1982 GS 550L not firing...can anyone help me?

[mike_of_bbg]

Post in parts wanted or check eBay. Just remember that you'd be buying a USED igniter, so it may fire until it gets warm or other problems they have. New igniters are still available I think for around $400 so not really reasonable.

The Dyna S DS3-2 is a popular replacement option. It's available for $120-150, and replaces both the signal generator and igniter (it's a common misunderstanding that it does not replace the igniter because it just looks like the sig gen, but it's a sig gen with the igniter "baked in" - they wire right to the coils). They're quite reliable.

http://www.z1enterprises.com/DynaS-Electronic-Ignition-DS32--Suzuki-GS-fours-with-ND-ignition-439.aspx

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dyna-S-Electronic-Ignition-Suzuki-GS550-GS750-GS850-GS1000-GS1100-77-78-79-80-81-/380382026185?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item58908919c9&vxp=mtr#ht_1868wt_1159

Whatever you do, once you get it running, make sure that you check the charging system on your bike. Very often they're charging at too high a voltage (should top ~14.8V), which can damage the electronics, particularly the igniters.

ok guys i worked all day on the bike and here is what i found. When you get mad and tap on the ignitor the bike fires....lol Anyone know where i can find one for a reasonable price?

[CrazyFazy]

does this mount where the old signal was then? It also says you have to buy 3 ohm or greater coils. How can i check my new ones to see if they are ok to use? Also does the wiring get removed from the signal generator to the ignitor and from the ignitor to the coils then? I am assuming this new part would go directly to the coils so i could clean up the old wiring then...is this right? Thanks,,,,eric

[mike_of_bbg]

Yes, it mounts where the old sig gen was. You don't have to remove your old igniter wiring, but you should at least unplug the old igniter. I use the 12V+ lead from the igniter harness to power my coil relay. I know it's not easy to remove the igniter (see my sig ), but I did manage with a ratcheting screwdriver set without removing the airbox.

For non-stock coils, you have to measure your coil primary from lead to lead, and that primary should be between 3 and 5 ohms. It works fine with stock coils. The Dyna "green" coils would be the right aftermarket Dyna ones for the job; although rated at 3 ohms, Dyna does not recommend using the mini coils.

The wiring can't get much simpler: your + coil leads get a switched +12V, as does the red Dyna lead, and the - coil primary leads go to their respective coils.

The only gotcha that seems common with the Dyna installation is that the included rotor plus the included spacer are a bit too tall for the EI bikes, and the rotor will not advance when the crank bolt is tightened down. You can either find a thinner washer to use as a spacer, or sand or machine down the top of the rotor or the spacer between half of one to one mm so that the rotor is free to advance (yet cannot come off of the mechanical advance unit).

does this mount where the old signal was then? It also says you have to buy 3 ohm or greater coils. How can i check my new ones to see if they are ok to use? Also does the wiring get removed from the signal generator to the ignitor and from the ignitor to the coils then? I am assuming this new part would go directly to the coils so i could clean up the old wiring then...is this right? Thanks,,,,eric

[mike_of_bbg]

Some pics for your entertainment:





Wiring, before I added the coil relay:

[CrazyFazy]

mike why are there slots in the plate? My pulse generator didnt have any slots jst holes...is this some sort of adjustment? And where the heck is the points located on this bike...lol Also the one on ebay says it only fits up to a 81 and mine is a 82 although the part numbers are the same...would it still work? Thanks for the help.

[mike_of_bbg]

Well if you're paranoid about an EMP attack I guess you could go ahead and retro-fit some points on there (of course there's still that R/R to worry about). I'm sure it wouldn't be that hard...

Not sure why Dyna put slots in there, except perhaps to accommodate so many models of GS. The DS3-2 is good on all 4-cyl GSes with mechanical advance, whether points or EI, with the following exceptions:

1. Some early points model 550s and 750s used Kokusan ignition (your EI bike might say Kokusan on the igniter but it's no matter - still use DS3-2 - this just applies to early points models) and those require the DS3-1. Speculation from another thread is that the back plate is still the same, actually, but they include a different rotor.

2. 650s are not officially supported. My understanding is that 650E's work just fine with no mods, but the 650G motors require some mods to the back plate to make room for the oil pressure sender.

So basically, yeah, that one plate supports the whole 4-cylinder mechanical advance spectrum. Those bikes don't all use the same sig gen though, so there's likely to be some orientation variance between the models. What I've seen from other 550 owners is that it's almost always timed right near the ends of the rotation.

[mike_of_bbg]

If it's really an 82 GS550LZ then it's going to work. There's one in mine!

My personal opinion is that Dyna stops at 81 in the listing because that's the last year ALL of the GSes were using mechanical advance. In 82 some models got electronic advance. Some engines (not the 550) kept the mechanical advance into 83...

Also the one on ebay says it only fits up to a 81 and mine is a 82 although the part numbers are the same...would it still work? Thanks for the help.

[CrazyFazy]

now i am wondering if my pulse generator is also bad. The site says between 130 to 200 ohms between the two wires on either pickup. i am getting 65.3 ohms from Green/white to black/white......black/white to brown is 65.5 and from green/white to brown is 130.5 According to the specs this sounds like its bad but both sides are pretty consistent. From brown to green/white i am reading thru both pickups and the other way i am reading only thru one.

As for testing the pickups, signal generators, measure the resistance between the two wires on each pickup. You should get somewhere around 130-200 ohms. If the resistance is infinity or less than spec they are shot

this makes it sound like there should be between 130 to 200 ohms between the two wires on the same pickup or am i reading this wrong.....

[mike_of_bbg]

I thought the spec on the 8V 550s was 60-80 ohms per coil and that the later (electronic advance) 16V 550s had the higher impedance. My manuals are not handy for me to look now. Not that sig gens have never gone bad, but it's pretty rare.

[CrazyFazy]

ok the problem was the ignitor all along. Starts but you have to leave the jumper cables hooked up or it shuts off. Ran the bike for a little while and the rectifier back beside the battery got very hot and then started smoking. So is my rectifier bad or possibly my stator? The bike runs very rough could this be because its draining my donor battery? I have one out of my car and just take jumper cables to the leads. The engine is revving very high so i checked the throttle cable and it has slack when the grip is closed so not sure about that either. I think i might have a vacuum leak though at the carb boots because i am almost certain it raised the rpm's when i sprayed ether on it.

[mike_of_bbg]

CrazyFazy, welcome to the ownership of a 30-year-old, neglected motorcycle! This is going to be a particularly important moment for your relationship with it: will you gird your loins and soldier on, or will you bail?

Here's your GSR greeting (BassCliff is taking Lent off from GSR):

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/images/GSR_Greeting.html

Pay PARTICULAR attention to the top 10 issues. You've got several of them.

Yes, your intake boots, or if you're lucky, just the o-rings behind them, are leaking. The boots run about $25 each. You will need to:

1. Clean carbs, replacing o-rings (http://www.cycleorings.com/#BS_Series_O-ring_Kit), as well as maybe pilot jet plugs and float bowl gaskets (these are often re-usable though)
2. Replace intake boot o-rings and examine intake boots for separation of metal/rubber (http://www.cycleorings.com/intake.html)
3. Seal your entire intake system
4. Adjust your valves - they'll be out of adjustment (this IS a neglected motorcycle, after all)
5. Change oil
6. Replace battery
7. Clean ALL electrical connections on the bike
8. Check your petcock for normal operation and replace if necessary (90% probable)
9. Repair the ignition problems you're already seeing (probably Dyna S)

This should get your bike running well, on battery only (disconnect headlight for longer run time and prevention of blowing the main fuse during troubleshooting). Disconnect the R/R and stator, run through the stator papers diagnostics. Replace/rewire stator and R/R as necessary.

Once you're done with that, you're ALMOST ready to ride.

Replace tires
Rebuild brake caliper/master cylinder, replace brake line and pads
Rebuild front forks with new springs, replace shot stock rear shocks

NOW you're ready to ride...

Believe me, I've done all of the above (plus some).

That $100 acquisition cost is going to seem like the very tip of the iceberg.

So, what are you going to do?

[CrazyFazy]

ok went and got another regulator/rectifier and checked it out with a meter and it showed that is was fine. Did the checks on the stator and it showed it was also ok. However when you disconnect the jumper cables from the donor battery it shuts off immediately. The R/R is getting a little warm also....hasnt started smoking yet but has me worried. None of the wires from stator or R/R are going to ground according to meter. Any suggestions?

[tom203]

ok went and got another regulator/rectifier and checked it out with a meter and it showed that is was fine. Did the checks on the stator and it showed it was also ok. However when you disconnect the jumper cables from the donor battery it shuts off immediately. The R/R is getting a little warm also....hasnt started smoking yet but has me worried. None of the wires from stator or R/R are going to ground according to meter. Any suggestions?

Hopefully you have a battery installed and aren't just relying on this donor battery, Did you do the charging system tests that you found in your personal Basscliff welcome, or have you taken another route?

[CrazyFazy]

well i did all the tests so i would think it should be charging.....i disconnected the red wire coming out of the R/R with the bike running and checked it for voltage also and got nothing even though the R/R and the stator checked out fine. Regardless of the donor battery or not shouldnt the bike still run with the stator and the R/R?

I can see alot of gas pooling up in the bottom of the rubber air cleaner boot. I am wondering if perhaps this is gas that is not getting sucked into the engine because of the leaks in the rubber intake boots? I know they need replaced but was just wondering why there would be gas in there.

[mike_of_bbg]

Is your petcock on prime? The needle valves in carbs may not be able to hold back constant pressure of fuel from the tank. The o-rings around the needle seats may also be dried up and allowing fuel past them; they would be replaced with a carb cleaning including all new o-rings. If the petcock is set to ON or RES and fuel continues to flow when the motor is not running, then your petcock is in need of repair or replacement. If there is fuel running down the vacuum line into the #2 carb, your petcock is in need of repair or replacement.

See the links in the list I posted below. One of them is to Robert Barr's page about the intake boot o-rings. If those are leaking (which is very likely), they'll need to be replaced. That you were able to stop a leak with some WD-40 spray says that something there is leaking and pretty badly. After some time the rubber on the intake boots can separate from the steel and that will leak (even with new o-rings) and the boots must be replaced. Leaking fuel sitting on the rubber accelerates this process.

If your R/R is not producing any voltage when connected to your stator with the motor running and the stator passes all the tests, then your R/R is toast. The stock units were not so great; many of us replace them with Shindengen units from old Hondas. There's a list somewhere of compatible R/Rs (I know if you look on BassCliff's site in the "Electrical Odds-n-ends" section there's a list there, but I think there's a more complete list in a post somewhere; forum search is your friend).