Where to begin?....noobster

[SeanMora77]

when I bought the new battery I charged it @2 amps for an hour and a half. Havent used the boost since I bought it.

[Killer2600]

I see this all the time and it's quite sad...Your problems originated from starting the idling the bike every so often. At idle most bikes don't charge the battery but instead drain it. After so many cranks and drains without charging it the battery will be too dead to start. Then you try to "fix" it by any method other than charging the battery and things get in a mess.

[Steve]

@ Steve-o, ...

Sorry, don't know that guy. I am "Steve", not "Steve-o".

I take any ribbing with a grain of salt," I probably deserve it".

The salt air in your (slightly regrettable) location should be enough.

Now that you know that GSR exists for your benefit (and a few others, too), sit back, relax, read up on what interests you and don't be afraid to ask questions. You will soon find that it is MUCH cheaper to ask a question, then do something once, than it is to blunder through, trying several things until you stumble upon something that might work.

Yeah, the booster probably fried your charging system. There are some tests that we call "the stator papers" that will help you track down any problems. I doubt you would have to replace the stator because of that mishap, but the Rectifier/Regulator (R/R) is probably gone. Good news is that replacements can be found for less than $40 that are much better than the stock unit.

Carbs should probably be cleaned properly and also be treated to a new set of o-rings. The o-ring set should be accompanied by o-rings for the intake boots and stainless bolts to hold the boots to the engine. All that can be had for less than $25. Unfortunately, the price of Berryman's Carb Cleaner Dip has just gone up at Auto Zone. Used to be about $22, I just saw it for $28. Still a bargain, as it lasts a long time. I am still using what's left in the can I bought about seven years ago. It's not enough to do a carb, but I put small parts in there. (I have since gotten two more cans that I use for carbs.)

Oh, just because the carbs are not original to the bike does not mean that they are wrong. Several of my bikes are wearing carbs that were on another bike when they left Japan over 30 years ago, but they are at least the "right" carbs. Get some pictures of your carbs, we will be able to tell you whether to work on the carbs you have or if you should be shopping for some.

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[mike_of_bbg]

If you have a look here:

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/images/carbspec_float_height.html

You'll find a table with some information about carbs from various GS models. BS32SS carbs were used on quite a few models. They vary mostly in the jetting and spacing. When you tear down the carbs for a complete cleaning, you should also check the markings on the jets to be certain they are the correct ones for your model.

Your bike appears to be an 850GL by the way: L being the "cruiser" model as demonstrated by the leading axle fork, low profile (and smaller) tank, and chromed fenders. Looks like the bars have already been swapped out for Daytonas.

Mr. Posplayer also has posted this "quick test" for the battery and charging system (after test #2 requires the bike to be running). Without a running bike you can only do the static tests of the stator papers, though that's still important testing to do.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?p=1272192#post1272192

[SeanMora77]

@dogma- Did the spark test and all 4 are getting spark.

[jesustheplumber]

@dogma- Did the spark test and all 4 are getting spark.

check the inside of the boots on those plugwires. mine cracked and shorted out. my gs would actually run on three cyl, until you pulled the #4 plug wire off and forced it ta arc to the top of the plug.

but this is advice from a fellow noob so beware

[Dogma]

@dogma- Did the spark test and all 4 are getting spark.

OK. Sounds like it's time to look at fuel delivery. For the record, always take Steve's advice. Very few have worked on as many GS bikes as he has, and probably nobody has helped get as many on the road. It's time to get into those carbs again. They appear to fit the intake boots, so I'm thinking they're the right size. From your description, it was running at least OK, so the jets may be correct for an 850. You can check the jets against published info to be sure once you have the carbs disassembled for dipping and new o-rings.

[SeanMora77]

Absolutely, dismantling everything as we speak... Perhaps a silver lining, I've been cleaning every connection I can see, and I ran through what tests I could without the bike running as described in the stator papers and everything checks out so far. After cleaning the main ground from the battery last night I bumped the start switch and it wanted to fire instantly... Also found a wire that was disconnected right by the starter motor that is bundled with the stator wires. I discovered yesterday that my carb float adjustments were erroneous. Got my fingers crossed! Thanks again

[SeanMora77]

And alas, the green and yellow wire in question was loose at the bullet connector.. The male and female were touching but not plugged in... This wire runs to the starter relay! That should help things a bit. Can anyone tell me how to identify the model number of the Carbs?

[keman]

Looks like Mikuni bs32 CV's to me. Also looks like you are missing the band clamps, could be a real issue with air leaks. If you had fun riding with air leaks like that, you are going to pop one when it runs right.