Stator & R/R test results and questions

[BassCliff]

Hi,

I've had a Caltric stator on my bike for over a year now, looks just like that one. It's doing just fine. The only other stator I'd recommend is a Rick's Electrics stator, about $120-$140 depending on where you buy it.

If you want to put it back together and ride it right now, then go ahead and keep your current r/r unit. They are easy enough to replace if you pick one up later.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[Steve]

The numbers on the r/r look okay?

I started to look at them, then got too confused, as there was no apparent order to your tests.

Here are the connections you need to make (with the meter in the diode test, the 2000 with the diode symbol):

Clip the red meter lead to the red R/R wire, touch the black meter lead to each of the yellow wires.
You should see whatever your OL indicator is.

Reverse your connections, clip the black meter lead to the red R/R wire, touch the red meter lead to each of the yellow wires.
You should see a number that will be about .500 to .800 on each of them.

Clip the black meter lead to the black R/R wire, touch the red meter lead to each of the yellow wires.
You should see OL on each one.

Reverse your leads again, clip the black meter lead to the red R/R wire, touch the red meter lead to each of the yellow wires.
You should see about .500 to .800 on each of them.

That is a total of TWELVE meter readings. Should have taken no more than two minutes. Six of them should be OL, the other six should be about .500. If any one of them is not right, your rectifier (the R/ part) is shot. The only way I know to check the regulator (the /R part) is to run the bike and measure the output, but if the rectifier is not right, the regulator can't correct it.

.

[Toasty]

Clip the red meter lead to the red R/R wire, touch the black meter lead to each of the yellow wires.
You should see whatever your OL indicator is.
Meter shows OL

Reverse your connections, clip the black meter lead to the red R/R wire, touch the red meter lead to each of the yellow wires.
You should see a number that will be about .500 to .800 on each of them.
The meter shows 793, 808 and 853

Clip the black meter lead to the black R/R wire, touch the red meter lead to each of the yellow wires.
You should see OL on each one.
The meter shows OL

Reverse your leads again, clip the black meter lead to the red R/R wire, touch the red meter lead to each of the yellow wires.
You should see about .500 to .800 on each of them.
The meter shows 792, 852, 807

The test results are in red. I'm gonna be taking the stator out this weekend, I wonder how it will look it's only got maybe a 1,000 miles on it...

[Steve]

The test results are in red. I'm gonna be taking the stator out this weekend, I wonder how it will look it's only got maybe a 1,000 miles on it...

OK. As I mentioned earlier, though, that only shows that the R/ is good, you won't know about the /R until you have a known-good stator.

With your findings that you reported in the original post, the stator is definitely shot, so replace that, then check your output again.

.

[Normk]

Best to use a test light and 12 volts to test the diodes as a multimeter based ohmmeter or diode test setting may not be reliable. I've tested hundreds of automotive rectifier diodes doing alternator repairs and have wasted enough time by trusting meters. One practical problem is that a diode tester will not indicate the current carrying ability of the diodes. A partially burned diode can test as good with a meter but a load will reveal the deficiency.

As for testing the regulator, the easiest way to test is as Steve suggested, by connecting to a known good stator. I test them here in the same manner as for a controlled field alternator regulator (standard "automotive" type alternator) by applying a controllable voltage to the "sense" stage and noting the regulator's reaction as the voltage is varied.

In the case of an integral VRR, simply apply the voltage between two stator connections with the meter across the VRR output. Raise the voltage until the regulator reaches its set point which will be the maximum voltage which will be shown by the meter. It is straight forward indication of the working set point of the regulator in question at the ambient temperature which is usually all which one needs to know. The temperature can be increased and the regulator's reaction noted if one wishes to determine the correction implemented by the regulator but that usually isn't a concern.

When using a battery to test a constant field alternator such as typical for motorcycles, one needs to know how the regulator controls output or the maximum current from the testing battery must be limited. I prefer to use the high output filament from a1034/1157/2357 bulb in series with the test battery to limit current in case the regulator operates by either grounding or shorting between stator legs. It seems simpler and safer to do this regardless of the regulator as a mistake will cook the regulator and hooking a bulb into the circuit is simple.

Don't know if this is applicable to your testing but just in case....

Likely someone has described the operation of the two sections of one of these VRR units for use in controlling a permanent magnet field alternator and will post a link. IMO & IME it is always best to understand the basic operation of a system when testing as the "Place lead A to position 1...." leaves too many potential problem areas.

Very basically, the rectifier stage combines the AC (alternating current) from the alternator stator into DC (direct current) which is to be used by the bike's electrics. This stage depends on the operation of the one, two, four, six or eight diodes forming the rectifier, depending on the system in question. Each stator lead connects to two diodes so a three lead stator generally uses six diodes. These can be tested by disconnecting the VRR.

The second stage is the voltage regulator stage which limits the maximum output voltage. Note that it does not increase voltage but simply prevents if from going too high. It does this by interfering with the output of DC current by various strategies.

Either rectifier or regulator section can malfunction and needs be considered separately according to its characteristics.

There is much good stuff written on these systems if one cares to read up but not much subsitute for working at diagnostics and repair of working charging systems.

[Reaper0001]

i am having this same problem with my stator can it cause the engine to run like s or do i have more than one problem because my headlight will also go bright then dim and bright i dont know what im doing here?
anyone know where i can get some mounting hardware for a voltmeter for a car i think it might come in handy
also every time i turn the engiene off the red oil light comes on is this factory or a problem???

[tom203]

Do the charging tests to pinpoint the problem- no need to guess! Do you mean your oil light comes on after you turn ignition off?
Lots of voltmeter options- get something that can be waterproofed -analog, digital, LEDs

[Reaper0001]

no it comes on after i shut the bike off but when the key is turned all power shuts off as it should !

[Steve]

... also every time i turn the engiene off the red oil light comes on is this factory or a problem???

no it comes on after i shut the bike off but when the key is turned all power shuts off as it should !

Are you saying that you use the ENGINE STOP switch on the handlebars to kill the engine? Then the oil light comes on? Then you turn the key off?

Sounds perfectly nomal to me. Just look at the facts. The engine stops. There is no oil pressure. The light comes ON. That's what you want it to do, right? Turn the key off, power is removed from the bike.

.

[Reaper0001]

just wanted to know if i should be worried about that or not
i am working on my stater right now installing a new one