Stator & R/R test results and questions

[Guest]

New Question Post 11:

Stator test summary: 1981 GS550L
- one of the legs had resistance, the other two did not
- when running two of the legs had less then 1 volt (.5~) and one had nothing
- at the battery, it would only produce .5-.8 volts more at 5,000 rpm then it would at idle

R/R test (shindengen #SH532-12)
+ lead on sense wire

• red: OL
• green: .024
• yellow: 1.91, 1.71, 1.76

- lead on sense wire

• red: OL
• green: .024
• yellow: OL, OL, OL

- on red output

• yellow: OL, OL, OL
• green: OL
• black: OL

+ on red output

• yellow: OL, OL, OL
• green: OL
• black: OL

+ on green

• yellow: 1.83, 1.64, 1.69
• red: OL
• black: .024

- on green

• yellow: OL, OL, OL
• red: OL
• black: .024

So the stator is definitely bad, it's barely producing any power. It charged some when I was rode it yesterday with the headlight off, (from 12.4V on freshly charged battery to 12.8V) but with the headlight on it was losing power.

I'm not sure of the R/R though, the readings are confusing (and so is the test walkthrough TBH). The readings don't look good, so I'm probably going to have to replace that too.

Also, with a Honda R/R the power output to the harness is supposed to be fused correct? On my bike the PO has it routed to the stock output wire (which is bundled with a white/green and white/red wire that are disconnected). The R/R ground is also attached to the battery negative and has the sense wire routed to the rear tail light switch.

One last thing, how are the ebay stators that go for $90?

[tom203]

"One last thing, how are the ebay stators that go for $90? "

Basscliff is using one as I recall, maybe he will find your post. As to your R/R testing, I'll pass- but duaneage sold lots of these R/R's with no problems. I'll bet the SH-532-12 is fine and just waiting for a functioning stator.

[BigD_83]

If you need a new stator, Bike Bandit (post on here today) has them on sale...$103

[BassCliff]

Hi,

What setting were you using when checking the r/r unit? On the diode setting you should see about .5v in one direction and OL in the other direction, where applicable. Have a look here: Regulator/Rectifier Diode Test. If you're looking at resistance readings (ohms) then the numbers will be different but the diodes will still show OL in only one direction and not the other.

Decent r/r units from eBay are cheap. I'd pick one up for a spare even if I didn't need it right away.

I am currently using a Caltric stator (about $90 from eBay) and it has been there almost a year with no problems. Rick's is still my favorite stator but costs about $140. The Caltric seems to have similar construction. We'll see how long it lasts. Make sure all of the connections and ground in the charging system are clean, clean, clean!

[duaneage]

The RR is probably not bad, those RRs are pretty tough. I think your meter doesn't measure diodes or rectifiers properly, some don't work right measuring those sort of things.

[Toasty]

I just redid the rectifier test, I had it on the wrong setting . All seems well, it tests fine, one of the yellow inputs is a bit lower (.52 vs .55).

I double checked the stator again to make sure, and in the continuity test between the three leads it shows OL on every combination (dead stator). When testing to the ground, two test fine and the last reads 48ohms .

I set the multimeter up for AC volts and put the testing wires in the correct plugs and I get nada. Even at full load I'm not getting ANY current from the stator. Either I'm still doing something wrong or that sucker is deader then dead.

[duaneage]

I think your stator has taken up your GSR name.

[BassCliff]

Hi,

I'll bet it will look something like this:





Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[Toasty]

Im taking a break from my stator install since its really hot today. So here's my findings so far...

When I bought the bike the PO told me he recently installed a new stator, and the left crankcase gasket did look new. At the RR the wires from the stator were the stock Suzuki wires, thats odd. I cracked open the stator cover, and took off the starter cover. Whoever decided to jam that 8mm bolt way in the engine must have been high btw.

Look what I find

Hmmmm, whats under this lump of hardened electrical tape?


This...

Which fried that new stator he put in...

[duaneage]

Yeah, that's not good at all. Lucky for the bike you bought it and are fixing it proper.

[Toasty]

So my stator died again on my way to work. The indicator lights were dimming but was okay on the freeway with the headlight off. When getting off the freeway and using the blinker and tail light it died. I ended up coasting to the side and pushing the last 1/2 mile to work.

Stator results:
Between the legs: OL, 0.9, OL
Ground and legs: OL, 0.3, 0.6

Can't test output at the moment, no juice to run it.



The multimeter at work is different then the one at my house and is giving me weird readings. Either my R/R (shindingen unit) is completely gone or I don't have it set right.
Picture of Multimeter

With it set to 2000 on the ohm section (with the >+ symbol directly underneath) I get:

(+) on sense
- OL like it should

(-) on sense
- red: OL
- green: 1800
- yellow: OL

(-) on red
- yellow: 784, 800, 844
- green: 1851
- sense: OL

(+) on green
- yellow: 794, 842, 841

(-) on green
- yellow: OL

If I run the meter on 200 (buzz) it will quickly flash a number (on the leads where it should have a reading) and then go to OL.

[BassCliff]

Hi,

Your bike will run at least an hour on battery juice if it's properly charged. But that stator needs to be replaced. You might as well pick up a good used r/r unit and replace them both at the same time, if you haven't replaced the r/r already.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[Steve]

R/R test (shindengen #SH532-12)

+ lead on sense wire

• red: OL
• green: .024
• yellow: 1.91, 1.71, 1.76

- lead on sense wire

• red: OL
• green: .024
• yellow: OL, OL, OL

With it set to 2000 on the ohm section (with the >+ symbol directly underneath) I get:

(+) on sense
- OL like it should

(-) on sense
- red: OL
- green: 1800
- yellow: OL

Would you like to save a little bit of time on your next testing go-around?

Don't bother hooking anything up to the sense wire, those tests are meaningless.

.

[duaneage]

So my stator died again on my way to work. The indicator lights were dimming but was okay on the freeway with the headlight off. When getting off the freeway and using the blinker and tail light it died. I ended up coasting to the side and pushing the last 1/2 mile to work.

Stator results:
Between the legs: OL, 0.9, OL
Ground and legs: OL, 0.3, 0.6

Can't test output at the moment, no juice to run it.



The multimeter at work is different then the one at my house and is giving me weird readings. Either my R/R (shindingen unit) is completely gone or I don't have it set right.
Picture of Multimeter

With it set to 2000 on the ohm section (with the >+ symbol directly underneath) I get:

(+) on sense
- OL like it should

(-) on sense
- red: OL
- green: 1800
- yellow: OL

(-) on red
- yellow: 784, 800, 844
- green: 1851
- sense: OL

(+) on green
- yellow: 794, 842, 841

(-) on green
- yellow: OL

If I run the meter on 200 (buzz) it will quickly flash a number (on the leads where it should have a reading) and then go to OL.

Numbers look OK to me. Stators live in an oil bath, and that's a hard environment. A bad RR can damage the insulation further accelerating the death of the stator. Even after doing a RR swap the stator can go bad later.

[Toasty]

The numbers on the r/r look okay? Do you think I should just get another on to be safe?



This is the stator I got from Caltric, it doesnt have any powdercoat on the copper. Im still under warranty but I dunno if its worth sending it back if its gonna fail again. I might save myself some trouble and just get an electrosport/ricks electric one instead. What do you think?