On side of the road right now - bike's not starting

[LoopGaroo]

Well I guess I know how I'll be spending my Monday!

[posplayr]

I just tested: There's no spark...

===>so your kill switch is bad; you need to hot wire the bike.

either get a wire and run it from battery to coil (+)
you strip back the end of hot wire wire and wrap it around one of the coil posts. Then reinsert the harness plug as normal. This will power the entire ignition circuit. The other side can goes to (+)accessory on the fuse box.

or

open the switch and use alligator clips on the O to O/W inside of the switch


O=Orange
O/W = Orange /white (stripe)

maybe someone else has a better idea, but I can't think of one.

[LoopGaroo]

I was able to push my bike to a train station, put my wife on the train and ride her TU250x home (fun!).

I'll ride the train out there tomorrow and bring my tool box and multimeter along.

Are there any other possibilities besides a bad kill switch? I'm afraid of putting all my eggs in one basket..

[tom203]

Sure, but kill switch is the most likely culprit,and since you are a serial kill switch user.....get it home and find out.

[robertbarr]

Be sure to let us know how this turns out!

[tom203]

Be sure to let us know how this turns out!

Yes, assuming bike didn't get impounded/groped by TSA.

[LoopGaroo]

A friend towed the bike towed back to my garage last night. It was late but I couldn't help opening up the kill switch housing before I went home. I tested the switch with my multimeter and it seems to be in good working order. I also tried to bypass the switch with some alligator clips with no change in results.

I was also able to pull a spark plug and confrim that there's no spark when jumping the solenoid. I'm going back to the garage tonight, and will bypass the clutch safety switch.

I'm also going to try this:

===>so your kill switch is bad; you need to hot wire the bike.

either get a wire and run it from battery to coil (+)
you strip back the end of hot wire wire and wrap it around one of the coil posts. Then reinsert the harness plug as normal. This will power the entire ignition circuit. The other side can goes to (+)accessory on the fuse box.

[tkent02]

A friend towed the bike towed back to my garage last night. It was late but I couldn't help opening up the kill switch housing before I went home. I tested the switch with my multimeter and it seems to be in good working order. I also tried to bypass the switch with some alligator clips with no change in results.

I was also able to pull a spark plug and confrim that there's no spark when jumping the solenoid. I'm going back to the garage tonight, and will bypass the clutch safety switch.

I'm also going to try this:

You are turning the ignition switch on when you test for spark, yes?

[LoopGaroo]

Yes, I had the key set to ON and pulled the headlight fuse to save the battery while testing...

Could there be a problem in the ignition switch?

[elrico]

May want to consider electrical charging system checks.. using the Stator Papers.Make certain you have a known good shape fully charged battery then try a few restarts,if no go..look everything over,especially connectors.

[LoopGaroo]

It should be known that I replaced the r/r and stator two or three weeks ago and since then the bike had been charging and starting better than ever... then this happened.

So I'm familiar with The Papers, I'll look there again for some enlightenment.

[posplayr]

A friend towed the bike towed back to my garage last night. It was late but I couldn't help opening up the kill switch housing before I went home. I tested the switch with my multimeter and it seems to be in good working order. I also tried to bypass the switch with some alligator clips with no change in results.

I was also able to pull a spark plug and confrim that there's no spark when jumping the solenoid. I'm going back to the garage tonight, and will bypass the clutch safety switch.

I'm also going to try this:

You understand that when the key is on there should be 12V on the Orange coming into the Kill switch and 12V on the Orange/White coming out. The Orange/White is what goes to the coils.

This is very clearly shown in the schematic

When you check the Kill switch or use the alligator clips on the kill switch you should be able to confirm that you are getting 12V to the coils. If not then there is an open somewhere else.

Hot wiring should only be done if you cant get the kill switch to operate

[tom203]

Yes, I had the key set to ON and pulled the headlight fuse to save the battery while testing...

Could there be a problem in the ignition switch?

Way back, you said headlights and warning lights worked, so ignition/key switch would seem ok. After ignition switch, power is fed back to fuse panel, then to ignition fuse, then back up to kill switch, might be wiring, so just bypass it all with a jumper wire.

[sedelen]

A friend towed the bike towed back to my garage last night. It was late but I couldn't help opening up the kill switch housing before I went home. I tested the switch with my multimeter and it seems to be in good working order. I also tried to bypass the switch with some alligator clips with no change in results.

I was also able to pull a spark plug and confrim that there's no spark when jumping the solenoid. I'm going back to the garage tonight, and will bypass the clutch safety switch.

I'm also going to try this:

That clutch safety switch just keeps your engine from turning over, wouldn't affect spark. One of my wires from it disconnected in the headlight, I was still able to push start the bike and get it home.
Now that your home, you can take your time and troubleshoot it right. Sounds like a bad switch (kill switch) or open wire, possibly a bad ground, since you've already checked the fuses. Since your not getting spark from any of your plugs, it sounds like something in that kill switch wiring circuit.

[LoopGaroo]

Thanks Posplayr. I think you can tell that I'm a little unsure about testing these circuits.