVE to have a certain load to operate properly. If you have one of the timer-based flashers, it will be easier (and cheaper) to use that, rather than try to incorporate some load resistors.
By the way, does your bike have a single indicator in the instrument cluster for turn signals or does it have one for each side?
If you have one for each side, you will have no problems with your LED units. However, if you have a single light, you will have to do some re-wiring. The stock single-bulb dash indicator uses the filaments on the lights on the other side as a ground wire. That is, when you turn on the LEFT signals, one lead of the dash indicator is connected to the left signals. The other lead is connected to the right signals. Since they are not on, current goes through the indicator bulb, then through the right signal filaments and on to ground. Since the dash light won't pass much current, the signals on the right do not light. When you turn on the RIGHT signals, the left filaments provide the ground. When you switch to LEDs, you might or might not have enough to energize the dash indicator, and it just might pass enough to light up the LEDs on the other side.
If you do have a single bulb, I can provide a diagram to show how to isolate the dash bulb.
.
When I said that it was "56 watts for the pair", I meant that it was 56 watts for the pair of lights that would turn on when you activated your turn signals. One 28 watt light at the front, one 28 watt light at the rear. Unless you have an aftermarket 4-way flasher unit, you will not be activating all four at the same time, so it's only the 56 watts you need to worry about.
Most (but not all) of the electronic flashers are timers, so they don't really care what, if anything, is downstream. The 2-pin flashers, like the stock one, are thermal units, so they HAVE to have a certain load to operate properly. If you have one of the timer-based flashers, it will be easier (and cheaper) to use that, rather than try to incorporate some load resistors.
By the way, does your bike have a single indicator in the instrument cluster for turn signals or does it have one for each side?
If you have one for each side, you will have no problems with your LED units. However, if you have a single light, you will have to do some re-wiring. The stock single-bulb dash indicator uses the filaments on the lights on the other side as a ground wire. That is, when you turn on the LEFT signals, one lead of the dash indicator is connected to the left signals. The other lead is connected to the right signals. Since they are not on, current goes through the indicator bulb, then through the right signal filaments and on to ground. Since the dash light won't pass much current, the signals on the right do not light. When you turn on the RIGHT signals, the left filaments provide the ground. When you switch to LEDs, you might or might not have enough to energize the dash indicator, and it just might pass enough to light up the LEDs on the other side.
If you do have a single bulb, I can provide a diagram to show how to isolate the dash bulb.
.
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