RR advice - poor charging

[Guest]

Hi folks

I'm starting to try to fix my electrical system.

I'll start with the most obvious symptom, that being that the bike won't hold a charge and I always kick it to start it up (god bless my '79 kick start). When the bike's warm and I've been riding it awhile, I can often get away with using the button to start it up, but once it's sat overnight or sometimes less, pressing the button usually just results in a single "chunk" noise, sometimes a few successively weaker attempts at turning and then nothing


I've used the manuals and done some testing so I know that it's charging low, though it does charge (b/t 12-13v), and the alternator passed the alternator test as described in the manual. I haven't yet tested the regulator, but that seems the likely culprit, and I think the consensus here is that our RR units aren't great to start with.

I was going to buy a new battery to see how that holds up, but since it's charging low I figure it's just a matter of time before that wears out as well.

Thinking now that perhaps I should look into replacing the RR. I'm curious what people recommend. Should I buy one off another GS, or go for something more robust? (I wish I'd bought the Duanage style RR that was up for grabs recently now, but oh well.)

If I oughta look for a new RR, where should I be looking? I see Z1 offers soemthing - anyone been down that route?

Anyway, I know this is somewhat rambling, but that's a reflection of how uncertain I am about how to approach this Any advice is welcome.

Thanks

[tom203]

Hi folks

I'm starting to try to fix my electrical system.

I'll start with the most obvious symptom, that being that the bike won't hold a charge

Anyway, I know this is somewhat rambling, but that's a reflection of how uncertain I am about how to approach this Any advice is welcome.

Thanks

Surely you noticed the HINT to do the charging tests and not just reflect or guess what part is the problem. Follow the guide and fix it. It takes at least 13.2 volts to start charging a 12 volt battery ( you have to overcome its resistance), 14 to 14.5 is ideal. Plently of duaneage style R/R's to choose from on ebay- maybe $20- see the list on Basscliff's for ideas and how to hook them up. You might need a new battery, but charge your existing one up and do the tests.

[tkent02]

Have you cleaned all of those pesky electrical connectors yet?

[spyug]

If you check the archives there is an extensive list compiled by our good friend Matchless. It covers just about every dang R/R out there. In a nutshell, almost anything that came out of a Honda is far superior to the stock GS device. You will want to look for Shindengen as the manufacturer.

The only difference to GS R/rs is that they carry an addition "sense" wire. This wire should be attached to a circuit known to carry full 12 volts ( usually the tail light circuit). I attach mine directly to the positive post on the battery. This sense wire insures that the R/R send sufficient voltage to maintain the 12V at the battery. Other than that they may be slightly larger than stock GSs.

There are more modern types that are better but likely more costly than the standard types.

As the others say, "to check is to know" so do all the tests in the "Papers" and be certain where your problems occur.

Good luck,
spyug

[shwaz]

thanks for all the feedback.

also following this thread about being proactive with R/R and getting a lot from there.

Sounds like my first step should be cleaning all the connections. I'll get on that starting tonight. Are we talking just a stiff wire brush here, or is this baking soda + water like at the battery terminal? Like am I just looking to remove rust or is there something more complex at work here?

re: testing - I have read the stator papers several times. I'm starting to get close to being able to say I understand them. How different are the stator papers than the electrical system tests specified in my clymer/haynes manuals? I'm guessing it's most important to do the tests from the papers since everyone references them constantly - just want confirmation on that.

will start looking for the matchless thread with the list, but if anyone has a link handy i'd appreciate that too. ***edit found***

thankee sai.

[BassCliff]

Hi,

Have a look at my little website. You'll find...

Compatible Stators and R/Rs

Stator Papers
More On The Stator Papers
GS Charging System Health+Quick Test

Fusebox Cleanup

Stator Test

Stator Replacement
Regulator/Rectifier Diode Test

Regulator/Rectifier Replacement
Spark Plug Cap Replacement
How To Repair Your Wiring Harness
Cleaning Your Wiring Harness

...and lots more in the *Electrical Odds and Ends* section.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[shwaz]

Hi,

Have a look at my little website. You'll find...

Compatible Stators and R/Rs

Stator Papers
More On The Stator Papers
GS Charging System Health+Quick Test

Fusebox Cleanup

Stator Test

Stator Replacement
Regulator/Rectifier Diode Test

Regulator/Rectifier Replacement
Spark Plug Cap Replacement
How To Repair Your Wiring Harness
Cleaning Your Wiring Harness

...and lots more in the *Electrical Odds and Ends* section.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

well there you go.

that should keep me busy for a good little while!

thanks a ton

~a

[tom203]

well there you go.

that should keep me busy for a good little while!

thanks a ton

~a

Do the tests, but as an example of available ebay R/R's.....
ebay item # 250948603438 - I'd be real surprised if this one didn't work perfect! $15 plus shipping

[Crazy_Russian]

i just got a brand new honda R/R for $20 with free shipping

[tom203]

i just got a brand new honda R/R for $20 with free shipping

Brand new? as in Chinese clone?

[shwaz]

Do the tests, but as an example of available ebay R/R's.....
ebay item # 250948603438 - I'd be real surprised if this one didn't work perfect! $15 plus shipping

interesting. i was going off matchless' list and searching for shindengens by model number. i see the FT500 from that ebay sale in his list, but it's not specified as one that works with our GS's. Would be nice to get one that cheap though. anyone know of a way to verify whether it will work ahead of time?

there's also this, which is shown in blue on matchless list. $30 shipped, but it's only a 20amp RR. forum approved, or pass?

I guess bottom line is what would you buy? it would be nice to find an affordable one that someone can say, "yes, this will work" and that I won't have to do too much to get it attached. On that note, what does Matchless mean when he says "holes 3mm further apart, ream with a drill bit to fit GS"? Am i drilling into the bottom of the battery box / wherever the RR attaches, or through the RR (doesn't seem helpful)

[shwaz]

this is near my house. 1996 GSXR 650/700 RR. anyone know about newer suzuki RRs?

[Crazy_Russian]

Brand new? as in Chinese clone?

could be, as long as it works batter then a stock unit and lasts longer, i dont care who makes it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/380394773272?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

[tom203]

could be, as long as it works batter then a stock unit and lasts longer, i dont care who makes it.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/380394773272...84.m1439.l2649

Well, you might just care if it was designed for 60 watt scooter system! Hopefully, it will be fine- me, I'd give it a nice pat after a hour ride to make sure the paint didn't boil off it.

[tom203]

this is near my house. 1996 GSXR 650/700 RR. anyone know about newer suzuki RRs?

I'd go for it- likely to be mosfet unit, which is a step up!