Help! 1981 GS250 won't start (bump start only).

[Brendan]

My bike was riding great and all of a sudden it will not start. The starter solenoid makes a click when I press the start button, but the motor does not start. I am still able to bump start the bike while in 2nd gear and it drives great.

Here is what I have done so far:

1) I charged and tested the battery, even had it tested at an auto shop, and it said the battery was good. Lights still work when the key is in the ignition.

2) I tried jump starting from a friend's truck battery and still no start.

3) I tried jumping the terminals on the starter solenoid using a screwdriver, in order to power the starter motor directly, but still nothing. When I tested the starter solenoid while on the bike, it had over 12 V going through it. This leads me to believe that the starter solenoid is OK.

What next? Do I remove the starter motor? If so, is it necessary to remove the cam shaft tensioner in order to remove the motor?

I already removed the solenoid and I'm planning on ordering a new one in the morning, just in case. It's only $13 on oldbikebarn.com. I will also order a manual, for $30. Any suggestions in the meantime would be appreciated, Thanks.

[ikantbreave]

My first suggestion would be to not order from oldbikebarn.com. I haven't heard a good thing about them yet and I think they are actually listed as deadbeats. Ebay is your friend in this, probably even the Parts Wanted. If the solenoid clicks and nothing else is going, it's probably the starter motor. I had the same issue, changed it out and took the old starter motor apart, it was a rusty mess. You may have to remove the cam chain tensioner to take out the starter motor but if you do make sure to lock it down first. Then you can test the starter motor by itself using your battery just to make sure. BTW see if BassCliff has your manual before shelling out $30. http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/

[tom203]

Do any lights dim when you press starter button? make sure the big wire going to motor is not loose.

[Brendan]

My first suggestion would be to not order from oldbikebarn.com. I haven't heard a good thing about them yet and I think they are actually listed as deadbeats. Ebay is your friend in this, probably even the Parts Wanted. If the solenoid clicks and nothing else is going, it's probably the starter motor. I had the same issue, changed it out and took the old starter motor apart, it was a rusty mess. You may have to remove the cam chain tensioner to take out the starter motor but if you do make sure to lock it down first. Then you can test the starter motor by itself using your battery just to make sure. BTW see if BassCliff has your manual before shelling out $30. http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/

Thanks, I will try and take the starter motor out and report back here.
Maybe I will wait until I get the manual so I don't ruin anything.

[pete]

One thing you can try is short the two starter solenoid terminals together to see if that fires the starter motor.

If it does, your solenoid is toast, and I believe you fellas in the US can pick up a tractor starter solenoid pretty cheap.

[Brendan]

Do any lights dim when you press starter button? make sure the big wire going to motor is not loose.

I did not notice, but I will check, thanks. This problem did start after the guy inspecting my bike moved some wires to the side for some reason. But I figured a jump from my friend's truck would have bypassed a loose wiring problem. I chalked it up to coincidence.

[Brendan]

One thing you can try is short the two starter solenoid terminals together to see if that fires the starter motor.

If it does, your solenoid is toast, and I believe you fellas in the US can pick up a tractor starter solenoid pretty cheap.

Yes I tried shorting the two solenoid terminals with a screwdriver, to no avail. Which I guess means it's either the battery or the starter motor. I'm gonna test all three off the bike. Any pointers on what to look for?

[pete]

I did not notice, but I will check, thanks. This problem did start after the guy inspecting my bike moved some wires to the side for some reason. But I figured a jump from my friend's truck would have bypassed a loose wiring problem. I chalked it up to coincidence.

Aaaaah... usually what seems like a coincidence like that is not a coincidence... closely inspect whatever wires he moved.

For the starter to have a chance of getting enough current to turn the motor over, it needs a good battery, but it also needs a good connection to battery positive and negative, so make sure the positive leads from the battery to the solenoid and the solenoid to the starter have got good connections.

Also, make sure that the fat wire connecting one of the crankcase bolts to the frame or battery negative has a good clean connection both ends as that's how the starter grounds.

[Brendan]

Aaaaah... usually what seems like a coincidence like that is not a coincidence... closely inspect whatever wires he moved.

For the starter to have a chance of getting enough current to turn the motor over, it needs a good battery, but it also needs a good connection to battery positive and negative, so make sure the positive leads from the battery to the solenoid and the solenoid to the starter have got good connections.

Also, make sure that the fat wire connecting one of the crankcase bolts to the frame or battery negative has a good clean connection both ends as that's how the starter grounds.

Thanks, I will put the solenoid back on and check tonight. I checked all of the above mentioned connections except for that fat wire.

[Brendan]

Thanks, I will put the solenoid back on and check tonight. I checked all of the above mentioned connections except for that fat wire.

BTW, How can I jump start the starter motor, while on the bike, to make sure it is operational?

[pete]

BTW, How can I jump start the starter motor, while on the bike, to make sure it is operational?

That's what shorting the solenoid terminals should do.

Alternatively, you can put a jumper cable direct from battery positive to the starter motor (being very careful not to brush against anything else of course).

The other thing you can do is to take the spark plugs out to reduce compression and see if the starter turns it over.

If it does, it's likely that the bushes etc. inside need replacing. I believe they're repairable but haven't had to do it myself...

[Brendan]

That's what shorting the solenoid terminals should do.

Alternatively, you can put a jumper cable direct from battery positive to the starter motor (being very careful not to brush against anything else of course).

The other thing you can do is to take the spark plugs out to reduce compression and see if the starter turns it over.

If it does, it's likely that the bushes etc. inside need replacing. I believe they're repairable but haven't had to do it myself...

Ok, so I just shorted the solenoid terminals with a screwdriver and got the starter motor to crank, so I guess that means the battery and the starter motor are good. So I guess the solenoid is shot? Oh and I no longer hear a click when I press the start button.

[pete]

Ok, so I just shorted the solenoid terminals with a screwdriver and got the starter motor to crank, so I guess that means the battery and the starter motor are good. So I guess the solenoid is shot? Oh and I no longer hear a click when I press the start button.

One more check before saying it's shot...

The ground for the starter solenoid is the actual metal mounting bracket, so make sure it is a nice good solid ground.

One of the common good fixes for the GS charging/electrical system is to put as many grounds as possible together on the one spot and make sure that spot also has a wire going directly to battery negative.

One of the starter solenoid mounting bolts is a good choice due to the mounting of the solenoid being its' ground, so you can kill two birds with one stone that way.

[Brendan]

One more check before saying it's shot...

The ground for the starter solenoid is the actual metal mounting bracket, so make sure it is a nice good solid ground.

One of the common good fixes for the GS charging/electrical system is to put as many grounds as possible together on the one spot and make sure that spot also has a wire going directly to battery negative.

One of the starter solenoid mounting bolts is a good choice due to the mounting of the solenoid being its' ground, so you can kill two birds with one stone that way.

Well, I ordered a new solenoid for $20 on E-bay. I do not know anything about wiring, so hopefully the new solenoid works. If it does not, then I will look into this grounding issue you mentioned. Thanks for all the advice.

[pete]

Well, I ordered a new solenoid for $20 on E-bay. I do not know anything about wiring, so hopefully the new solenoid works. If it does not, then I will look into this grounding issue you mentioned. Thanks for all the advice.

Good luck, at least if it's not the solenoid you'll still inevitably have to check the grounding of the bracket when you remove the bolts to take the old one off