Strange turn signal problem - very frustrating!

[mauser]

I've searched for a similar problem to mine and its solution to no avail. I recently purchased a 1982 GS1100G and think I was intentionally duped. I'm new to motorcycles but am learning very quickly, but not quickly enough. To make a long story short, this guy sold me a bike with a bad R/R but made it run long enough to sell it by putting in fuses with higher current ratings (20amps in a 10amp headlight, 20amps in a 15amp main, etc) while wires and connectors melted. I only found out the next day when I was going through a main fuse every minute just to make it home. I quickly learned about R/Rs and stators and replaced both (I discovered the stator was bad after putting in the R/R) as well as several connectors and bulbs and cleaned up some melted wiring. Now it runs like a dream with now running or charging problems.

However, now I discover this problem with the turn signals, which didn't work at all due to all the bulbs being blown: After replacing the bulbs and fixing the wiring on the left rear signal, here's what is going on:

- right front is always on, even when the signal switch is centered or left. It is even on when I disconnect the relay. It does not blink when I push the switch right, just stays lit.
- right rear turns on with the signal switch but does not blink and there is no light when the relay is disconnected like there is in the front. It is not always on like the front is, only when the switch is to the right.
- left front and rear signals work fine and blink. no issues there.
- tried different relays to the same result. I even tried Basscliff's Turn Signal Relay Replacement Procedure and could not get any of the signals to work with a Tridon EP-35 relay. I don't know why. I checked and rechecked my work to no joy.
- there is no difference in ANY of the above issues when I disconnect the TSCU.

Any ideas? Based on my troubleshooting so far, it doesn't seem like it's a ground (right rear lights but doesn't blink and turns off with switch in center), a bad relay (perhaps I have 2 bad relays with the same fault?), or a bad TSCU (no changes whether it's connected or not, or can this mean that it's totally shot? But why would the left side signals work then?)

Please help!!!!

[basketcase]

sounds to me like the positive wire got hot and fused with another positive wire going to the right front signal. i would check the wiring harness and look for melted wires. i would suspect that if it was overcharging so bad you were replacing fuses that often that it was way over current and melted the wires. should be a easy diagnosis when you get a look at the wires.

[cowboyup3371]

When you replaced connectors, did you fully remove all of the tape from the wiring harness and inspect it? Is each light grounded?

[Steve]

I believe your bike has running lights in the front signals, as well. If you have dual-filament bulbs, this is the case.

Follow the wires from the right front signal into the headlight bucket. Swap the to wires going to the light. I believe they are reversed.

.

[850 Combat]

Both fronts should be on all the time that the ignition is on, as they have running lights.

Neither stator nor R/R have any bearing on how the bike runs. They will run fine without them until the battery charge runs out too far. The ignition doesn't care where the electricity comes from.

does "all the time" mean when the ignition is off? or do you mean all the time that the ignition is on?

You might consider downloading a wiring diagram from Bike Cliff's web site.

In the headlight, there are large ring terminals which ground the front headlights to the harness. Make certain that they are there.

I have seen the running light lead connected to the ground by an owner who didn't know it was a running light lead.

[mauser]

Ooops, I forgot to mention that I took apart the turn signal switch. That's probably important since I may have not put it back together correctly. I wasn't aware it was a bunch of loose parts and springs. Fortunately, I have another 1982 GS and dismantled it's switch with the foresight to keep the parts together so I could see how it's put together. What wasn't clear was how the the springs that lie cross-ways fit into the picture. Now it doesn't move back to center position automatically as it did before (self-cancelling signals) but it moves manually. I will take the switch apart again, this time using a plastic bag and taking care to properly install everything using dielectric grease.

As Steve suggested, I swapped the two running light wires to no avail. I do not think they have been reversed.

[mauser]

Checked out the switch. Looks fine and everything moves properly. I will check the wiring. Also, could it be that I have incorrect bulbs since it has running lights, which I wasn't aware of? I'll check that out before tearing the wire harness apart. Maybe check out some other things as well since I do not want to mess with the harness!

[Steve]

What wasn't clear was how the the springs that lie cross-ways fit into the picture. Now it doesn't move back to center position automatically as it did before (self-cancelling signals) but it moves manually.

Don't get too carried away trying to get it to move back to center, it never did.

There are actually FIVE positions on the turn signal switch.
1. Far left, activates the timing cycle for the left signal, button is spring loaded to return to #2 position.
2. Keeps left signal on for the duration of the automatic cycle. Switch stays here unless/until moved manually.
3. Center position cancels the automatic timing cycle from either direction.
4. Keeps right signal on for the duration of the automatic cycle. Switch stays here unless/until moved manually.
5. Far right, activates the timing cycle for the right signal, button is spring loaded to return to #4 position.

.

[LoopGaroo]

I don't know if this will help, but the EDp-35 didn't work on my bike. When I put in an EP-12 everything worked dandy.

[mauser]

Ha! It was the wrong bulb of all things. The PO led me down the trail of the relay, because he thought that was causing the problem when I went to get the bike. Maybe he even had a single filament 23w bulb in, which was why it didn't work in the first place and why I didn't notice it when I pulled it to examine it. Anyway, popping in a 23/8w dual filament bulb did the trick. But hey, my left hand controls got a good cleaning and greasing with dielectric grease in the process.

Thank you all for your help. Your input eventually led me to the solution and it is much appreciated!

Aaron